Homelite Chainsaws

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I just got a LRB piston for one that I've yet to inspect. One of the few LRB items I've heard good reports about so I thought I'd give one a try on a John Deere Model 17 which is a Remington PL4 which is a clone of a manual oiler XL but with the 1 13/16's top end. Clear as mud?
 
Too bad. Cylinder may still be salvageable. With proper care they run almost forever. I've had like five of them and never saw damage like that.
Thanks.
Yes, hopefully it's just the piston. The exhaust port was closed off by 10 to 15% of carbon.
The cylinder wall opposite the exhaust port looked surprisingly well. Maybe I'll get lucky.
Clint
 
That piston looks to be all carbon scoring from running way too much oil or running way too rich or both -- which your description of the exhaust port pretty much confirms.. That bodes well for the cylinder itself which may just need a basic Scotch-Brite cleaning (if that).

FWIW, I got the piston for the John Deere/PL4/SXL yesterday and looks pretty nice. Turns out I ended up ordering it from Sawzilla instead of LRB. Was still thinking LRB in my last post. $35 with shipping. Looks to be a decent solution at a fair price and worth considering. I believe they carry the 1 3/4" version also.
 
That piston looks to be all carbon scoring from running way too much oil or running way too rich or both -- which your description of the exhaust port pretty much confirms.. That bodes well for the cylinder itself which may just need a basic Scotch-Brite cleaning (if that).

FWIW, I got the piston for the John Deere/PL4/SXL yesterday and looks pretty nice. Turns out I ended up ordering it from Sawzilla instead of LRB. Was still thinking LRB in my last post. $35 with shipping. Looks to be a decent solution at a fair price and worth considering. I believe they carry the 1 3/4" version also.
I hope you are right. It was way to rich when I got it. The exterior chamber of the muffler was dry and white if that's another clue.
The saw getting hot from the jug fins being plugged couldn't have help.
 
My cheap plastic 200 model (Super 2 type) has finally worn out its crimped in brass rope grommet.

It’s not shown separately on the IPL, so has anyone done a workaround using a bushing from another saw?

The hole looks like it would be 7/16” diameter & the plastic thickness where it mounts is about 3/8” thick. Won’t know exact dimensions until I cut it & pull it out.

The clipped in Homelite 240/245 rope bushing looks like it may work, but don’t know the OD of it.

Suggestions? The Stihl steel crimp in rope guide is way too big.
 
The clipped in Homelite 240/245 rope bushing looks like it may work, but don’t know the OD of it.
I just measured one on a 240 the best I could and it looks to be the same measurements as you describe from your 200. I was hoping for a 'clipped in' bushing to actually remove and measure, but it was crimped.
 
Picked up a Homelite 54 (340 in the usa) pretty clean, good bar and chain as well just $30 Kasucistan. Only problem I see so far is the sprocket worn out but I have a part saw so hopefully can get a sprocket from that one as they are a little special. They drive the oil pump.
 
I just measured one on a 240 the best I could and it looks to be the same measurements as you describe from your 200. I was hoping for a 'clipped in' bushing to actually remove and measure, but it was crimped.
Thanks for doing that! I just ordered one, part number A-97796.

I also was told that the 7/16” diameter size brass air vent used in marching & band drums will work, and daymed if they weren’t kidding me! You can kind of roll crimp them in with a ball bearing, once cut off to the proper length.

You can also get them in aluminum & threaded on the OD, if you have room for the backer nut. That’s frickin’ full serviceability!
751C6274-55A9-4CD5-A037-8C6B6B2ECF8C.jpeg
 
Working on a Super mini and having trouble disconnecting the throttle rod to remove the carb for service. No matter how I hold my mouth it wont come out.

This may be too late ....but I find that carb removal and installation on those darn saws is easier if you open the rear handle and disconnect the throttle rod completely.
 
Traded a good running (but not pretty) Early Jred 630 for this. It does not run, but that will change soon. Has monster compression as well. Been a while since I had a 925. Might actually keep it, I've regretted every 925 I sold or traded off in the past, and this one is clean. View attachment 867157
Hey good for you! That one doesn't look to bad, pretty nice original starter handle and grip.
I did like to put my hands on one for a comparison to the Promac800 and poulan 5200.
 
Should run right with a 5200. I use to run one for firewood. Fun saws. The lack of AV gets to ya after your use to the newer ones.
Cool good to know , I'll probably put my feelers out for one after the holidays and if shipping ever gets normal again?
Isn't there several 80cc homelites, just different nomenclature ?
 
Cool good to know , I'll probably put my feelers out for one after the holidays and if shipping ever gets normal again?
Isn't there several 80cc homelites, just different nomenclature ?
Yep. The XL-700 series and 900 series. There's a ton of different models but are all very similar. I know they started making them in the late 60s (700 series) then the 900 series came out in the early to mid 70s. I belive they made them up until the early to mid 80s. All ranging from 77cc to 82cc. They made some green and red ones too that are extremely rare and bring top dollar. I have a beat up Blue XL-700 I need to fix one day.
 

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