Husky 460/359/365

[rahtreelimbs]

That post represent something that have been annoying me for a long time, inserting modded saw performance into treads that are about stock saws - it just isn't fair, and mess the discussions up for those just looking for a good saw for their use.............

So is posting from spec sheets with no trigger time on your hands!!!

Think about it...............you need to!!!

 

[SawTroll]

Almost as annoying as consistantly reading the "Cheerleader" posting again for the 361; When the original posting/question never mentioned it.

LOL, you have a point..........:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Almost as annoying as consistantly reading the "Cheerleader" posting again for the 361; When the original posting/question never mentioned it.

And who might that be???:yoyo:

 

[SawTroll]

And who might that be???:yoyo:

I have a hunch.........:biggrinbounce2: :greenchainsaw:


....but not only me.....

 

[MAG58]

Well mine 2159 is not a Cat/E-tech, and I was surprised how good it is running, cos after what I have read her on AS it was not a good runner before you did a muffler mod. Maybe the 2159 Cat/359 E-tech is a dud, but I think the non E-tech/Cat over here is a real good saw.

 

[SawTroll]

So is posting from spec sheets with no trigger time on your hands!!!

Think about it...............you need to!!!

Fair enough......

... I seldom rely on spec sheets alone, in the case of 359 vs 361 vs 357xp, my statements are supported by the test results by DLG/KWF - but still not good enough for you, I suppose.

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Fair enough......

... I seldom rely on spec sheets alone, in the case of 359 vs 361 vs 357xp, my statements are supported by the test results by DLG/KWF - but still not good enough for you, I suppose.

Spec sheets are a start............but here trigger time goes much further IMO. That is what I look for!

 

[MAG58]

Also, as we have discussed in other threads, Husky/Jonsered have yet to change a power rating of any saw they have put a cat muffler on.

Let me clarify my last post guys. I am not saying that the 460 is the better saw. Obviously, the 359 is a better built saw. The 460 will cut with it though, and I think it is a better value for the personal firewood cutter. I think the 359 E-tech is a dud out of the box, and outside of the AS world, Joe Customer doesn't want to hear that he needs to buy another muffler and/or do mods to make the saw perform.

The reason that dealers are discounting them is due to that value idea. (the "power price" difference is $80) The more serious buyers are buying the 346's and 357's. The 359 used to sell to that personal firewood guy who wanted something larger than a 50 CC saw with an 18" bar. That business has almost completely shifted to the 455/460. So, the 359 is for the most part the odd man out here.

I'm actually kind of puzzled by the 359's popularity among members here. It would seem that especially in this forum, the overwhelming choice would be the 357, in much the same way that most members have always ignored the 365 in favor of the 372. Why wouldn't the same logic apply to the 359/357 ?

Well over here you can get a 2152/353 and a 2159/359 tougher, or a 2171/372xp power-head for almost the same cost as a 2156/357xp, cos 2152/353 and 2159/359 are always at campaign prise.( Non Cat/E-tech)

 

[MAG58]

2147/346xp and 2156/357xp is the most costly saw's over her consider the size. The Power-head of 2171/372xp or 2165/365 are cheaper, cos the 2147/346xp and 2156/357xp is the most popular saw's among the Pro cutters.

 

[spike60]

C'mon guys, no reason to get testy here. We're just talkin' saws.

Everyone is making some valid points. The potential of the 359/2159 when modded isn't being questioned here. But as Sawtroll and I have pointed out, not everyone wants to deal with mods, or having to buy another muffler for a brand new saw. Most people would feel that if a saw has to be modded to perform well, then there is something wrong with it. Why should a customer have to un-E-tech an E-tech saw to get it to run right?

I don't mean to dis anyone who has a 359/2159, (we sell them both), but to me the fact that it responds so well to mods sort of proves that it isn't all that impressive out of the box. In stock form, it's far more of a slug compared to the 357, than the 365 ever was to the 372.

"Trigger time". Anybody actually have some trigger time with the 460? Guys, it's a runner. It outcuts a 359 E-tech. It's not as well built as the 359, but it's a great saw for it's intended customer. There have been no warranty issues with any of the 455/460's we have sold. You might as well embrace it, 'cause the 460, and X-torque, will be around a lot longer than the 359.

MAG58: Thanks for always pointing out the Jonsered alternative. The Reds' should be closer in popularity to the Husky's than they are.

 

[MAG58]

C'mon guys, no reason to get testy here. We're just talkin' saws.

Everyone is making some valid points. The potential of the 359/2159 when modded isn't being questioned here. But as Sawtroll and I have pointed out, not everyone wants to deal with mods, or having to buy another muffler for a brand new saw. Most people would feel that if a saw has to be modded to perform well, then there is something wrong with it. Why should a customer have to un-E-tech an E-tech saw to get it to run right?

I don't mean to dis anyone who has a 359/2159, (we sell them both), but to me the fact that it responds so well to mods sort of proves that it isn't all that impressive out of the box. In stock form, it's far more of a slug compared to the 357, than the 365 ever was to the 372.

"Trigger time". Anybody actually have some trigger time with the 460? Guys, it's a runner. It outcuts a 359 E-tech. It's not as well built as the 359, but it's a great saw for it's intended customer. There have been no warranty issues with any of the 455/460's we have sold. You might as well embrace it, 'cause the 460, and X-torque, will be around a lot longer than the 359.

MAG58: Thanks for always pointing out the Jonsered alternative. The Reds' should be closer in popularity to the Husky's than they are.

