I need a larger chainsaw

[Timber MacFallen]

Anyone can send me unopened STIHL oil for 'environmentally friendly disposal.' (in my saw)

Duluth Trading Company also ('outdoor hipster' clothing for wearing indoors, i guess).

Both John Deere and Duluth Trading Company are big sponsors of STIHL Timersports, but I kind of feel it's like Harley-Davidson letting Budwiser into its bed after Bud went all Dylan Mulvaney.

None of the Duluth stores in the Northeast are in major cities and they tend to be many miles from the hipster/trendy/youth crowd. Honestly, they're known for catering towards tradesmen and being popular with the over age 50 crowd in my neck of the woods. I've visited their stores before and they're usually filled with older guys or retired folks.

Their Fire Hose pants are damn tough and they make some of the thickest/toughest jeans I've tried which are also pretty comfy. I own some of their stuff and it seems very well made. A tip though: if you sign up with them at their website and buy something they start sending out big discount coupons for 30-40% off all the time and have 50% sales now and then. Never pay full retail at Duluth.

 

[Bill G]

None of the Duluth stores in the Northeast are in major cities and they tend to be many miles from the hipster/trendy/youth crowd. Honestly, they're known for catering towards tradesmen and being popular with the over age 50 crowd in my neck of the woods. I've visited their stores before and they're usually filled with older guys or retired folks.

Their Fire Hose pants are damn tough and they make some of the thickest/toughest jeans I've tried which are also pretty comfy. I own some of their stuff and it seems very well made. A tip though: if you sign up with them at their website and buy something they start sending out big discount coupons for 30-40% off all the time and have 50% sales now and then. Never pay full retail at Duluth.

My wife and I were headed to a saw race years ago and stopped by a Duluth store. I was floored at the prices. I noticed the older gentleman that was working was not wearing their clothing. I asked why, he said I can't afford it.

 

[Hermio]

500i handles beautifully and is compact and light for its size! Very light for its displacement. It felt plenty torquey to me and was incredible. It had one terrible flaw though. Starting it sucks. So much so that I put it back in the truck and grabbed my ol’ non strato 372xp. The xp was way low or torque compared to the 500i, it was also heavier and has less displacement. But ….it started first pull Everytime. I had to pull that damn 500i 4 times every time. F’ that.

Mine takes a lot of pulls and usually stalls out after 1 or 2 seconds when cold. Once it runs for more than 2 seconds it is ready to go and starts in 1 pull when warm. But it is aggravating. The fast cutting speed makes up for it though.

 

[Hermio]

The manual says to prime even when warm. I dont think its actually a primer but pressurizes the injection system

You are correct. That is why it is impossible to flood it.

 

[Hermio]

Not in the last 2 years from a dealer.

Yes, from a dealer. I bought it in 2021 from Bane-Welker equipment in Wilmington, Ohio. They had only one in stock.

 

[thomasinvancouver]

The 500i is junk unless you get it ported, it's lightweight but uses a ton of fuel, and filter gets dirty quickly and if your wood is really hard and cuts powdery if dry it'll get inside the carb.. it's also awfully expensive.. for that price I'd get a 592 and call it done, 592 makes gobs of power and if you can get around the weight difference it's great. Tank of fuel typically lasts twice as long as the 500 (or more) and filter is much better. They had issues at husky with the 1st years saws but they've been fixed. Even a ported 572 or 372 puts out more power than the stock 500i and costs couple hundred less all told. But if money is no object and weight is top concern gotta get that 500i ported if that's what you choose (or try it with the 400 first they gain real nicely) just my 2 cents as I own a 550xp 572xp and 592xp and have ran the 500i both before and after my cousin had it ported.

I bought the 592 over a 500 and 661. Now I have a 572 also.

 

[rngrchad]

Mine takes a lot of pulls and usually stalls out after 1 or 2 seconds when cold. Once it runs for more than 2 seconds it is ready to go and starts in 1 pull when warm. But it is aggravating. The fast cutting speed makes up for it though.

For sure man that 500i rips so good and feels so small and nimble. Absolute stunner of a power package for its physical size. Kinda unreal to be honest. Motor and chassis seems so good!

 

[ace4059]

I tried out the 500i last night. I ran almost two tanks of fuel through her. It has more power that’s for sure but I was still running into a few spots where the wood would catch the chain while ripping with the grain.
I would guess ripping takes lots of power to pull the chain. But on regular cuts across the grain it had plenty of power.

