1020 is an outboard clutch, 6-spline Tilly equipped machine as I recall, I'm not 100% sure on late 1050's but I'm pretty sure the early ones were the same way.
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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Yeah my Super 1050A is an out board clutch.
I'm pretty sure that the cylinders of the big frame homelite saws can be swapped but the 6 cube saw have a longer stroke. That being the case someone could have swapped cranks also?
I'm pretty sure that the cylinders of the big frame homelite saws can be swapped but the 6 cube saw have a longer stroke. That being the case someone could have swapped cranks also?
I will pull the clutch cover of my other 1020? saw and see if they are the same. At least the piston looked pristine. Any differences in ignitions?
That clutch cover is odd. I did not see one picture online that matched it. The ring around the muffler is what is different.
I've seen those covers on the xp1000s. Scan some of the IPLs. That said, the saw in question has the bolt hole in the side of the airbox corresponding to the later 1020/1050 exhaust guards that always turn up missing.
Ah! So the clutch cover is probably not the correct one for the model.
Makes sense.
Makes sense.
The same IPL also shows that fancy exhaust cover on the 1000. Better measure the bore and go from there.
Here are both of my saws. Slight differences
I bought a C72 back just over a month ago on Feebay.It looked to be in very good condition.I received the saw & went through it rather quickly due to being very busy with splitting.It didn't have spark which didn't really surprise me.I finally got around to working on it a couple of days ago.The points looked like new,so I just cleaned them up with emery cloth a bit & put in a NOS condenser that I got from Bob J.Usually he checks all the condensers he sells to make sure they're not duds,this one he didn't check & it turned out to be a dud.I had to put new fuel lines in it,the line in the tank was broken off in the tank.I pull the handle assembly,that way I can give the saw a good cleaning.I was going to get a new condenser from LRB,but it comes with points I don't need.I thought about chipping it,but therer's really no good place to put a chip in the saw.I did find a seller on Feebay who claims to have new condensers,not NOS at a cost of $15.99 + free shipping.I'm waiting to hear back from him.Once I get it running again (I did have it running for less than a minute when the condenser pooped out) & get a bar & chain on it I'll post some pics.Almost forgot,right after I put the points & condenser back in I pulled it over twice & the rope was in my hand.I had to rewind the recoil,Lol.I also put a throttle lock in.
What is the screw on the clutch side, just behind the top handle?
One of mine has that, the other does not
I believe that is a port plug for the automatic oiler.
Clutch Super 1050A
Mine has the later SDC cube carburetor.
Recoil with stainless mesh cover.
Air box mount for muffler cover.
Sometimes I do stupid stuf because I'm in a hurry (as I suppose we all dfo from time to time).I thought the condenser I got from Bob J.was defective,but while working on a couple of other Homies today (XL & XL-102) I retraced my steps on the C72 & remembered that I forgot to tighten the nut that holds the condenser wire on the points post.After I was done greasing up the clutch bearing I popped the flywheel again & tightened up that nut.After I got the saw all back together again it fired right up & after a carb adjustment it runs great now.
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I picked up a C51 a few days ago for what I thought was a good price - $60.I got it today & wasn't overly impressed with it.The seller said it had "good compression".When I tested the compression it came in at 95-100 psi.It has no spark for now,I'm getting a new condenser by Fri.I pulled the points out & cleaned them up & still have no spark.This saw was probably in the topp
10 for being the filthiest saw I've ever cleaned.There was caked on crud under every cover.I'm thinking it's possible that if I get the saw to fire & run a bit the compression may come up a bit more,but I already found a set of rings & a cylinder gasket for under $25 for them both.The fuel tank has some corrosion & I'm going to try Goof Off & see how that turns out.I do have a tank here that came off a C5,I just have to locate it.I'll get some pics of the "dirty dog" on here soon.
10 for being the filthiest saw I've ever cleaned.There was caked on crud under every cover.I'm thinking it's possible that if I get the saw to fire & run a bit the compression may come up a bit more,but I already found a set of rings & a cylinder gasket for under $25 for them both.The fuel tank has some corrosion & I'm going to try Goof Off & see how that turns out.I do have a tank here that came off a C5,I just have to locate it.I'll get some pics of the "dirty dog" on here soon.
