HP requirement for 22gpm Pump?

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A little research at the haldex site tells me that the high gear moves 80% more fluid but the low gear only moves 20% more (16 vs 22). Think I could make up 20% with a larger engine on the smaller pump and keeping it in high gear longer?

In the past when I've run a splitter, which granted isn't much, I wasn't retracting the ram much more than the length of the wood I was splitting, so there wasn't a lot of high gear time to take advantage of.

Now that I think about it (typing as you think makes for a disjointed post LOL) all of the retracting is high gear, so that accounts for half the cycle time.

I think I'd be better off with the 22.... maybe. :dizzy:

Ian
 
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What I read here is your trying to get as close to a 1 stage as possible with the benefit of 2 stage. Years ago before 2 stage pumps they simply used on old tractor engine that had enough power to get-er-done. The nicest stand alone I ever heard of used an old 60cu. flat head Cub motor. Very efficient and quiet. 1600rpm max. And actually it doesn't weight all that much more than a twin but its a 4 cylinder. Someday I would like to build one as I just happen to have one in stationary form in my garage.
 
I think what I'll do is get a 22 gpm pump and run it with the 21hp engine off my buddy's lawn mower. According to the formula posted by Kevin J, I should be able to run the shift point up to 1300psi. 22gpm at 1300psi requires just over 19hp. Considering the stock shift point is factory set to 650, this should be a pretty substantial improvement.

Ian
 
So the pump isn't designed to run long term with a higher first stage setting.

Bummer.... I guess it's either a smaller engine or the 28gpm pump then.

I won't have the cash to start buying parts for another 6 weeks anyway so I have time to go back and forth and forth and back on it. I might know a little something by that time.

Ian
 
Thought I read somewhere that the unloader was adjustable up to about 900 lbs. with an increased risk of pump shaft damage .

Haldex refers tech support to their distributors. I called a couple and asked about that. The first fellow didn't know, the second guy was on vacation, the third guy wouldn't even attempt to answer it and referred me to Northern Tool. LOL

Ian
 
And around and around and around we go.... full circle it seems. Northern Tool won't answer any hydraulic questions for liability reasons and referred me back to Haldex. They did give me the Haldex switchboard phone number, and the operator at Haldex gave me the direct phone number to the tech guy, so maybe tomorrow I can ask him. He's in a sales meeting this afternoon.

Ian
 
Ian, the more you dig into this the more you find out why Speeco and others do what they do with their standard setups. To move into the place you want to go is in another ball park where things can get a little pricey. But I say go for it. A splitter is usually a long time investment. Skimp a little now and you will be stuck with it for a long time.
 
Assuming that I get the 28gpm pump and I can talk the engine down to 200 from 250, I'll have $805 in pump, engine, beam, cylinder, lovejoy coupler, filter and mount, and suction strainer. This will leave new hoses and scrounging the frame, oil tank and wheels.

Since the engine is off a riding mower, I'll have to rig a gas tank and a battery mount for it. I'm hoping to get away with what the 22ton Speeco costs new and have a lot more splitter for my trouble.

It won't be pretty and it won't be road worthy. I'll just set it up with wheels so I can move it from the barn to the wood pile by hand or towed behind the lawn mower.

Ian
 
+1 on that. yes it will be pricey on many levels, but it will give you power and speed and production. You decide how much that is worth. For me, time is worth a lot. The old saying from the hot rod days: 'speed costs, how fast can you afford to go?’

Ian, your feeble mind must be decent as you have figured out exactly where hydraulics has gone in the last decades: Running smaller pumps, at higher speeds, higher pressures to get the power in smaller components, lines, space, etc. etc. Farm tractors or bulldozers in the 1950's were 850 psi, with big fat cylinders to get the required forces. Now hydr excavators are 3500 to 5000 psi, and some applications push 6000 psi and above in open loop systems, not hydrostatics. Much of that is materials improvements, and much is fluid/additive improvements.

So you are correct in that a smaller pump at higher pressure can transfer the same power. (hp = flow times pressure, so increasing pressure decreases the required flow for the same power). In this case, more force at the wedge with smaller cylinder and valves and lines.

However...... the rub for a consumer is that 3000 psi is about the maximum for practical reasons. Maybe some 3400 psi per prior posts here. Common half inch two wires hoses, 37 degree flare fittings, cylinder metal tubes, cylinder cheap lip or o-ring seals, pumps, and spool valves are all generally designed about that maximum because that is where industry was for a long time. Since the largest market = largest quantity of production = lowest prices, that is the best consumer choice for the OEM splitter people. Much easier to add cylinder size than to get higher pressure components through the entire system.

Thus, assuming you are limited to about 3000 psi, this defines cylinder size for whatever force you want. Pick a speed and that defines flow and hp. Or, pick a hp and that defines maximum flows. Engineering is a game of tradeoffs, and every addition to force or speed costs money. The OEMs have settled into 5 hp, 8 hp, 12 hp because they are common engines and pumps are available. The pump people have settled into 11-13-16 gpm sizes because they match the engines well.

OK, back on topic. The 22 and 28 are in the larger frame, but both have the same small section, .465 cubic inches/revolution. (BTW, the 11 and 13 also have the same small section of .194 cir. That’s why I push the 13 gpm pump instead of the 11.) Add a large stage of .93 cir and you get 1.395 total cir for the 22 gpm version (at 3600 rpm). Add a large stage of 1.395 for total 1.86 cir and it is a 28 gpm version.

Thus, the low speed, high pressure performance and hp required will be almost the same with either version. For 2500 psi that is about 12 hp. For 3000 psi it is about 14 hp. So a 16 to 18 hp engine would be great. Larger engine, say 20 hp, does not give more psi or more speed, it just runs at slightly less then WOT to where it produces the required 12 or 14 hp. But it can do that when it is tired or out of tune and still have plenty to account for the slight extra power of the unloaded section.

Now, large section. Barnes shows performance charts for unloading settings of from 400 to 900 psi, with factory settings of 650. 900 psi is 13 hp for the 22 gpm, and 17 hp for the 28 gpm. I was emailing the Barnes AE a year back about increasing a 11 or 13 gpm pump up to about 1100 psi with shimming. It would not be blessed by Haldex at all, but was within the torque capabilities of the shaft. You could probably do it on a larger pump also, but realistically, the 900 psi matches the engine hp pretty well.

Next, do the cylinder calculations to match the flows. Maybe 28 is too much on retract speed. Remember 28 gpm into the rod side is 35 + gpm out the closed side, so the spool valve and return filter and lines all around get much bigger.

So, bottom line, if you go small engine I recommend 13 pump over the 11 pump. The next jump up is the 16 gpm. If you make the big jump in frame size and cost to the D series, you may as well go the 28 instead of the 22.

I would volunteer an excel spread sheet with all this on it but I am searching for it. Send me a pm with an email address. I can’t attach files to PM’s back. Might take a few days till I get to the old home computer.

kcj
 
Ian, what makes good tanks is retired 20 pound propane cylinders. I spliced two together to make the oil tank and put in cavitation and sediment baffles while apart. Probably gives better than 8 gallons working capacity. The fuel tank was dash mounted on that mower so transplanted it to the rear of the splitter with all the switches and carb controls. Only problem plastic tank is pre ehanol gas era and is going all gummy around the filler nozzle so plan on using another propane tank for fuel.

Mine is a 12 Tecumseh (out of business) and I used the 16 gal 2 stage pump but it is way more engine than I need. It goes into low output for only about a second for the initial pop of the block. My wedge is a compound curve so is very thin initially and then flares rapidly. It is formed from back to back grader blade sections grafted together. Good wedge design and the two stage technology sure can reduce engine size needed.
 
Mine will have a knife on the beam rather than a wedge on the cylinder. One thing I didn't like about that one I borrowed was the fact that I had to pull the stringy pieces apart after they were mostly split. With a knife on the beam, I can use the next piece to push the last all the way through. Depending on the height of the knife of course. Might be a pain on big pieces that the knife doesn't reach through.

Ian
 
I have a stationary wedge too, though I know the relative merits of that can be debated forever. With a 32 inch stroke, I can have the pusher coming within a quarter inch of the wedge so stringy thingies are not a problem. My wedge and pusher are both over a foot high and I split two blocks high on the smaller stuff. When you dont have to move them around by hand you dont have to worry about shaving every bit of extra weight or bulk.
 
I've used both styles and yes the strings are tougher to deal with on a moving wedge design but overall I think I work less with the wood staying still to have to constantly fetch back the log. Where the moving wedge really shines is when the wood is cooperating and break easily. Then you can crack turn, crack turn, and so on very efficiently and fast while the wedge moves in a relative small area. On a fixed wedge you keep having to drag the log back and turn it. The way around the strings is to just make the wedge come very close to the foot.
 
I see the advantages of both designs and the extra movement required for the fixed wedge (or knife) type. Maybe eventually, I can incorporate an actual wedge on the beam instead of a knife, maybe a slip on deal to get the best of both. Drop the wedge on for the easy stuff that pops and use the knife on the elm and hackberry that need severing down to the last half inch.