I have several more pieces of wood that were from the trunk of a large pecan that are 18” long but so large around I cut them in 1/4’s to load them on the trailer. The 25” bar still won’t go all the way through on the cut. I’m having to rip them into smaller pieces so my 30 ton splitter can handle them.

I inspected inside the air filter, sure enough fine dust was getting in. The new filter will be here Friday.

Would a skip chain be better for these cuts?

 

[SAWMIKAZE]

Yes, from a dealer. I bought it in 2021 from Bane-Welker equipment in Wilmington, Ohio. They had only one in stock.

In 22 and 23 ( the last 2 years ) the prices on stihl saws shot up quite a bit.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

Well, a lot of guys like 'em [MS 500i] and think they're the cat's ass, though most any saw has fans that love that particular saw for personal reasons. I was looking at a 500i but like more torque (whereas it seems to be more about RPMs for speed). I'd like more time on a 500i to get a better feel for them.

How many cuts do you think you've made with a 462 and a 500 ?

I tried out the 500i last night. I ran almost two tanks of fuel through her. It has more power that’s for sure but I was still running into a few spots where the wood would catch the chain while ripping with the grain.

I would guess ripping takes lots of power to pull the chain. But on regular cuts across the grain it had plenty of power.

I inspected inside the air filter, sure enough fine dust was getting in. The new filter will be here Friday.

Would a skip chain be better for these cuts?

@SAWMIKAZE : Well, I guess enough to know the little I know is "somewhat" accurate.

Seriously though, I don't know as much as the skilled guys who do this for a living, I simply try to be helpful where I can and mostly learn from others.

 

[SAWMIKAZE]

@SAWMIKAZE : Well, I guess enough to know the little I know is "somewhat" accurate.

Seriously though, I don't know as much as the skilled guys who do this for a living, I simply try to be helpful where I can and mostly learn from others.

I have no idea what quoting those posts even means.

His 500 is more powerful than his 400 ? It better be or something is really wrong.

That doesn't change the fact that there is no major discernable difference between a 500 and a 462 with a 24" bar at all other things being equal. That might make some people's vaginas hurt but it just is what it is.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

I tried out the 500i last night. I ran almost two tanks of fuel through her. It has more power that’s for sure but I was still running into a few spots where the wood would catch the chain while ripping with the grain.
I would guess ripping takes lots of power to pull the chain. But on regular cuts across the grain it had plenty of power.

I have several more pieces of wood that were from the trunk of a large pecan that are 18” long but so large around I cut them in 1/4’s to load them on the trailer. The 25” bar still won’t go all the way through on the cut. I’m having to rip them into smaller pieces so my 30 ton splitter can handle them.

I inspected inside the air filter, sure enough fine dust was getting in. The new filter will be here Friday.

Would a skip chain be better for these cuts?

The 500i seems to be focused more on speed than torque. I've had luck changing from a full chisel chain to a less grabby semi chisel chain in cross-cuts, but I don't have experience in noodling, maybe that doesn't apply here. If I remember correctly the skip chain was more for noodle clearing when clogging was an issue?

 

[ace4059]

I learned new logging/firewood definitions. Noodling and Ripping.
So by definition, I am just ripping the quarters to make them more manageable so I am able to move them by myself. They are old and dry and no longer produce the wood noodles, just the fine dust. But that could be the way I’m cutting them and the way the grain runs. Wood has 12%-16% moisture content.

I’ve already learned a lot off this thread.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I learned new logging/firewood definitions. Noodling and Ripping.
So by definition, I am just ripping the quarters to make them more manageable so I am able to move them by myself. They are old and dry and no longer produce the wood noodles, just the fine dust. But that could be the way I’m cutting them and the way the grain runs. Wood has 12%-16% moisture content.

I’ve already learned a lot off this thread.

Noodling is ripping- it is just a term coined by the large strings of wood fibre versus chips. You should still get noodles off of dry timber- are you cutting the bucked rounds as standing up rounds or laying flat rounds?

 

[ace4059]

They are standing up.
The definitions I read were: ripping was when the log was vertical and noodling was horizontal.

 

[StihlPotlicker]

I need a larger saw, maybe it’s just a want.
I have a Stihl MS 261 CM and a MS 400 CM and I am looking for something a little bigger. I am disappointed in the 400.
Does it cut? Yes and it runs great but it's not head over heels more powerful than the 261.