Well I have a hard time whit that outcut, but I will believe that a 359 E-tech/2159 Cat is not a good runner, but I have one 2159 and it surprise me weary positively, and it's a powerful saw, but maybe that's cos it's not a Cat(E-tech)
And I think the Red one's is nicer saw's

 

[timberwolf]

On the 460 fair enough, jury is still out on it. If one can live with the lower end parts and lower life span, than it may be the saw on price point.

However I can not see any logic in electing to use a 365 esp the open port one with a rev limiter when there is a model with an extra 10% displacement that cuts significantly quicker in exactly the same package. Lets face it the 365 is a big chunk of a saw for 65 cc, and it is not much ahead of a 357 or 359 with the muffler issue taken care of.

Pumping modded saws here a bit, but a modded 359 will cost about what a 372 will including the cost of having the porting professionally done. it will cut with a stock 372 easy and weigh in a good bit less.

 

[MAG58]

The X-torque saw,s, will be around a lot longer than the 359 yes, cos they are the new generation of saw's. But now I running Pro style saw's, and I think I will end up whit the 2147 and 2156 as well (before they disappear)

 

[Urbicide]

C'mon guys, no reason to get testy here. We're just talkin' saws.

Everyone is making some valid points. The potential of the 359/2159 when modded isn't being questioned here. But as Sawtroll and I have pointed out, not everyone wants to deal with mods, or having to buy another muffler for a brand new saw. Most people would feel that if a saw has to be modded to perform well, then there is something wrong with it.

Sure. You don't have to change anything. I came of age in the 70's. You could go out and buy a new GM car ( or Ford or MoPar) that would run just fine. Now you could yank off the QuadraJet carb and cast iron intake manifold and mount up an aluminum Eldebrock manifold and Holley 4-barrel carb. Change out the stock cam for a Crane or Isky model. Wack off the catalytic converter, if so equipped, and install a dual-exhaust system complete with a pair of low restriction mufflers. Pull the stock cast iron exhaust manifolds and get yourself a set of Hedman or Hooker headers.Yank the factory distributor and stick in a Mallory or Accel unit. Got to change out the wheels and tires. You can change a lot of stuff. But the car ran fine before you did all of this. Some people are content with oem. Some are not. Some people are happy driving 55 mph. I know I am not. Why change something that functions as designed? For improved performance, to be different from the next guy, and because you can.

 

[Urbicide]

Why should a customer have to un-E-tech an E-tech saw to get it to run right?

EPA Thank them.

 

[WayneOhio1]

Husky 460/359/365

he he i stated this by saying i had a 55 Rancher that runs great but kinda bogs when cutting hard 10/12'' logs chain is sharp it cuts but seems i have to work it . I am thinking of a 359 or 365 but seems they all have flaws i mean power issues Exept the big pro saws. I did have a 346xp i did not like it. it bogged down to on 12'' logs and hard wood. On hard wood i felt the chain ran so fast it was burning the chain. I think the 359 would be a little better then the 346xp. But i'm just a home owner i have woods cut firewood and downed trees for fun. I'd like a more powerful saw and stay under $600

 

[Cam501]

Also, as we have discussed in other threads, Husky/Jonsered have yet to change a power rating of any saw they have put a cat muffler on.

Let me clarify my last post guys. I am not saying that the 460 is the better saw. Obviously, the 359 is a better built saw. The 460 will cut with it though, and I think it is a better value for the personal firewood cutter. I think the 359 E-tech is a dud out of the box, and outside of the AS world, Joe Customer doesn't want to hear that he needs to buy another muffler and/or do mods to make the saw perform.

The reason that dealers are discounting them is due to that value idea. (the "power price" difference is $80) The more serious buyers are buying the 346's and 357's. The 359 used to sell to that personal firewood guy who wanted something larger than a 50 CC saw with an 18" bar. That business has almost completely shifted to the 455/460. So, the 359 is for the most part the odd man out here.

I'm actually kind of puzzled by the 359's popularity among members here. It would seem that especially in this forum, the overwhelming choice would be the 357, in much the same way that most members have always ignored the 365 in favor of the 372. Why wouldn't the same logic apply to the 359/357 ?

I don't know about your area, but around here the husky's are a lot more common than the jonsered's because we have few dealers for jonsered. I'm also intrigued that you carry both. We've been told if you have one you can't have the other. On a tangent...what's you opinion of using 20" bars on the 455/460 saws? I prefer 18" but most customers want the longer bar here.

 

[SawTroll]

.... I'd like a more powerful saw and stay under $600

Take a look at the MS361 - it has very close to the power of the 365 in the US (the exact same here), and it actually weights less than the 359.......:help: :help:

You should like that one......

 

[timberwolf]

To be blunt about it, if the saw is bogging in that size wood, and you are experiencing chain burning issues, I would realy do a double check on a couple things. (just trying to help)

1 chain, if it is sharpened right you should not be pushing much, it should not be geting scortched unless you have bar oiler problems. Chain speed on a 359 or 346 are the same, so I don't see any reason there would be a difference.

2 muffler screen, if this is pluged up you could have a bogger of a time.

3 Tuning, if your running too rich it could cause some trouble to, Is the plug coco brown or tar black?

4 See many people miss this, but maybe you are pushing too hard, once the saw drops down to 7k to 8k RPM the engine has less potential to do work, the idea is to sharpen the chain and set the rakers so that the saw will want to run at the RPM it produces peek HP. That will get the most work done (fastest cuts).

If you have those things in order a 50-60 cc should do fine for that sized wood, though your going to have to expect it to slow down in a 12 oak or rock maple.

Before running out for a new saw why not try opening up a muffler?

 

[spike60]

EPA Thank them.

I'm afraid that the real problem will be running tomorrows fuel in yesterdays saws.