Update on the C51 - I pulled the throttle handle today to clean on the underside & clean the cylinder fins the best I could.Next I pulled the fuel tank cover to see the extent of the corrosion.I did some scraping of blackened residue.When it dried it turned white which I immediately recognized as mag rot.I scraped & sanded till I got about 98% of it out.Then I remembered a lubricant thgat a member on HoH told us about a fewe yrs.agho called Gibbs.It's supposed to have corrosion inhibitor qualities,so I sprayed down the tank cover & the tank that I did the same thing to after I pulled that off the saw.It looks pretty good compared to what it looked like originally.I'll put that back on the saw tomorrow while I'm waiting for the condenser to arrive.I hope to have it pop or possibly running by Sat.
Yesterday I pulled the clutch drum for cleaning behind & around the clutch & lube the bearing.After that was done I put the throttle handle back on with the questionable rebuilt carb,& then I put the new condenser in.The saw wouldn't pull any fuel,but it'd run on a prime.The carb wouldn't hold pressure that well,so I pulled it off & put a carb on that IO took off a C9.Wouldn't ya know that I'd have to use a longer fuel line because the fuel inlet on the carb was now on the other side of the carb.No biggie.I got the saw to fire up,but I just can't get it tuned properly.This leads me to believe that it's in need of new crank seals.Pics to come.
I have a Homelite XL-100 circular saw that the clutch is slipping badly. Looking for clutch parts.
- clutch shoes - 3 ea - A-59123
- clutch spider - 1 ea - 59125
- clutch spring - 1 ea - 55123-C
- gear and drum - 1 ea - A-59212
- needle bearing - 1 ea - 74121
thanks much, jerry
- clutch shoes - 3 ea - A-59123
- clutch spider - 1 ea - 59125
- clutch spring - 1 ea - 55123-C
- gear and drum - 1 ea - A-59212
- needle bearing - 1 ea - 74121
thanks much, jerry
Back about a month ago I picked up an XL-102 for what I thought was a decent price - $57.I got the saw & went through it briefly & didn't really have much hope for it.When I pulled it over the rings were so dry on the cylinder that it squealed.I quickly shot penetrating fluid into the cylinder & pulled it over & then shopt more into it.It quieted down considerably & later on I gave it a shot of fuel & pulled it over & it fired! I was amazed it even had spark.The fuel tank was another story,the fuel line had turned to black goo & dissolved in the fuel & left a residue all over the inside of the tank.I have a friend who suggested using Goof Off graffiti remover.I ordered a gal.on Home Depot.com & put about a cup of it in the tank & swished it around.The tank was like new in a matter of minutes.Next I pulled the carb for a rebuild & installed new grommets & a fuel line.I put the rebuilt carb in along with some fuel & had the saw running albeit briefly.The condenser decided to crap out on me.Off to eBay to buy a new condenser (not generally what I do as the condensers are generally unreliable there).I got 2 condensers for $3.00 each.One week later I got the condensers & I installed one,but I also pulled the points out to have a look & a good thing I did.The points were so pitted from the condenser breaking down that I had to put in a good used set I just happened to have on hand. I had to put a new coil wire in too because the boot & spring just pulled off along with a section of the insulation.All I had to do now was re-gap the coil & the saw would be good to go,or so I thought.I pulled it over & got nothing.I checked for spark & had one faint spark.I was suspicious that the switch was bad,but I pulled the flywheel off again & found the condenser screws were loose.
I tightened them down & checked for spark & had intermittent spark.I toggled the switch a couple of times & had good spark.I put the plug back in & ity fired right up & ran nicely.I shut it off & restarted it without a problem.I went to get a bar & chain & put them on & went to restart it again & got nothing.I pulled the recoil off & disdconnected the switch wire & wrapped the end of it with electrical tape so it wouldn't ground out & the saw started right up! I've got a new switch on the way.There were a lot of electrical issues with this saw & it was tough to sort them all out,but it's a nice running saw.
I tightened them down & checked for spark & had intermittent spark.I toggled the switch a couple of times & had good spark.I put the plug back in & ity fired right up & ran nicely.I shut it off & restarted it without a problem.I went to get a bar & chain & put them on & went to restart it again & got nothing.I pulled the recoil off & disdconnected the switch wire & wrapped the end of it with electrical tape so it wouldn't ground out & the saw started right up! I've got a new switch on the way.There were a lot of electrical issues with this saw & it was tough to sort them all out,but it's a nice running saw.
