Homelite Chainsaws

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buzzsawyer-i think you're right,there was no fuel line left, just a stub of auto type fuel line on the fitting inside the tank that crumbled when i poked it. the rest was the 'icing' on the layers at the bottom of the tank. the duckbill was the same melted goo.
got the carb rebuilt. waiting for some sand to dry so i can finish blast the tank. made a gasket, what would be a good sealer ? i have yamabond or some permatex type 2 ?
 
I went through my garage sorting through my bars. I'm not sure if some of these are even worth packing up to ship someone.


Does this look like a Homelite bar? It's a 21" bar and .063 guage.

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Is this bar worth anything? It's 21" .063 also. A guy could probably use acid to clean up the rust and maybe save the stenciling.

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I've also got these brush bow bars for a Homelite. They look to be a 24" bar with .063 guage.

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C-71

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tank blasted ,gasketed, sealed and back on saw. carb kit in and fuel lines on. will try to fire it tomorrow, letting the yamabond set overnight.
i made the tank gasket by sraypainting the sealing surface and then pressing it on the gasket material, printing the pattern to be cut out. a leather punch/wheel really came in handy there.
 
a leather punch/wheel really came in handy there.
I've seen so many of those at yard sales for $1 but never bought one.
I'll be buying the next one I come across. Sure beats chucking up a bit in the drill.
Thanks.
 
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tank blasted ,gasketed, sealed and back on saw. carb kit in and fuel lines on. will try to fire it tomorrow, letting the yamabond set overnight.
i made the tank gasket by sraypainting the sealing surface and then pressing it on the gasket material, printing the pattern to be cut out. a leather punch/wheel really came in handy there.

Looks great so far.
For future reference, You might find it easier
to install the intake manifold on the carb then
install them as a unit. Just a thought.


Lee
 
I've seen so many of those at yard sales for $1 but never bought one.
I'll be buying the next one I come across. Sure beats chucking up a bit in the drill.
Thanks.

Maybe a little off the subject but if you have an old steel golf club shaft, you can make a assorted set of gasket punches. Just cut off square at the diameters you want and file sharp from the inside. Fit a wooden dowel over the other end and tap gently. I've made wood carving tools from the shafts and they hold a decent edge.
 
lee & buzz- thanks for the tip, it was my first go at one of these and i was going by my experience with my 795 where it does come off that way. don't know why i assume they allow room for these things to come apart, did have to wiggle it around just so to get everything on and slide it on. lol.
brian-i sort of couldn't avoid the red thing, not for $20 anyway. i have plenty of yellow things ,ie 797,795,2/1-71's,cp-55, and even a blue 795 based concrete cut off saw.
 
brian-i sort of couldn't avoid the red thing, not for $20 anyway.

I was just kidding, I just noticed the little ankle biter back there and I now have two of them and they have sort of become a joke between me and dad...so I couldn't resist.

:drool: I wish I had a C-71 :drool:
 
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i wasn't kidding about the tar.took the tank cover off and it was worse than i thought, more like 5/8" of stuff on the bottom. the pic says it all. don't really know what it is, there was stinky fuel on top of it to boot. thats a quarter stuck in it to the left of the filter. took the tank off the saw as it looked easy. ground a screwdriver to fit the slotted roundhead cover screws, they came out easy, no corrosion anywhere.

cleaned out the grease i put in the starter after reading your posts on that subject. thanks all for your suggestions.
once i get the rest of the tank clean its onto the carb.

One of my 1050's had a black rubber like coating on the inside of the tank. I was having a hard time pulling the tank cover off, and finally used a small pick to get a gap started. As I pulled the tank apart you could see the rubber stretching apart, I poked a hole in it and then it tore apart easy.

When we had these saws in use we had one guy that would set the tip of the bar on a log and then pull the trigger. Sometimes the chain would grip on the log and not start spinning, and snatch the saw up into the log. This guy busted a couple tanks on saws. I was thinking the saw shop may have used some kind of tank sealer when the put the new front half on. But, the surface of the coating was very even and quite thick and looked like it may have been factory. It didn't melt or look thin and streaked like yours. The fuel line on that saw was melted and looked like a little black super ball in the bottom of the tank, and it did NOT stick to the rubber like coating.

All that being said, the saw with the coated tank is perfect inside, the saw with the non coated tank has pitting and corrosion at the bottom that is almost all the way through the tank. I'm thinking of building it up with JB Weld so it won't corrode through, Joe.
 
xl-101

Anyone know what size bolts I need to pull the flywheel off this xl 101? I am thinking it might be 12-24 not sure.

Anyone have a repair manual for one?
 
Maybe a little off the subject but if you have an old steel golf club shaft, you can make a assorted set of gasket punches. Just cut off square at the diameters you want and file sharp from the inside. Fit a wooden dowel over the other end and tap gently. I've made wood carving tools from the shafts and they hold a decent edge.

you can make the same with copper piping
 
I can not find a UT 101394 number, but the number UT 10139 is a 1050 and the number10139a is a 1050 Super. Tom
I have no clue what is it, I need to look at the other 1050 Super and see what it says. Thing sure does cut good. And is loud(er) without the baffle in the muffler :)
 
I am hoping someone could help me I just did something stupid and started my c52 but forgot to put on the clutch drum---well I don't have ant clutch shoos anymore could anyone help me out with some pleas
 

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