Husky 357XP and Stihl MS361?

[manual]

The open face notch with the bored back cut is great, gives you the most control. But I have stuck my 044 before and couldn't get a wedge in. The powerhead was right against the trunk. The inboard clutch allowed me to free the saw before we pulled the tree with a dozer, so my powerhead was out of harms way. I doubt i would have gotten a outboard clutch saw out of there. I cuss an outboard sprocket every time I put the bar back on my SP125.

I would not know why. unless the dogs were buried. in that case you would have a hard time getting eather one out.

I had a bar stuck, got the saw out of the way, then cabled the tree down.
the tree slide of the side and broke my bar, Grrrrrrrrrr
atleast I saved the saw.

 

[manual]

Hard to tell with the saw in a mill and not actually holding the weight of the saw. I can tell you that the 395 and the 066/660 are right in line with each other.

I was impressed the 395 pulled the 42" bar, but it was cutting pine. Probably about a 30" cut.

how about the wood chip factor ?

 

[CaseyForrest]

how about the wood chip factor ?

Well, chip factor is dependent more on how the chain is filed. I can get fine dust if I have the file to high in the cutter, lower it down a couple thousandths and I can get bigger chips in a milling situation.

All in all its a fine saw, and I wont diss Husky at all. My jabs are more to get you fired up!!!

 

[manual]

Well, chip factor is dependent more on how the chain is filed. I can get fine dust if I have the file to high in the cutter, lower it down a couple thousandths and I can get bigger chips in a milling situation.

All in all its a fine saw, and I wont diss Husky at all. My jabs are more to get you fired up!!!

Hows this:angry2:. Not :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Freakingstang]

Well, chip factor is dependent more on how the chain is filed. I can get fine dust if I have the file to high in the cutter, lower it down a couple thousandths and I can get bigger chips in a milling situation.

All in all its a fine saw, and I wont diss Husky at all. My jabs are more to get you fired up!!!

Just tell him how your old 260 would wipe that 357...











We all know better though...

 

[computeruser]

You are right...just dont feel right in my hands.

I would love to try a 372 though, heard nothing but good things about them. I have used a 395 with 42" bar in carvinmarks mill.

so what did you think ?

He sure looks happy with a Husqvarna, doesn't he?

 

[West Texas]

I have two 361's modded as 'woods' saws and have access to two more 361's on which I have done a muffler mod. I like the performance of all four saws, The muffler mod makes a noisy difference that's worth listening to anytime. However, I don't think you 'need' a woods mod on the 361; but, it does make a nice improvement over just a muffler mod.

 

[ciscoguy01]

Oh man

He sure looks happy with a Husqvarna, doesn't he?

Ignorance is bliss isn't it??? Sorry, I couldn't help it dude. You walked right into it. I yanked my 266 apart tonight to make my own little muffler mod. Ended up pulling the jug and cleaning the top of the cylinder, and spending about a 2 hrs cleanin the old girl up. Even for being around 20yrs old, what a GREAT running saw... I love mine. :biggrinbounce2:

 

[trimmmed]

He sure looks happy with a Husqvarna, doesn't he?

Yep, looks like a pretty big smile to me!

I have heard this happens to die hard stihl fans when they pick up a husky.

 

[SawTroll]

Back to the inboard vs outboard clutch.
If one was cutting with a saw with an outboard clutch and a tree were to sit back and bind the bar and chain, is it possible to easily to remove the powerhead?

Usually not.

...but if the bar is fairly long, and it is just the tip of the bar that is pinched, it could be possible (have never done it).

 

[SawTroll]

... Make your notch. bore in behind your notch leaving approx 10% of tree's diameter. (this will be the holding wood). Cut away from the notch...cut almost all the way through, remove the saw and cut the tiny holding strap to release the tree (on the outside of the tree, farthest from the notch). (NOT the holding wood/pivot directly behind the notch).

This should be common practive for a bore cut. and frees the saw before it has a chance to get pinched. Also good practice to insert a wedge after removing your saw and before cutting the holding strap.

Husqvarna had a training/safety video years ago that showed this method.

Nothing wrong with that description........

I do that on front leaners only -
do you have a way to do it on side- and back-leaners? :biggrinbounce2:

 

[SawTroll]

...

I dont think having the inboard clutch allows the "fries" to exit the area any better than Huskies clutch set-up. ....

Not the exit, but the saws with outboards tend to trap the chips before the exit....:biggrinbounce2:

 

[Lakeside53]

Yep, looks like a pretty big smile to me!