A little background,
Firewood is poor quality in North Texas and the price is outrageous.
I cut 6 cords each year for me and immediate family.
My cousin and I like to take one or two weekends and cut all our wood and haul it a family members house where he spits all the wood for us. Basically we want to done quickly and efficiently because it costs money to take off from work.

I want something that will run a 24" bar. Main use is for firewood (all hardwood) a few weekends a year, and then a few days of use for storm clean up per year.
Tree size around here that I cut is usually 24"-40" and it's mainly Oak and Pecan. I have only had to cut two trees over 40" due to a storm so that's the only exception.

I want to upgrade to a saw that will cut faster and more efficient, so I was looking at the MS 462 CM and the MS 500i. I want something that will run a 24" chain without struggling.

From what I gathered from my research is;
The 462 costs less, has more vibration, has better air filter, and uses less fuel than the 500i.
The 500i is more powerful, has an air filter that easily clogs, drinks fuel, and everyone, including people that haven't used either saw just scream buy the 500i.

The cost between the two isn't a concern to me, neither does the amount of fuel it uses.
I would prefer the less weight of the 462 and less vibration but I am concerned that it won't be much more powerful than my 400. Then, I will say I wished I would have went with the 500i.
Has any upgrade been done or design changes to the 500i to fix the air filter problems?
Is the 500i proven yet?

How is the 462 going to compare to the 400? More powerful? how much more power? 5cc's doesn't seem like much difference.
Go with the 500i, or will a 24" bar matter on those big saws?
Which one overall between the 462 and 500 is the nicer saw and easier to use?
Saws will remain stock, with no mods.
I do like the m-tronics.
We only have a Stihl dealer around so that is what I will be sticking with.

Any input with an explanation or reason of what chainsaw would be best for me, would be helpful and appreciated.
Thanks,
Ryan

it's a want LOL. But you should really consider getting your 400 ported, you could easily run a 28"B/C. I would go with a 500i over the 462, since you have the 400, send the 400 out to get ported and you probably won't run the 500i much after getting your 400 back. or just buy 462 and the 500i like me, and then depending on the day you can use the 400, 462, or the 500i

 

[Chucksta]

Torque vs .. I don't know .. whatever you want to call it.. Grunt.. balls, pull in a cut.. Torque profile.. chain speed, etc.

I run some Stihl ( old school ) and some Echo stuff. I had a buddy came by, to help drop a problem child tree. He was used to nothing but Stihl saws. My old school Stihl saws are tuned for low end grunt, ( like his are), and my Echo stuff is pretty much stock, so they like to cut best when they are let to rev out. He kept on bogging the Echos' , and couldn't get used to the idea of letting the saw run the way it wants to run.

I guess my point is, is that when you talk about how a saw runs.. How much of that is subjective observation, based on your user experience? When you try out a new saw, do you expect it to run like another brand, or, do you try and keep an open mind, and let it be it's own dog?

The only Echo stuff my buddy liked, was the Timber wolf, and the 355 T ( for limbing).. He just kept bogging the other ones out. I'd use them and have no problems. How much does perception, and pre-conceived expectations cloud the reality of assessment of something that doesn't run the way that you're used to? Every saw is it's own dog.

I know that when I use the Stihl stuff I own, I definitely run them differently than the Echo stuff.

Yeah.. I know.. Kinda off topic, but I noticed so many opinions on this thread about how stuff pulled in a cut, fuel consumption, production, etc.

Not looking to start a flame war, just wondering if there were some opinions about that.

 

[OM617YOTA]

Torque vs .. I don't know .. whatever you want to call it.. Grunt.. balls, pull in a cut.. Torque profile.. chain speed, etc.

I run some Stihl ( old school ) and some Echo stuff. I had a buddy came by, to help drop a problem child tree. He was used to nothing but Stihl saws. My old school Stihl saws are tuned for low end grunt, ( like his are), and my Echo stuff is pretty much stock, so they like to cut best when they are let to rev out. He kept on bogging the Echos' , and couldn't get used to the idea of letting the saw run the way it wants to run.

I guess my point is, is that when you talk about how a saw runs.. How much of that is subjective observation, based on your user experience? When you try out a new saw, do you expect it to run like another brand, or, do you try and keep an open mind, and let it be it's own dog?

