I've gotten to the point on these old saws to leave no stone unturned and treat them all as rebuilds. Spend too much time chasing your tail.
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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I've gotten to the point on these old saws to leave no stone unturned and treat them all as rebuilds. Spend too much time chasing your tail.
My Dad gave me this XL Automatic a few years ago. I run it once in a while. Not a bad saw at all.
I like all of the red green Homelite saws. Looks great
Thanks. The green has held up well but the red is a bit faded. Must have looked real sharp new.
Thanks to a neighbor I now have two of those XL automatics. I guess I can use them to decorate the shop..
Hi Acornhill. I have been on this site for awhile now & I have been searching for info & a repair manual for a Homlite I was just given, but cannot seem to find much of anything useful about it & I just found a link to this posting by you from another web page with Homelite Images on it. I have posted here before & got an IPL from Ray Benson on here, but can't find much else. My Model does not seem to exist anyplace I have been to, but looks IDENTICAL to this PS33 you have posted here. Does your 33 have a chain brake, or is this a FIXED hand guard? Mine is Factory Labeled as a Z3300 and a UT 10809. Not sure right now if it has a 16 or 18" bar & chain on it, but except for the nose guard on your blade and the label number on your PS33, it does look IDENTICAL to my Z3300 & mine has the fixed hand guard NOT a working chain brake. Hoping you can help me out here a bit. I have posted here twice already: https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/homelite-service-and-ipl-manuals.361714/ & https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/still-looking-for-info-for-a-1998-z3300-ut-10809.361797/ I just now got a notification of a reply to my second posting here. Thanks in advance.Here we have a 1998 PS33. brand new
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The PS33 and Z3300 are both in this manual, it's the only service manual I have seen for the saws.
Ray, THANK YOU AGAIN! You always seem to come thru!
Greetings Homelite guys, I need some help.
I've seen a few posts on removing the brass inserts on the other caps, but I'm stumped on how I can remove these ones. Usually the brass is right where you can hook and grab it, but not these. They're set in way too far and I can't get an angle to grab them. Any ideas?
Thanks.
M
I've seen a few posts on removing the brass inserts on the other caps, but I'm stumped on how I can remove these ones. Usually the brass is right where you can hook and grab it, but not these. They're set in way too far and I can't get an angle to grab them. Any ideas?
Thanks.
M
CTH-SXL
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I use a sharp pick inserted in the small notch on the lower part of the caps and pry them out . Be in a clean work area because sometimes
they shoot out !
Charles
I assume you're talking about the sintered brass filters over duckbill vents for fuel caps and the tanks. Sometimes all you can do is drill a small hole in brass and pry/pick/screw them out that way.
If you can't find a replacement clutch drum for your homelite XL1, xl76 or other homelite that uses a similar 2-7/8 in OD clutch drum, the one from a Husqvarna 50 to 55 will work. You will have to modify the shaft sleeve that usually comes on the Homelites to run the Husqvarna half inch bearing. A lathe will be needed to turn down the outside to fit It.
Dimensions are almost identical between the drums, the Husqvarna one may have a shoulder on the inside like the one pictured here, and you will have to run a slightly thinner spacer washer.
You can see how close they are in the pictures. The S style clutch is placed in the Husqvarna drum.
Update: Just did this conversion on my xl-76 using a drum from a 50 Husqvarna. I could not use the old shaft sleeve as it was too hard for the lathe bits. Made up another one out of tool steel. The clutch engages perfectly, and the chain transit is very smooth with the new 3/8 rim sprocket insert. It would probably be easiest to make a shaft adapter out of 1/2" thin wall steel tubing, the dimensions both inside and out are very close to what you need and would require very little turning down.
Dimensions are almost identical between the drums, the Husqvarna one may have a shoulder on the inside like the one pictured here, and you will have to run a slightly thinner spacer washer.
You can see how close they are in the pictures. The S style clutch is placed in the Husqvarna drum.
Update: Just did this conversion on my xl-76 using a drum from a 50 Husqvarna. I could not use the old shaft sleeve as it was too hard for the lathe bits. Made up another one out of tool steel. The clutch engages perfectly, and the chain transit is very smooth with the new 3/8 rim sprocket insert. It would probably be easiest to make a shaft adapter out of 1/2" thin wall steel tubing, the dimensions both inside and out are very close to what you need and would require very little turning down.
For anyone who's interested,or in need of parts,I just bought a pick up truckload of Homelite saw,trimmer,generator,& water pump parts from Bob Johnson last Sat.(8/13).It'll probably take me the better part of the winter to inventory them properly as half of the boxes they're in (35 boxes) aren't numbered & the parts aren't in numerical order.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Unfortunately, I wasn't able to remove them.
I drilled a small hole, bent the pick and still it wouldn't budge. I ended up butchering the brass.
At this point, I think I'll just end up destroying the whole cap trying to remove the sintered inserts.
I think I'll put this one on the back burner for now, and come back to it a bit later.
Thanks for the ideas guys.
M
Unfortunately, I wasn't able to remove them.
I drilled a small hole, bent the pick and still it wouldn't budge. I ended up butchering the brass.
At this point, I think I'll just end up destroying the whole cap trying to remove the sintered inserts.
I think I'll put this one on the back burner for now, and come back to it a bit later.
Thanks for the ideas guys.
M
Thanks for the suggestions.
Unfortunately, I wasn't able to remove them.
I drilled a small hole, bent the pick and still it wouldn't budge. I ended up butchering the brass.
At this point, I think I'll just end up destroying the whole cap trying to remove the sintered inserts.
I think I'll put this one on the back burner for now, and come back to it a bit later.
Thanks for the ideas guys.
M
Maybe you can wind in a small screw, pull it that way.
The plug is pretty porous. Some WD or PB solvent may loosen things up around it enough for an easier removal by whatever means. You can find replacements if you need to destroy it getting it out. Best and cheapest source is usually another old cap.
I thought the same thing about using some kind of lubricant, and it still didn't work. Maybe I'll try the screw method and see what happens.
If I can't make any progress, I'll go back to the older caps. I just liked these caps a bit better than the older ones since they were easier to grab.
But I will keep a look out for another cap.
Thanks guys.
M
If I can't make any progress, I'll go back to the older caps. I just liked these caps a bit better than the older ones since they were easier to grab.
But I will keep a look out for another cap.
Thanks guys.
M
Super clean 360 I picked up last year.
Intake boot was hashed so I replaced that.
Did crank seals
Figured I’d share
Intake boot was hashed so I replaced that.
Did crank seals
Figured I’d share
