Homelite 410 IPL Here
http://www.leonschainsawpartsandrep...melite_410_chainsaw_ipl_17598_revision_2_.pdf
http://www.leonschainsawpartsandrep...melite_410_chainsaw_ipl_17598_revision_2_.pdf
At 5-7 yrs with gas, it really needs new lines filters and a carb kit.
It is auto and with a manual oiler. Pump is right behind the clutch drum. Since you have bar and chain off, check clutch drum also for wear, plus sprocket or rim. Also clutch drum should be able to spin with one finger.Am I correct in assuming this is a manual oilier only? Or is it auto with a manual backup?
Just added info, your saw was built on assembly line 6, on the 126 day of 1983, and was the 112 saw built that day.
Yes. Your saw should have a Walbro WS-21 carb. Its always better to use a more recently manufactured carb kit anyways.View attachment 521429 Will this kit work for my saw? I think its the K10-WS from what I've seen online. My IPL doesnt say that I've found.
Yes. Your saw should have a Walbro WS-21 carb. Its always better to use a more recently manufactured carb kit anyways.
Standard Magneto has reintroduced the blue Prestolite solid state ignitions that are used on the Homelite XL12/SXL saws and the Super EZ series of saws. Supposedly better than the original blue Prestolites which were famous for spark one day and none the next.Had to bake the coil for a couple hours to get enough spark to fire it up. Aside from the typical blue Prestolite issues, it seems to run really well as found.
Make sure the ground strap from the engine to the handle housing is still there. It is right by the clutch cover and handle. With a ohm meter, you should have near zero ohms between where the stop switch is mounted and the engine housing. Originally there was also a red rubber cap on the toggle switch, is yours still there?EDIT: So it runs but when I turn the switch to STOP, it electrocutes me, stays running, then dies about 3-5 seconds later.
Be sure to use a new plug also. Some of that old gas may have already fouled the plug.EDIT 2: Well she was running well, now it doesnt want to start. She'll pop and start to go but then die. Idle, L, and H screws are adjusted per the manual. Carb was cleaned but not disassembled. Looks like a carb kit will be going in.
The early models of the 410 chainsaw were notorious for letting sawdust in the carb box. Since you are already going to have it apart with the boot and carb kit installation, be sure to use some RTV on the carb cover get the 2 gaskets for the air filter assembly. (you can make your own) See picsAwesome, you seem to really know these old Homelite saws. Clutch drum and sprocket looks great, and spins freely. It really doesnt look like the whole saw has a lot of hours. It's just seems to have sat a long time, most of it facing the sun.
Make sure the ground strap from the engine to the handle housing is still there. It is right by the clutch cover and handle. With a ohm meter, you should have near zero ohms between where the stop switch is mounted and the engine housing. Originally there was also a red rubber cap on the toggle switch, is yours still there?
Be sure to use a new plug also. Some of that old gas may have already fouled the plug.
You can use a vacuum cap. Most auto parts stores have them.No rubber cap, I suspect it is long gone, electrical tape instead? I have a carb kit on order and I'll pick up a new plug later today when I get an air filter for a different saw.
.040 is way to wide. Maybe the reason why it wouldn't restartI did find the gap at .040 last night though so I put it to .025.
Engine off. Leads between where the switch is mounted and the engine housing (like the cylinder)My multimeter is broken at the moment otherwise I'd do the test. But I just put the meter on the switch tip? I'll test it if I can find a meter. Do I test it while running or what? Electrical is my Achilles heel, hah!.
You can use a vacuum cap. Most auto parts stores have them.
.040 is way to wide. Maybe the reason why it wouldn't restart
Engine off. Leads between where the switch is mounted and the engine housing (like the cylinder)
Correct. Although it could be the problem most likely it needs the carb kit and a boot. It's probably so lean that it won't stay running.Disconnect the on - off switch at the coil and try it. You can kill it with you thumb over the carb or choke it.
I've come across several bad toggle switches that Homelite used. Some were intermittent problems
Correct. Although it could be the problem most likely it needs the carb kit and a boot. It's probably so lean that it won't stay running.
May also want to check/replace the fuel tank vent. The vent has a duckbill check valve. Most other Homelite saws the duckbill is in the gas cap. On a 410 it is on top of the housing. Usually after 30+ yrs, the valve has turned to goo. If the vent is blocked, air can not get into gas tank as fuel is being used creating negative pressure in gas tank, cutting off fuel supply. A way to test on a 410 is to run saw on its side with the gas cap cracked open. If it stays running, vent is blocked. Any saws I work on I replace the duckbill.I did get it running for about 3 minutes, and it sloooowly idles down and then dies unless you give it throttle. Then it would stay running indefinitely. However it is back to its antics of not wanting to stay running. I think you are right, a new carb kit could be the cure. The intake boot is new. As are all the lines for the fuel and impulse.
May also want to check/replace the fuel tank vent. The vent has a duckbill check valve. Most other Homelite saws the duckbill is in the gas cap. On a 410 it is on top of the housing. Usually after 30+ yrs, the valve has turned to goo. If the vent is blocked, air can not get into gas tank as fuel is being used creating negative pressure in gas tank, cutting off fuel supply. A way to test on a 410 is to run saw on its side with the gas cap cracked open. If it stays running, vent is blocked. Any saws I work on I replace the duckbill.
Enter your email address to join: