Husky 357XP and Stihl MS361?

[Lakeside53]

The only time I have a problem with this is when the stud shoulders are worn (stihl) or the bar isn't picked up when tensioning.

 

[Lakeside53]

The only time I have a problem with this is when the stud shoulders are worn (stihl) or the bar isn't pulled up when tensioning.

 

[SawTroll]

... I have only alittle time on the husky 357, but have found something I dislike about it. or it could be something I am just over looking. When you put the b+c on and get the chain tension just right and you are pulling up on the front of bar to get just right to tighten up the 2 bar nuts. Well for some reason only on the husky (none of the other brands I have do this) it makes the chain actually get tighter when you tighten the bar nuts down. You have to leave the chain alittle looser then I am used to, before tightening everything up to get it right. I leave my chains looser then most I would expect, but this sucker tightens up so tight its got to be goofy or something. Is this a husky thing?

The same thing happens with my 353, but it isn't a real problem once you have get accustomed to it.....

It has been this way since new.

 

[SawTroll]

A trick I learned a while back, set the adjuster snug, leaving the bar nuts loose, then tighten the bar nuts, loosen the nuts just enought to move the bar, and finish tightning the adjuster to the right tension. Sounds odd, but works well for me.
Andy

Thats about what I do, but I have to use some "Kentucky windage" on the 353 anyway.....

 

[Cut4fun]

A trick I learned a while back, set the adjuster snug, leaving the bar nuts loose, then tighten the bar nuts, loosen the nuts just enought to move the bar, and finish tightning the adjuster to the right tension. Sounds odd, but works well for me.
Andy

Thats what I started doing on the husky. Just didnt like having to change the routine. :bang:

 

[B_Turner]

Something that I notice sometimes on my saws is that when I put on a chain and adjust it nice, it goes a bit slack as soon as I first spin the chain under power. Like the chain seats a bit on the sprocket or bar. I always fire up the saw for a few seconds (spin the chain a little) turn off the saw and then readjust the tension. I have done that for so long I just assume that is the way it is. Just me? Actually now that I think about it I do it first thing of the day for each saw I run.

It also gives me a chance to see how the bar is oiling and how the saw is running.

My brother the hard core arborist actually runs his saw a bit in a few positions (sideways, etc) first thing of the day to make sure it is working well before he gets into committed situations on tricky treework.

 

[B_Turner]

IMHO the only problem I see in Daves pics is the saw he is using.opcorn:

I've posted this once before, but with current interest in Baileys full wrap 372 (and since I did not know it before I figured it out) I throw out this info again.

If you cut a lot of side grain on big pieces (lots of noodles - as I reserve the term curly fries for my lathe shavings when roughing) be aware that on the Huskies I have used/owned the full wrap bar actually crosses directly beneath the sprocket cover and that in combination with the chaincatcher forms a serious restriction for the noodle shavings. Pluggs easily and can bend the lip of the outer bar plate on a 395 for example. Not a problem with chips. Next time you are at a Husky dealer, pick up a full wrap model and stick your thumb in that pathway. It may surprise you how small the path is.

It was such a problem for the Huskies that I had bought with full wrap, I swapped them out for half wrap and it helped a lot. My 066 full wrap does not cross below at all, and thus is not a problem.

On the downside, around here the half wrap Huskies come with the smaller dogs and the FW come with the bigger dogs, which I prefer. So either way I have to swap something.

Again this is only of interest for those cutting a lot of noodles.