Husky 357XP and Stihl MS361?

[B_Turner]

And what is it you would do? Btw there are many inefficiencies at work here

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And what is your technique?
And again, what's your secret?




Enough points? Rep?? Ha, what are you talkin about? It's a simple matter to find the horse beating smiley The word "more" figures into it heavily :deadhorse: If you stihl can't find it, try typing this ;deadhorse; but change the semi-colons to colons.



Btw, do you know what I was doing in that pic? Do you do that much, yourself?

No real secret, unsuccessfully tried to talk of the technique in post #47. It is an abstract kind of thing, being sensitive to the way the cutters and chips "feel" as you cut and constantly reacting by adjusting the throttle, angle and rate of feed. Throttle alone only works so far.

I am now getting the dead horse::deadhorse: graphic showing in the editor, but when I composed that posting that graphic was not one of the graphics offerred by the interface and I thought maybe I wasn't senior enough . Thanks for the inline code tip.

I was assuming I understood what you were doing in that pic - sidecutting turning blanks- but I could be mistaken.

Yes, I do that a very lot. Was not trying to offend, just wanted to mention to the less experienced lurkers that just like felling (which I am not an expert) there is a lot more than meets the eye when cutting side grain with a saw. I am not saying that you personally are not skilled at it, but I had tried to talk in the abstract about it in a earlier post and thought I would take advantage of the pic to illustrate just a bit. Sounds like your take was my posting was not helpful or interesting. Sorry, my bad.

 

[trimmmed]

No real secret, unsuccessfully tried to talk of the technique in post #47.

I am now getting the dead horse::deadhorse: graphic showing in the editor, but when I composed that posting that graphic was not one of the graphics offerred by the interface and I thought maybe I wasn't senior enough . Thanks for the inline code tip.

I was assuming I understood what you were doing in that pic - sidecutting turning blanks- but I could be mistaken.

Yes, I do that a very lot. Was not trying to offend, just wanted to mention to the less experienced lurkers that just like felling (which I am not an expert) there is a lot more than meets the eye when cutting side grain with a saw. I am not saying that you personally are not skilled at it, but I had tried to talk in the abstract about it in a earlier post and thought I would take advantage of the pic to illustrate just a bit. Sounds like your take was my posting was not helpful or interesting. Sorry, my bad.

No offense taken, no sweat. When you look at your smiley interface and don't see what you want, click "more" in the bottom left corner of that screen and you will find it.

Actually I was cutting table leg blanks, in that pic. There are 12 of them and it took about 1 hour. You said ineffecient, I was asking how

Let me show you the start of the cut, you'll see the back is clear and spitting chips

Now here's the end of the cut, yes it's gettin stuffed, but it does make the cut.

The other inefficiencies are that I am using a 34" bar and the logs measure a little over 31"
Table height is 30" so I am hoping for a finished 29". Here's how they came out, how were the cuts?

I'll take 12 legs in an hour anyday, but if you can tell me how to do that even quicker and more efficient, I'm all ears.

 

[04ultra]

Trimmmed you forgot to get the saw stuck.. Nice pic's..

 

[CaseyForrest]

My 361, 660 and the 460 I used to have all looked like Daves second picture with the shavings hung up in the cover.

I dont think having the inboard clutch allows the "fries" to exit the area any better than Huskies clutch set-up.

IMHO the only problem I see in Daves pics is the saw he is using.opcorn:

 

[Jaxx]

Back to the inboard vs outboard clutch.
If one was cutting with a saw with an outboard clutch and a tree were to sit back and bind the bar and chain, is it possible to easily to remove the powerhead?

 

[CaseyForrest]

Back to the inboard vs outboard clutch.
If one was cutting with a saw with an outboard clutch and a tree were to sit back and bind the bar and chain, is it possible to easily to remove the powerhead?

Go get the second saw you should have and cut it out.

 

[trimmmed]

You are right Casey, it needs to be a 395 not a 372

The 372 has an inboard clutch, btw. Most of that crap just knocks right off with a swipe of the hand. You could cut a bigger hole in the back of the bar cover too. I'd rather knot though :rockn:

 

[manual]

IMHO the only problem I see in Daves pics is the saw he is usingopcorn:QUOTE]
For some reason I could see you having problems when using a husky.opcorn:

 

[manual]

Back to the inboard vs outboard clutch.
If one was cutting with a saw with an outboard clutch and a tree were to sit back and bind the bar and chain, is it possible to easily to remove the powerhead?

YES, but of course.

 

[Freakingstang]

Go get the second saw you should have and cut it out.

Wedge and an Ax to drive it. 2nd saw is asking for trouble.

Also, a bore and cut back to the holding stap (tree's perimeter) works better. Less chance of a stuck saw just cutting the holding strap than trying to cut all the way through.

 

[manual]

Wedge and an Ax to drive it. 2nd saw is asking for trouble.

Also, a bore and cut back to the holding stap (tree's perimeter) works better. Less chance of a stuck saw just cutting the holding strap than trying to cut all the way through.

Ok I'm lost.

 

[Freakingstang]

Ok I'm lost.

Simple, but my ways of explaining are probably not the best.

Make your notch. bore in behind your notch leaving approx 10% of tree's diameter. (this will be the holding wood). Cut away from the notch...cut almost all the way through, remove the saw and cut the tiny holding strap to release the tree (on the outside of the tree, farthest from the notch). (NOT the holding wood/pivot directly behind the notch).

This should be common practive for a bore cut. and frees the saw before it has a chance to get pinched. Also good practice to insert a wedge after removing your saw and before cutting the holding strap.

Husqvarna had a training/safety video years ago that showed this method.

 

[B_Turner]

Here's how they came out, how were the cuts?

The blanks look great.

 

[CaseyForrest]

You are right Casey, it needs to be a 395 not a 372

The 372 has an inboard clutch, btw. Most of that crap just knocks right off with a swipe of the hand. You could cut a bigger hole in the back of the bar cover too. I'd rather knot though :rockn:

haha...you got me there!

 

[manual]

Ok Yes I suppose if the tree is big enough to do all that.
But if the tree was already leaning backwards to the fall, I would forget the strap and start a wedge with a plunge cut. then work the sides in.

 

[CaseyForrest]

IMHO the only problem I see in Daves pics is the saw he is usingopcorn:QUOTE]
For some reason I could see you having problems when using a husky.opcorn:

You are right...just dont feel right in my hands.

I would love to try a 372 though, heard nothing but good things about them. I have used a 395 with 42" bar in carvinmarks mill.

 

[Tzed250]

2 cents

The open face notch with the bored back cut is great, gives you the most control. But I have stuck my 044 before and couldn't get a wedge in. The powerhead was right against the trunk. The inboard clutch allowed me to free the saw before we pulled the tree with a dozer, so my powerhead was out of harms way. I doubt i would have gotten a outboard clutch saw out of there. I cuss an outboard sprocket every time I put the bar back on my SP125.

 

[manual]

You are right...just dont feel right in my hands.

I would love to try a 372 though, heard nothing but good things about them. I have used a 395 with 42" bar in carvinmarks mill.

so what did you think ?

 

[B_Turner]

Some time in the future if I am cutting when a video camera is around I will show some examples of how I use slight differences in throttle, angle and feedrate to really help keep chips flowing. I won't:deadhorse: till then.

 

[CaseyForrest]

so what did you think ?

Hard to tell with the saw in a mill and not actually holding the weight of the saw. I can tell you that the 395 and the 066/660 are right in line with each other.

I was impressed the 395 pulled the 42" bar, but it was cutting pine. Probably about a 30" cut.