I have heard this happens to die hard stihl fans when they pick up a husky.

That's no "smile"; it's because the recoil is caught in his zipper...:greenchainsaw:

 

[Cut4fun]

Ok to fire up the board with some BS. I have only alittle time on the husky 357, but have found something I dislike about it. or it could be something I am just over looking. When you put the b+c on and get the chain tension just right and you are pulling up on the front of bar to get just right to tighten up the 2 bar nuts. Well for some reason only on the husky (none of the other brands I have do this) it makes the chain actually get tighter when you tighten the bar nuts down. You have to leave the chain alittle looser then I am used to, before tightening everything up to get it right. I leave my chains looser then most I would expect, but this sucker tightens up so tight its got to be goofy or something. Is this a husky thing?

 

[B_Turner]

Does the tensioning adjuster look okay? In the right position and not cracked?

The only other thing that comes to mind is that if the bar for some reason isn't quite flat against the inner bar plate, when you tighten the nuts the taper of the tensioning pin pulls the bar forward as the bar is pushed inwards.

Does the taper of the locating pin continue all the way to the saw, or does it go to an even diameter for the equivalent to the thickness of the bar.

I'm scratching my head on what else it could be. Maybe sometimes I get a tiny bit of chain tightening on my huskies when I tighten the nuts if had the bar a bit loose while I adjusted it, but nothing I ever really notice. I'll be interested in what anyone comes up with.

 

[trimmmed]

Ok to fire up the board with some BS. I have only alittle time on the husky 357, but have found something I dislike about it. or it could be something I am just over looking. When you put the b+c on and get the chain tension just right and you are pulling up on the front of bar to get just right to tighten up the 2 bar nuts. Well for some reason only on the husky (none of the other brands I have do this) it makes the chain actually get tighter when you tighten the bar nuts down. You have to leave the chain alittle looser then I am used to, before tightening everything up to get it right. I leave my chains looser then most I would expect, but this sucker tightens up so tight its got to be goofy or something. Is this a husky thing?

It is on mine.

 

[ciscoguy01]

Yip

It is on mine.

Mine also...

 

[Gologit]

Ok to fire up the board with some BS. I have only alittle time on the husky 357, but have found something I dislike about it. or it could be something I am just over looking. When you put the b+c on and get the chain tension just right and you are pulling up on the front of bar to get just right to tighten up the 2 bar nuts. Well for some reason only on the husky (none of the other brands I have do this) it makes the chain actually get tighter when you tighten the bar nuts down. You have to leave the chain alittle looser then I am used to, before tightening everything up to get it right. I leave my chains looser then most I would expect, but this sucker tightens up so tight its got to be goofy or something. Is this a husky thing?

Not just a Husky thing. My newer Stihls (361, 660) don't tighten up at all. The older saws (066,032) tighten up quite a bit. Could be a function of age.

 

[Freakingstang]

Ok to fire up the board with some BS. I have only alittle time on the husky 357, but have found something I dislike about it. or it could be something I am just over looking. When you put the b+c on and get the chain tension just right and you are pulling up on the front of bar to get just right to tighten up the 2 bar nuts. Well for some reason only on the husky (none of the other brands I have do this) it makes the chain actually get tighter when you tighten the bar nuts down. You have to leave the chain alittle looser then I am used to, before tightening everything up to get it right. I leave my chains looser then most I would expect, but this sucker tightens up so tight its got to be goofy or something. Is this a husky thing?

Is the bar stud somewhat tapered? My 359 does this when the nuts are real loose. If I just loosen the nuts barely and adjust it is fine, but If I loosen the nuts like 1 1/2 turns it does what you are describing. I don't really care for the design. Glad my 372 isn't like that.

 

[sawinredneck]

Ok to fire up the board with some BS. I have only alittle time on the husky 357, but have found something I dislike about it. or it could be something I am just over looking. When you put the b+c on and get the chain tension just right and you are pulling up on the front of bar to get just right to tighten up the 2 bar nuts. Well for some reason only on the husky (none of the other brands I have do this) it makes the chain actually get tighter when you tighten the bar nuts down. You have to leave the chain alittle looser then I am used to, before tightening everything up to get it right. I leave my chains looser then most I would expect, but this sucker tightens up so tight its got to be goofy or something. Is this a husky thing?

A trick I learned a while back, set the adjuster snug, leaving the bar nuts loose, then tighten the bar nuts, loosen the nuts just enought to move the bar, and finish tightning the adjuster to the right tension. Sounds odd, but works well for me.
Andy