Homelite Chainsaws

[undee70ss]

Finally got this SXL 925 running. It had the Walbro WJ carb. But H adjust seems very very rich. I did some searching and found issues with the Tillotson carb but no mention of the Walbro with this same issue. Metering lever is level with carb body. Where else would extra fuel be coming from?

Not sure I understand the question. Do you have the H adjust out more turns than normal to make it run, or do you have the H adjust turned in more than normal and it still runs rich? The Walbro WJ-27 (yours should be a 27) is a governed carb. If the governor is stuck open or leaks, this is where the extra fuel would be coming from.

 

[BroncoRN]

No I have it turned all the way in and it still acts like its rich. But that little blurb above seems to explain it pretty well. I haven't put the saw into any wood as I'm used to at least setting a baseline before I start messing around.

My last 925 had the SDC carb and did not act like this saw at all. I could tune it to burble at WOT, this one however does not act like that. This one sounds rich as soon as you pull trigger to WOT. Perhaps its normal????

 

[JonCraig]

You could easily determine if it's the governor by bypassing it temporarily. Anything to seal off that ball--cut up coke can, whatever. See if it acts normal after that. I've heard of guys bypassing governors altogether w/ nail polish, jbweld, etc. I don't--seems like cheap insurance when it's working right.

 

[BroncoRN]

One thing I did notice was that there were several holes around the outside at base of governor. I put a small wire through to make sure they were clean and I didn't feel any resistance i.e. no ball? I also pushed on the base of the governor and it didn't move. Maybe that's my problem?

 

[JonCraig]

Oh yeah... that governor--the screw part... that should have a ball inside it. The ball acts as a check valve and only gets pushed up (opening the valve) under high rpms, which dumps fuel directly into the carb throat. If you have no ball, it's letting fuel pump straight in all the time, which would make you run pig rich for sure.

If it were mine, I'd definitely try to bypass and see how the saw feels after that.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

you need to look again. the zama manual shows only one gasket and one diaphragm for the pump section. go to zama and get the zama service repair manual. the C1S carb is in the category of "FOR ALL OTHER TYPES". just sayin. did you test the main nozzle (see the aforementioned zama manual)? did you soak the carb (see aforementioned manual)? just sayin.

okay, I looked again. seems I missed seeing the surge diaphragm in the illustration. believe that would be no. 15 in undee70ss' post. sorry, my bad

 

[BroncoRN]

How would you bypass it? Sealing off all the little holes in the sides and bottom?

 

[Car-guy2]

okay, I looked again. seems I missed seeing the surge diaphragm in the illustration. believe that would be no. 15 in undee70ss' post. sorry, my bad

No problem. I just wish I could get it to run right.

330 zama carb
View attachment 519840

Thanks for the clarification. That's similar to the diagram I found on the internet.

 

[Car-guy2]

Most likely the saw is going rich, not lean. The small hole was put there at the factory, be sure it is open and not plugged. It prevents fuel puddling in that area. If its plugged it may explain some of your problems. See TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) 181-014 here. Now why they would put a hole, with not even a filter to prevent whatever entering the crankcase is beyond me. I believe a band aid for poor design.
View attachment 519839

The hole is open and clean. Guess I need to dig deeper into the carb. I haven't pulled the long thin Welch plug yet.

 

[Boomer 87]

I just picked up a homelite super xl 15, it says gear drive, but I've had it all apart I don't see any differences between it and all my super xls. Can someone shed some light on the differences between the two

 

[psuiewalsh]

Did they have the gear drive in the clutch cover like the c series?

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[Boomer 87]

I haven't taken the clutch off but it looks the same as a super xl underneath

 

[67L36Driver]

Did they have the gear drive in the clutch cover like the c series?

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

Yes. Planetary reducer in the clutch cover.

Mo.Jim's XL-15

 

[Boomer 87]

Ok mines been converted back to direct then bc it doesn't have that cover

 

[Car-guy2]

I started working on a C7 that I traded for a couple weeks ago. The saw will pop but never runs more than half a second. I figured carb problems so I ordered a kit for the tillotson. Last night I took the carb down and cleaned and kitted it (although it looked great inside).

Same issue. Pops occasionally but won't run. Spark looks good so I checked compression. I don't fully trust my gauge, but it only shows 100 psi. Is that too low for this saw to run? I know all saws are different, but my Stihl 041 only blows 90 and runs strong and starts on one or two pulls cold. Any thoughts?

 

[BroncoRN]

How are fuel lines and filter? What are mix screws set at?

 

[Boomer 87]

You mite double check your ignition also, I have a homelite zip saw sounds exactly what your talking about it has spark in open air but if you put the plug in and put an inline tester on it it sparks lowly everyone in a awhile, which is indicative of a bad condenser.

 

[BroncoRN]

Yep, or perhaps points need adjusted/cleaned? This 925 I've been working on, the ignition was so dirty it would give a weak spark, cleaned all the crap off and regapped it and she fired right up!

 

[Car-guy2]

How are fuel lines and filter? What are mix screws set at?

Fuel line and filter are new. I've tried several settings on screws, but this saw won't even pop consistently on a prime.

You mite double check your ignition also, I have a homelite zip saw sounds exactly what your talking about it has spark in open air but if you put the plug in and put an inline tester on it it sparks lowly everyone in a awhile, which is indicative of a bad condenser.

Initially I was convinced I had an ignition problem, but with plug out and a tester gapped about .040" hooked to plug wire I get consistent blue spark. I've seen ignition problems before that seemed like a fuel issue. Do you think I might have that here in spite of a good looking spark on a tester? Should I pull it apart and check points and test the condenser? No concerns that it only blow 100 compression?

 

[Boomer 87]

Did u test spark open air or test it in line with the spark plug back in cylinder