I stand corrected!
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
- Start date
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Hi Folks,
Just picked up a Canadian 130VI SL longish ride but only $40 with no bar and chain. Also no clutch cover chain brake. Happily I had the right CB purchased for another saw, 76 but didn't fit. So I'm happy with that coincidence.
This saw is pristine, hardly any paint loss or wear on the bottom. Piston looks new thru the exhaust port. and starts like a champ. Wow tons of compression. the only problem I've found is that the oil tank seems to be leaking.
Just picked up a Canadian 130VI SL longish ride but only $40 with no bar and chain. Also no clutch cover chain brake. Happily I had the right CB purchased for another saw, 76 but didn't fit. So I'm happy with that coincidence.
This saw is pristine, hardly any paint loss or wear on the bottom. Piston looks new thru the exhaust port. and starts like a champ. Wow tons of compression. the only problem I've found is that the oil tank seems to be leaking.
Has anyone found a rattle can paint that matches Homelite Red? My chain brake could use a respray.
That is very nice Lee. Maybe take the starter cover over to Cdn Trash or some other place that caries a pile of auto spy bombs and match it best you can. There seems to be so many different or faded colours of Homelite red, it's hard to match.
Where's the bar oil leaking from?
Car-guy2
ArboristSite Member
Hey all,
I have a blue sxlao that needs a clutch cover. Have only been able to find red ones. It's the original lighter homelite blue, not the special edition "ol' blue" which is darker.
Any leads would be appreciated. Faded, worn, and chipped is fine. It's an original paint saw, just want one that isn't red. Thanks
Leroy
I have a blue sxlao that needs a clutch cover. Have only been able to find red ones. It's the original lighter homelite blue, not the special edition "ol' blue" which is darker.
Any leads would be appreciated. Faded, worn, and chipped is fine. It's an original paint saw, just want one that isn't red. Thanks
Leroy
Cool saw Lee. Don't see that combination everyday.
Any idea what the SL designation on the decal indicates? Brake? I've noticed a pattern in the 76/130's. The 130's seem to all have the black AF covers (unless swapped to out) and the rubber rear grips. The mufflers are all the larger box-shaped ones with the diagonal slits. My 130's also all have the larger 3" 6-shoe clutches as opposed to the S-style. They also all came with full-wrap. Except for the 130VI. Given the style of grip start, I am guessing that has the Prestolite module.
I also see that an outer bar plate is missing. I have a really low hours sxlao with the brake that also came without the outer plate. Coincidence or were they set up that way?
Maybe the leak is from a compression fitting and not the seam? I tried to split one of those and it went south in a hurry. Maybe Red Kote if the seam is leaking.
Cory,
The SL indicates a chain brake. Not sure if they used that designation in the US or not.
Re the oil tank cover; did you have an issue getting the screws out or?
Mine has the "S" clutch and the smaller bar studs with the S spacer. The bar nuts from my 76 won't fit. I did have an outer bar plate in stock. The oil is just coming from running i think. I don't see any oil running anywhere, cap seal is OK. I'm surprised that the little XL1s have a decomp but these don't. I'm sure glad my 923 has one.
For those that have ran both: is there a noticeable difference in power between a XL and a Super 2?
Those screws were a pain. For me at least. I struggled with a friends saw that he had half disassembled. He had missed a couple of screws on the fuel tank and managed to strip a few Phillips heads removing them. The thread locker held well. I FUBAR'd the rest. Perhaps someone had it apart before and used some aggressive locker? I didn't try an impact driver for fear of twisting off some of the longer ones with the torque. Ended up JB-Welding things back together. Oil tank cover proved similar.
Wrong sized bit? Impact driver from the start?
I know I had a leak around one of the screws on the 902 tank. It was tricky to remove. I just don't have much luck with Phillips, it seems. Peter Robertson must have been laughing at me from his grave.
Interesting. Mine all have 5/16 studs. 76/130/130VI/XL-1 etc all run the same nuts for me. There are two different bars on mine though. The early mount similar to the 095 - no spacers seems to be on the saws that are earlier than '77. Everything later has the UXL with spacers. Poulan must have taken a shine to those large homelite mounts as well. I don't have a 3400-4000 that came with the 176. All UXL with spacers.
The compression on the 76/130 with a gasket delete is impressive. They are such a good cutting saw when put to task in the bigger wood. Balance, ergonomics, torque, mass, speed. Classic sleeper muscle saw. I dumpster dive for them religiously.
I have 3 76 and now the 130. I've only used one of the 76s in anger and was surprised at how it compared to a modern saw. It is a little noisier for sure but pretty smooth to operate despite not having AV. I'm sure these are great firewood saws.
They definitely are a winner. I've used my beater 76 for firewood for a couple of years now. Nice and light and it vibrates the least of any rigid mount saw I have. I don't think the AV versions improve on the vibration at all.
I pulled a fuel tank apart on a 900 series saw and as soon as the Phillips screw started to wallow out I tapped a Roberton (I think the green handle #1) into the screw head and they all came out easily. Messed up more than half the screw heads and replaced them all with Allen head cap screws.
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
Those homelite screws are a 3 sided self tapping type with threadlocker and are basically there to piss you off I've found. I hate them and have had to drill out several. Your best bet is to get as many out as you can, then drill the heads off the rest, pop the cases apart and then use vice grips and heat to get the remaining ones out. Don't re-use them, just get new machine screws.
So true but better than the glued together cases.
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
^ yes, very true, I haven't had the pleasure of dealing with one of those yet though. Also why they went with Phillips is beyond me, Robertson or allen is the only choice in my mind for something like that, unless you never want it to be taken apart.
I figured they changed from slot to Phillips for power tool assembly. They didn't have the choice of Robertson as he refused to let that go to the US. Allen head cap screws cost more. Torx and Allen head seem to be the norm now.
