There are many that don’t that people think do. Sticking with known GOOD o p e specific oils negates this - especially for someone who doesn’t want to delve into the rabbit hole.
I see Klotz is still around...
- Thread starter Sidecarflip
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Absolutely if handing over way more money for little to zero benefit is not of any concern.
In some cases they are cheaper than oem branded oils.
Husquarna xp & Stihl Premium & Echo's Powerblend & Red Armor are the only oem saw oils i would recommend at a fair price point
i often read all the other posts....
but, in general, only listen to what Nw has to say!
he and i same page couple things for sure. never can have too clean of oil but sure can have too dirty of oil! and when the daily call for lubricity arrives, ie
it's always a call for...
flatplains
ArboristSite Lurker
I've been using Klotz R50 for years in most everything. I don't use it because I think it's needed, but because I already have it. Most of my mixed gas gets run in my dirtbike. By comparison my chainsaw, weed whip, and lawn mower hardly use anything. I easily burn a 5 gallon can on a good weekend of riding. 5 gallons lasts everything else a long time. So I just run the same gas in everything. Last winter I had the engine on my Lawnboy mower out to fix a stripped out bolt hole, and pulled the crank/piston out to I could work on the jug. The thing was as clean as any engine I've ever seen, and it runs a steady low maybe 3000 rpm with hardly any load cutting grass. I've ran nothing but R50 40:1 in it for the last 3 years. Exhaust only had minimal carbon build up. Never had any issues with either chainsaw or weed whip. If anything it seems to do better than most as far as clogging the exhaust screen. R50 is a good all around oil that will work pre-mixed in just about anything, I've even used it boat motors.
Now would I purposefully buy R50 for small engines like chainsaws? Probably not. Stihl oil is insanely expensive, but unless you buy it by the gallon, who cares? A 6 pack of those Stihl little 6.4oz bottles would last most people a really long time. I'm not sure what a professional would do. I would think either pony up for the popular oils like Stihl or Husqvarna, or just run the cheapest stuff I could find. I can't imagine a professional running R50.
Now would I purposefully buy R50 for small engines like chainsaws? Probably not. Stihl oil is insanely expensive, but unless you buy it by the gallon, who cares? A 6 pack of those Stihl little 6.4oz bottles would last most people a really long time. I'm not sure what a professional would do. I would think either pony up for the popular oils like Stihl or Husqvarna, or just run the cheapest stuff I could find. I can't imagine a professional running R50.
I ran a D600 lawn boy on R50 for two seasons at 32:1 it left a fruity haze everywhere it never fouled a plug but the exhaust didn't rust either 
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Better experience than with your Benol lol where you previously mentioned only mineral & synethitic oil for youI ran a D600 lawn boy on R50 for two seasons at 32:1 it left a fruity haze everywhere it never fouled a plug but the exhaust didn't rust either
In a dirt bike that is tuned crisp & kept wicked up & on the pipe , fouling would be marginal . Same tune & trail riding , different outcome . Lawnboys are notorious for liking heavier mix ratio's , however are also known for seasonally required muffler cleaning , especially if put under heavier load conditions & not tuned accordingly . Any heavier viscosity oil is best utilized in extreme rpm & load ( heat) service . Hotsaws or competitive race saw applications would be the only usage , i believe castor oils may have any merits , otherwise just a poor oil selection in my opinion !
flatplains
ArboristSite Lurker
I race Enduro and hare scramble, and trail ride single track. My bike isn't getting rung out too often. R50 is a great all around oil that doesn't foul. It's one of the best I've found for power valves. Will other Klotz oils behave the same? No. But I can recommend R50 for lawn and tree equipment. It won't cause problems. I'm basing that opinion on engines I've taken apart and inspected myself.
I have no problems with R50.Better experience than with your Benol lol where you previously mentioned only mineral & synethitic oil for you
Benol is only good for door hinges.
Only clean Klotz oil I have ever witnessed is Techniplate which is only a FC oil , which is an non castor oil . Super Techniplate which is a blend synthetic which is 20 % Benol I utilized briefly running drag sleds . Still left soft deposits within the power valves . R50 I ran running Sno Pro on a 650 RXL , dirty oil that however protected engine throughout the race till weekly tear downs were conducted & the entire team switched to Quakerstate Synthetic mid season . All my xcross bikes & Enduro's ran Shell 2T or Yamalube .
flatplains
ArboristSite Lurker
Strange, I don't put stop at a specific time, but I go 150 to 200 hours on a top end, which can be multiple years. R50 is definitely very clean in that instance.
I'm sure R50 is not the same formula as when you ran it.
Those heavy oils like R50, which is a 50w oil just don't work that great in a saw.KIM'S. In a Lawnboy mower that are completely the wrong type of oil.
Often oils like R50, H1R, etc actually make less power In saws and other power equipment.
Even in bikes R50 isn't that great.
In regards to results trail riding. Certain bikes like the last generation Yz250 and the Cr500 burn just about anything fairly clean with a dry exhaust. The opposite would be the last two generations of cr250 and pretty much all KTM's.
rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
I've used R-50 for over a decade in my saws and weed trimmers at 36:1 and have NEVER had any issues at all. No reason to change now.
Mike
Mike
Yeah , that's pretty well what I have identified Ben . Castor was a bandaid for poor heat transfer characteristics of pre Nikisil cylinders & as a gall prevention additive . As I said when I ran R50 in my lawnboy , I had a 30 minute muffler clean out after 2 tanks lol . Actually , when I ran Benol it was within a alcohol fueled drag sled , teardowns were routine & required . Unfortunately with these highly modified 650 & 800 c.c. Class sleds & premium mineral FC quality oil were not sufficient to be considered reliable for competition during that time . I have no problems with non or low % caster Klotz Techniplate & Blended Super Techniplate , however believe there are even better choice of oils for the same or better price point for these applications today !
I would be surprised if the R50 recipe has changed Jake , unfortunately MSDS to determine chemical composition was not available in the 70's & mid 80's when I used Semi castor oil products . Ben most likely could validate that formula composition more readily since that's more in his wheel house lol. I only recall the engine cleanliness was tedious no matter of the tune & reliability outcome in competition was the only saving grace brother .
Dependant on fuel ( gas vs alcohol ) 50 hrs was max within sled tear downs for decarbonizing . Some cycle teams in the open class always tore down weekly vs every two weeks . On a race weekend a oval sled engine could see 10 hrs run time easily between time trial , 5-10 lap heat races & 25 -50 lap main feature race dependant on the race venue . A Enduro / xc sled would do the same in one single event . Eagle River & Peterbough & Alexandria would easily be over 50 engine hours not even including tuning tech time . If your putting that amount of hrs with no deposit or gumming than the recipe has definitely changed ,
perhaps an ester additive package in the new R50 ?