The only Echo stuff my buddy liked, was the Timber wolf, and the 355 T ( for limbing).. He just kept bogging the other ones out. I'd use them and have no problems. How much does perception, and pre-conceived expectations cloud the reality of assessment of something that doesn't run the way that you're used to? Every saw is it's own dog.

I know that when I use the Stihl stuff I own, I definitely run them differently than the Echo stuff.

Yeah.. I know.. Kinda off topic, but I noticed so many opinions on this thread about how stuff pulled in a cut, fuel consumption, production, etc.

Not looking to start a flame war, just wondering if there were some opinions about that.

It's the same deal with any machine. I drive my big block powered pickup truck very differently than I drove my high strung sports cars. Anyone who operates machinery should be able to pick up on this pretty quick, but not all do.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

Torque vs .. I don't know .. whatever you want to call it.. Grunt.. balls, pull in a cut.. Torque profile.. chain speed, etc.

I run some Stihl ( old school ) and some Echo stuff. I had a buddy came by, to help drop a problem child tree. He was used to nothing but Stihl saws. My old school Stihl saws are tuned for low end grunt, ( like his are), and my Echo stuff is pretty much stock, so they like to cut best when they are let to rev out. He kept on bogging the Echos' , and couldn't get used to the idea of letting the saw run the way it wants to run.

I guess my point is, is that when you talk about how a saw runs.. How much of that is subjective observation, based on your user experience? When you try out a new saw, do you expect it to run like another brand, or, do you try and keep an open mind, and let it be it's own dog?

The only Echo stuff my buddy liked, was the Timber wolf, and the 355 T ( for limbing).. He just kept bogging the other ones out. I'd use them and have no problems. How much does perception, and pre-conceived expectations cloud the reality of assessment of something that doesn't run the way that you're used to? Every saw is it's own dog.

I know that when I use the Stihl stuff I own, I definitely run them differently than the Echo stuff.

Yeah.. I know.. Kinda off topic, but I noticed so many opinions on this thread about how stuff pulled in a cut, fuel consumption, production, etc.

Not looking to start a flame war, just wondering if there were some opinions about that.

You make a great point; I see people do what you're saying and not adjust their cut. My neighbor keeps doing that with his push mower, he'll have to pull start it every 5 seconds or so for the whole lawn, literally: every 5 seconds he's pushed it a mower length and bogged it into a stall so pull-starts it again. Why he can't figure it out I don't know. Some guys with saws are the same, imagine what their clutches must look like!

Every saw I own self-feeds due to filing chains like @Philbert taught me. Other guys saws feed different, the ported Huskies I ran beg for you to treat 'em like a lounge chase and put your full weight on 'em.

 

[Chucksta]

You make a great point; I see people do what you're saying and not adjust their cut. My neighbor keeps doing that with his push mower, he'll have to pull start it every 5 seconds or so for the whole lawn, literally: every 5 seconds he's pushed it a mower length and bogged it into a stall so pull-starts it again. Why he can't figure it out I don't know. Some guys with saws are the same, imagine what their clutches must look like!

Every saw I own self-feeds due to filing chains like @Philbert taught me. Other guys saws feed different, the ported Huskies I ran beg for you to treat 'em like a lounge chase and put your full weight on 'em.

It's the same deal with any machine. I drive my big block powered pickup truck very differently than I drove my high strung sports cars. Anyone who operates machinery should be able to pick up on this pretty quick, but not all do.

You make a great point; I see people do what you're saying and not adjust their cut. My neighbor keeps doing that with his push mower, he'll have to pull start it every 5 seconds or so for the whole lawn, literally: every 5 seconds he's pushed it a mower length and bogged it into a stall so pull-starts it again. Why he can't figure it out I don't know. Some guys with saws are the same, imagine what their clutches must look like!

Every saw I own self-feeds due to filing chains like @Philbert taught me. Other guys saws feed different, the ported Huskies I ran beg for you to treat 'em like a lounge chase and put your full weight on 'em.

You make a great point; I see people do what you're saying and not adjust their cut. My neighbor keeps doing that with his push mower, he'll have to pull start it every 5 seconds or so for the whole lawn, literally: every 5 seconds he's pushed it a mower length and bogged it into a stall so pull-starts it again. Why he can't figure it out I don't know. Some guys with saws are the same, imagine what their clutches must look like!

Every saw I own self-feeds due to filing chains like @Philbert taught me. Other guys saws feed different, the ported Huskies I ran beg for you to treat 'em like a lounge chase and put your full weight on 'em.