How to prime a Tilly HL to ease initial start up

[promac850]

That`s cool, I always wondered why my cap on the 250 leaked a bit of fuel out through the sintered bronze disc when turned up on its side. The fuel line in the tank had gone to a blob of goo also, that`s why the saw was given to me.

I did make a thread on replacing the duck bill... however, I later discovered that the donor cap is obsolete.

Next mission, acquire a new Homelite duck bill and figure out how to fit that into the Mac cap without any permanent modifications.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I noticed the cap in that thread was not like the one on my 250 and the1/43.

 

[promac850]

I noticed the cap in that thread was not like the one on my 250 and the1/43.

I was looking at this 250 cap and the one that is going on the 790 project (which uses the fuel tank and cap, etc. off of a 1-76) and they will interchange.

It is entirely possible that someone swapped the cap on your saw out for another before you got your paws on it.

The one for the 790 has a check ball in it, rather than a duck bill valve. I would imagine that means it would last longer and be more reliable. Maybe Mark H will enlighten us on the tank caps some more.

I'll look at the 1-43 cap that I have laying around here and report whether that one is different or not.

 

[Eccentric]

I did make a thread on replacing the duck bill... however, I later discovered that the donor cap is obsolete.

Next mission, acquire a new Homelite duck bill and figure out how to fit that into the Mac cap without any permanent modifications.

The Homelite duckbill valves (#69451) are smaller than the hole that the McCulloch duckbills fit into. Same (to a greater degree) with the Poulan duckbills (#530026119). Some sort of tubular spacer (of the right length and thickness) is the ticket. The Homelite duckbills are available from Oregon and Stens. The Poulan duckbills are available from Husqvarna dealers (and the Husky part number is the same as the Poulan part number).

I was looking at this 250 cap and the one that is going on the 790 project (which uses the fuel tank and cap, etc. off of a 1-76) and they will interchange.

It is entirely possible that someone swapped the cap on your saw out for another before you got your paws on it.

The one for the 790 has a check ball in it, rather than a duck bill valve. I would imagine that means it would last longer and be more reliable. Maybe Mark H will enlighten us on the tank caps some more.

I'll look at the 1-43 cap that I have laying around here and report whether that one is different or not.

The top tank and front tank Mac gas caps will indeed interchange.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I was looking at this 250 cap and the one that is going on the 790 project (which uses the fuel tank and cap, etc. off of a 1-76) and they will interchange.

It is entirely possible that someone swapped the cap on your saw out for another before you got your paws on it.

The one for the 790 has a check ball in it, rather than a duck bill valve. I would imagine that means it would last longer and be more reliable. Maybe Mark H will enlighten us on the tank caps some more.

I'll look at the 1-43 cap that I have laying around here and report whether that one is different or not.

Some day I would like to find a real OE fuel cap for it with a good bronze disc in it, from there I could come up with a good way to vent them properly using readily available ductbills wothout permanently damaging the cap. I am really good at retroengineering parts to make them work without any of the work showing. Coming from the area I grew up in it was necessity to keep old stuff operating, I made a habit of adapting whatever could be found at hand but it had to look good, work properly and not destroy anything that could not be replaced easily down the road.

 

[promac850]

Some day I would like to find a real OE fuel cap for it with a good bronze disc in it, from there I could come up with a good way to vent them properly using readily available ductbills wothout permanently damaging the cap. I am really good at retroengineering parts to make them work without any of the work showing. Coming from the area I grew up in it was necessity to keep old stuff operating, I made a habit of adapting whatever could be found at hand but it had to look good, work properly and not destroy anything that could not be replaced easily down the road.

I'll go grab the cap off of my 1-43 basket case. Be back in a few...

The cap I pulled off of the 1-43 is yet another different cap... same threads, same general exterior look, but different. It doesn't appear to be a vented cap either.

So, I have three different caps that will interchange. There could be a couple more out there yet...