Are there any check valves on this 330? The diaphragm alone won't move oil. Doesn't take much to make a check valve non-functional.
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
- Start date
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I'm going through the same with a 330. I've had it apart 4 times.
If there is a check valve I don't know where it is.
I've tried everything possible. New lines, lighter oil, checked all passages etc.
I have a new diaphragm on order.
Clint.
The 360 is on my watch list.
I just like the looks of one.
Never had one in my hands.
Don't see any for sale.
Clint
Very good.I have 2 really nice ones that I've restored.
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I bought 2 junkers and made one that starts good and runs good.
I have a 360 to let go. Did seals and the boot in it years ago, ran it once and parked it. Moved on to bigger and better things. It has been collecting dust for quite some time. Send a PM if you want more info.
Should be a check valve at the top front of the tank in the air filter compartment. Part number looks like it's just a pink duckbill held in place by what they call a 'filter' which is probably one of those sintered brass plugs.
You can snag the IPL on Leon's site. https://www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/parts-diagrams.html
Many thanks. I'm going to check it now.
I'll be back.
Yes it is sintered brass. Getting it out is almost impossible without destroying it.
That'll probably just be the tank vent. Leave the cap off while testing the oiler to rule it out. They are near impossible to get out without destroying. Usually you have to drill it and thread a wood screw in to remove.
Make a small notch next to the plug like the fuel caps have and pop it out with a pic. May also be able to pop it out from the inside with a piece of coat hanger and little luck. And since that pump is pulse driven, can't you test it by just pumping some pressure into the pulse port?
I have a couple 330 project saws, but not handy enough to be of much help.
I have a couple 330 project saws, but not handy enough to be of much help.
I found the brass plug and duck bill online. I will wait until I get the new diaphragm before I go any further.
Many thanks for you help.
CB, I'm getting a little off topic for a second. Did you by a Pioneer 700 D from me about ten years ago? I bought a 700 today.
OK, back on topic. With the 700 I got an XL850 and an Echo 750.
sawnami
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I think I've got a NOS in the package. I would have to check to make sure that age hasn't affected it.While looking for a NEW oiler diaphragm for a 330. NOS doesn't mean New Old Stock anymore. It means USED.
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While we're still on the subject of oil pump diaphragms, I just picked up a beautiful early version Super 2 that runs like a top but isn't oiling. I'm currently at the pump diaphragm that essentially looks new, but seems pretty stiff as diaphragms usually go. Just wondering how firm they're actually supposed be and what actually drives them..., a cam lobe on the crank, or just case pulses.
I understand these diaphragms are NLA. Anyone know if an ATF soak is effective at restoring a bit of pliability?
Did some searching and would appear to have a couple options including bypassing the pump completely. Think I'll soak the diaphragm awhile to see if that helps first.
Thanks, but I ordered one from Leon last night.
I've never restored a saw. I like them in there "as found" condition. But I really like the red and green saws. Has anyone ever found a way to coat one of the green handle bars? Now that I have the XL850 I might try a total restoration. I think I have a NOS chrome muffler I got for my XL 700. Red, green, a little black and white, with a chrome muffler, makes a pretty saw.
Drptrch
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$25 dollar pick-up w/24” Windsor bar
Fired right up
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