Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
- Start date
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You have to pry the bronze filter out, the duckbill is right below it.
Probably late 60's- 71. There is not any real way of decoding the 7 digit serial numbers that I know of.
I just didn't know if someone knew what serial number and year they started and ended with.
chainsawlady
Junior Member
chainsawlady
Junior Member
We sold 14 Homelite Super XL saws from our dealership beginning with 2781294 to 2781317 in Sept. Oct. Nov. 1968. This would give you a close date as to when they were made.
chainsawlady
chainsawlady
Thank you. That was very helpful. That should make it a 1968 or maybe 67 model.
Ginger15
ArboristSite Guru
Is it reusable? You were right, turned to goo. I'll see if my local store has a new duckbill. I also took the carb apart, there was a metal screen below one of the gaskets, it was full of dirt, and the other side of the gasket also was caked in dirt. Sprayed all the orifices with carb cleaner. Kit should be here tomorrow at the soonest.
As long as it's not damaged, yes it is.
Inlet fuel strainer. The carb's last line of defense against dirt.
Most carb repair kits contain a new screen but sometimes not.
Check the integrity of the fuel line. Crap don't get that far unless the filter falls off the tank end of the fuel line.
Ginger15
ArboristSite Guru
It had fallen off but I replaced the fuel line, impulse line, and filter. The entire system is new except for the carb, waiting on the kit.
It has a chip on the side from being pried but it is still intact for the most part
Just to make sure we are talking about the same thing, none of your pics show the bronze filter. On the fuel filter, be sure to reuse that plastic disc. The bottom of a 410's gas tank has raised ridges. The disc helps the fuel filter move side to side when the saw is turned on its side (like for felling cuts). Without it, fuel filter will hang on a ridge and it will quickly run out of gas even though gas is still in tank.
Ginger15
ArboristSite Guru
Correct, I didn't take a photo of the bronze photo. I got that covered. I'll go make sure I re installed the plastic washer today when I go to rebuild the carb. Could the dirty carb be the reason for it not wanting to stay running? Starving for fuel? Would be odd how I could get it to run several times and then it wouldnt want to. In any case I will report back on everything tonight.
Yes. That carb looked real dirty. From sitting for so long, when you first started it, some of that dirt moved to the carb, probably the reason why it ran and then didn't.
Ginger15
ArboristSite Guru
Can't get the saw to pop on full choke. I know its getting fuel because the spark plug was wet after trying to start after to many pulls. I'm stumped. Carb kit went together fine.
Tested for spark? Disconnect the wire going from the module to kill switch at module. Take it out of the equation first.
Ginger15
ArboristSite Guru
Has good spark, disconnected the wire. Found out I had a wrong gasket installed, swapped it, carb gets fuel now, but still wont pop. I've double checked the rest of the gaskets and they all match up. Diaphragm goes against the plate correct? Not the carb?
EDIT: After cranking it a while it finally popped and then started up. After killing it though, it takes like 3 or 4 good pulls to get it started again, but it idles fine now and cuts good. A little slower than I thought for a 68CC saw.
It's probably flooded now. Leave spark plug out and let it dry up. Try tomorrow.
Pump (the one with "flaps") lays on carb. Metering diaphragm (the one that pushes metering lever) is opposite--metering side is carb, gasket, diaphragm, cover.
