How would you bring down this tree?

[anlrolfe]

That root ball is as much or more of a danger than the spring fall. Chain it off or come-along back as you work on it.
I'd be looking for a pole saw for that spring fall. I've gotten a little bit chicken in my years, my superman shirt has gotten torn and tattered.
Bring a buddy with you just in case...
Clear the tops on both making working space, relieve tension and weight then go Chinese on the spring fall (death by a thousand cuts)

 

[Henry E]

Not that I know what I am talking about but what are the thoughts of using a pole saw to cut it at the center of the curve? That would give the least spring back and would allow the tree to drop straight down.

 

[ArtB]

Have had a maple like that a few times.
Chain about 10 ft up on that one, pull root ball and all with tractor or winch from more than 50 feet away.

Having collectively spent a few weeks in a hospital from taking chances over the last 75 years, and not quick and nimble now either, there is no way I'd touch that trunk below the break with a saw (or ax) until it had set a few years or pulled with a wire rope

 

[grizz55chev]

That root ball is as much or more of a danger than the spring fall. Chain it off or come-along back as you work on it.
I'd be looking for a pole saw for that spring fall. I've gotten a little bit chicken in my years, my superman shirt has gotten torn and tattered.
Bring a buddy with you just in case...
Clear the tops on both making working space, relieve tension and weight then go Chinese on the spring fall (death by a thousand cuts)

One word, tannerite!

 

[ArtB]

Up until the early 1970's, one could go to local hardware store here (BBB, before big box) and buy a 1/2 stick of dynamite and 3 ft of fuse.

Now the stump is safe.

 

[hseII]

#1 question: Do you have to cut it? Is there anything wrong with leaving it for a couple of years? If you can, just leave it for a few years it will lose pressure over time and be a lot safer to cut. I've told a lot of landowners I work with "there is nothing in the woods worth dying over!"

If you do feel it needs cut:
*Certainly cut up the red oak first. It wouldn't take much from that to add pressure onto the white oak. Get as much pressure off as you can.
*Next, I'd cut up as much of the top as you can safely (without cutting over your head).
*Do you know how to plunge cut? That is the best way to prevent barber chair. Cut a wide open hinge either towards the lean or 90 degrees as suggested above. Then plunge in, leave a hinge and cut back.

Or...set a fire around the base of it.

This.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Marshy]

Did the OP ever cut this?
Personally I'd reduce the weight from the top as much as reasonably possible. Then notch and back cut and drop it 90 degrees to the lay. Cutting off the top will allow the horizontal portion of the top to roll as it falls over. If you leave the top in tack it has to roll the whole tree and would definitely need assistance. I'm usually not fond of taking the top off wind blown trees but this case is different. It also unloads and tension that might be stored in the split trunk.

 

[oldfortyfive]

Not that I know what I am talking about but what are the thoughts of using a pole saw to cut it at the center of the curve? That would give the least spring back and would allow the tree to drop straight down.

I've done that on a couple trees. You can really reduce the stored energy that way.