Ian
 
+1 on that. yes it will be pricey on many levels, but it will give you power and speed and production. You decide how much that is worth. For me, time is worth a lot. The old saying from the hot rod days: 'speed costs, how fast can you afford to go?’

Ian, your feeble mind must be decent as you have figured out exactly where hydraulics has gone in the last decades: Running smaller pumps, at higher speeds, higher pressures to get the power in smaller components, lines, space, etc. etc. Farm tractors or bulldozers in the 1950's were 850 psi, with big fat cylinders to get the required forces. Now hydr excavators are 3500 to 5000 psi, and some applications push 6000 psi and above in open loop systems, not hydrostatics. Much of that is materials improvements, and much is fluid/additive improvements.

So you are correct in that a smaller pump at higher pressure can transfer the same power. (hp = flow times pressure, so increasing pressure decreases the required flow for the same power). In this case, more force at the wedge with smaller cylinder and valves and lines.

However...... the rub for a consumer is that 3000 psi is about the maximum for practical reasons. Maybe some 3400 psi per prior posts here. Common half inch two wires hoses, 37 degree flare fittings, cylinder metal tubes, cylinder cheap lip or o-ring seals, pumps, and spool valves are all generally designed about that maximum because that is where industry was for a long time. Since the largest market = largest quantity of production = lowest prices, that is the best consumer choice for the OEM splitter people. Much easier to add cylinder size than to get higher pressure components through the entire system.

Thus, assuming you are limited to about 3000 psi, this defines cylinder size for whatever force you want. Pick a speed and that defines flow and hp. Or, pick a hp and that defines maximum flows. Engineering is a game of tradeoffs, and every addition to force or speed costs money. The OEMs have settled into 5 hp, 8 hp, 12 hp because they are common engines and pumps are available. The pump people have settled into 11-13-16 gpm sizes because they match the engines well.

OK, back on topic. The 22 and 28 are in the larger frame, but both have the same small section, .465 cubic inches/revolution. (BTW, the 11 and 13 also have the same small section of .194 cir. That’s why I push the 13 gpm pump instead of the 11.) Add a large stage of .93 cir and you get 1.395 total cir for the 22 gpm version (at 3600 rpm). Add a large stage of 1.395 for total 1.86 cir and it is a 28 gpm version.

Thus, the low speed, high pressure performance and hp required will be almost the same with either version. For 2500 psi that is about 12 hp. For 3000 psi it is about 14 hp. So a 16 to 18 hp engine would be great. Larger engine, say 20 hp, does not give more psi or more speed, it just runs at slightly less then WOT to where it produces the required 12 or 14 hp. But it can do that when it is tired or out of tune and still have plenty to account for the slight extra power of the unloaded section.

Now, large section. Barnes shows performance charts for unloading settings of from 400 to 900 psi, with factory settings of 650. 900 psi is 13 hp for the 22 gpm, and 17 hp for the 28 gpm. I was emailing the Barnes AE a year back about increasing a 11 or 13 gpm pump up to about 1100 psi with shimming. It would not be blessed by Haldex at all, but was within the torque capabilities of the shaft. You could probably do it on a larger pump also, but realistically, the 900 psi matches the engine hp pretty well.

Next, do the cylinder calculations to match the flows. Maybe 28 is too much on retract speed. Remember 28 gpm into the rod side is 35 + gpm out the closed side, so the spool valve and return filter and lines all around get much bigger.

So, bottom line, if you go small engine I recommend 13 pump over the 11 pump. The next jump up is the 16 gpm. If you make the big jump in frame size and cost to the D series, you may as well go the 28 instead of the 22.

I would volunteer an excel spread sheet with all this on it but I am searching for it. Send me a pm with an email address. I can’t attach files to PM’s back. Might take a few days till I get to the old home computer.

kcj

One more monkey wrench in the equation is this... I read somewhere recently that most typical log splitter control valves have a max flow of 25gpm and to make full use of the 28, you have to buy a high flow valve. These are more expensive and you have to look a little harder to find them.

The first thing I'm picking up is a beam, cylinder, and control valve designed for the 3 point hitch on a tractor (thanks Ericjeeper), so the control valve is what it is. I'm assuming that it's a standard 25gpm valve, so the extra hundred I spend on the 28gpm pump is only going to gain me 3gpm on the high flow side and nothing on the low gear since it's the same gear as the 22 has.

Sounds like my best bang for the buck is to go with the 22gpm pump, a 16hp engine, and bump the unloading valve up to 900psi to hold the high flow side of the pump longer.

sound logical?
Ian
 
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