Homelite Chainsaws

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Probably good that you stuck with your day job, eh? <rimshot/cymbal crash>

I actually use the expression quite a lot. Dunno why. Maybe from the McKenzie brothers skit where they were talking about about how to put a dead mouse into a bottle of Molson in order to get a free case. Then there was my Buckin' phase that probably reinforced it somewhat.

Funny..., no one ever asks me if I'm Canadian, either. Just, "Are you ok?"
 
Finally got around to putting my friends SuperXL back together. I turned the crank down to 16mm and bored the case out to 24 mm on the lathe.
2030EA63-086F-4147-805E-DF3BED86BEFA.jpegC70553C0-22DF-4904-B41A-0AFD5EE1E406.jpegC41C2C1C-F67C-416B-9DE7-61BF59654152.jpegE1105F6A-F47B-465C-8D46-E8D4BC9C691F.jpeg
New bearings and rings. I used the Pro line rings from sawzilla and they needed a bit of filing to fit. I bought a chip for it, but the points were in great shape so I just sanded them up a bit. Gotta do a vac/ pressure test before I put the carb and muffler on. Getting hot in the shop so I’ll save that for the weekend.
 
Looking for NOS or aftermarket crank bearing PN 56097-S and gasket 55048-A for a 775G that is getting rebuilt for my dad. I have the other side bearing and seal. Appreciate any help!!

The Homelite PTO side bearing is PN 56097-S. One of the suppliers for this bearing was New Departure and their PN on the bearing was 5203C.

The standard size 5203 bearing is 17mm ID x 40mm OD x 17.5mm W.

The New Departure code chart indicates that C stands for a size deviation. The ID of the Homelite 56097-S bearing is 18 mm. So that means New Departure specifically made the 5203C bearing for Homelite with a non-standard ID of 18 mm.

There is also a channel cut into the OD of the bearing for the two locating bolts & tab washers inside the crankcase.

If you want to use a standard 5203 bearing (which is commonly available), the crankshaft will need to be turned down at a machine shop. And a groove will need to be machined into the bearing if you want to retain the locating bolts/washers inside the crankcase.

I also discovered that the Nachi 56097 bearing is an exact match in all respects to the Homelite 56097-S. I suspect Nachi was also a bearing supplier to Homelite at the time. Unfortunately, I searched far/wide for a Nachi 56097 bearing and can't find one.

So I'm back to Plan A, which is machining 1 mm off the crank and fitting a standard 5203 bearing on the PTO side.
 
Why did you turn down the crankshaft and bore the crank case ? Finally got around to putting my friends SuperXL back together. I turned the crank down to 16mm and bored the case out to 24 mm on the lathe.
View attachment 998069View attachment 998067View attachment 998066View attachment 998068
New bearings and rings. I used the Pro line rings from sawzilla and they needed a bit of filing to fit. I bought a chip for it, but the points were in great shape so I just sanded them up a bit. Gotta do a vac/ pressure test before I put the carb and muffler on. Getting hot in the shop so I’ll save that for the weekend.
 
Here is the clutch if that makes a difference.View attachment 1001412
Is the rim a 6 spline inside?
Removing the muffler and recoil you can insert a plastic straw in the cylinder and rotate the flywheel to make an indentation of the piston and then rotate the flywheel reverse. Measure the straw for confirmation of bore size.
Sdc carb or tillotson?
 
It doesn't look like a 1050 to me but parts can be swapped.
The Super 1050a had an SDC walbro on it in later production. I believe that the 1050s I have also have the out board clutch, which only takes the 8 pin ,404 , 6 spline rim sprocket or spur.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top