I'll be the first to admit it.. I'm not all that and a slice of bread when it comes to saws. I've cut for money, I've cut for my own uses, but I've always thought that you shouldn't have to push the saw through the cut. Pushing the saw blade ( IMHO ) , just taxes the bar, and means that the saw chain isn't properly sharpened, or, that the rakers ( depth gauges) are off. You'll have to dress the bar, and there's a loss of productivity.
. I have sharpened literally, a thousand saw chains, and I've always told my crew, "If you have to push it, it's done". Gimme the damn thing and let me make it right. ( they climb and slave, I manage and supervise). I had a Poulan ( it belonged to a home owner) that wouldn't do anything but spit dust. ( he was "helping" on the job).. I gave him one of my chains, and it wouldn't cut.. it just stalled in the cut if you didn't lift it a bit. It cut fine in the Echo I took it off of. So, too much depth, not enough power.
I can't imagine having to push a saw blade into the cut.. Sure.. maybe rock it back and forth a bit.. But Push?? Never..
But still, the Stihls (old school), just have that old school grunt, that makes them different to use than other saws. I usually set them so that they will run for about 30 seconds, before they start to load up, but, that makes them come on so much harder when you hit the throttle. The Echos' won't be happy with that kind of carb setting. They'll start to load up, but then just die when you hit he throttle, unless you free rev them first.
I'm gonna have to look into the philbert thing.. For sure. A chain can never be too sharp.
For my stock stuff, I've been using the Stihl 2 in 1 .. can't beat it for repeatable results.
. I have sharpened literally, a thousand saw chains, and I've always told my crew, "If you have to push it, it's done". Gimme the damn thing and let me make it right. ( they climb and slave, I manage and supervise). I had a Poulan ( it belonged to a home owner) that wouldn't do anything but spit dust. ( he was "helping" on the job).. I gave him one of my chains, and it wouldn't cut.. it just stalled in the cut if you didn't lift it a bit. It cut fine in the Echo I took it off of. So, too much depth, not enough power.
I can't imagine having to push a saw blade into the cut.. Sure.. maybe rock it back and forth a bit.. But Push?? Never..
But still, the Stihls (old school), just have that old school grunt, that makes them different to use than other saws. I usually set them so that they will run for about 30 seconds, before they start to load up, but, that makes them come on so much harder when you hit the throttle. The Echos' won't be happy with that kind of carb setting. They'll start to load up, but then just die when you hit he throttle, unless you free rev them first.
I'm gonna have to look into the philbert thing.. For sure. A chain can never be too sharp.
For my stock stuff, I've been using the Stihl 2 in 1 .. can't beat it for repeatable results.
