I take it the OP must have washed the bar and chain as I don`t see any evidence of bar oil on either one. No oil and a new bar and chain will soon look like the one he has on the saw.
Is It The Bar or The Chain?
- Thread starter Husky Joe
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Husky Joe
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Between the beatup bar and the chain(s), I’m probably going to upgrade and start with a clean slate. I have a collection of a half a dozen chains from over the last 11 years; some 16 inch and some 18 inch. They are all probably pretty beat. I’ve cut about 50 cords of wood in that time.
My Husky seems to be well lubricated; I fill up the oil when I fill up the gas. I have the oiler set on the highest setting. It heats up when it gets bound up when cutting at that crazy angle.
I’m looking at those SugiHara bars but the 16 inch bars look like they are running a .325 pitch, .050 gauge and 66 drive links? I get lost on the compatibility charts. My 359’s current setup for a 16 inch bar is 60 drive links, .375 pitch, and .058 gauge. Also, I believe my 359 is a “small mount?” I will take the advice and have a new clutch sprocket installed prior to any upgrade. Is the clutch sprocket “gauge specific?” In other words, is there a .050 clutch sprocket and a .058 clutch sprocket?
I’ll try to attach a few photos of the sprocket but I don’t think I would bother buying a new sprocket given the condition of the bar.
I appreciate the help and I will dig in on the finer points. I’ve just always been one of those guys who sharpens the chain, fills ‘er up with gas and oil, and then I get cutting.
My Husky seems to be well lubricated; I fill up the oil when I fill up the gas. I have the oiler set on the highest setting. It heats up when it gets bound up when cutting at that crazy angle.
I’m looking at those SugiHara bars but the 16 inch bars look like they are running a .325 pitch, .050 gauge and 66 drive links? I get lost on the compatibility charts. My 359’s current setup for a 16 inch bar is 60 drive links, .375 pitch, and .058 gauge. Also, I believe my 359 is a “small mount?” I will take the advice and have a new clutch sprocket installed prior to any upgrade. Is the clutch sprocket “gauge specific?” In other words, is there a .050 clutch sprocket and a .058 clutch sprocket?
I’ll try to attach a few photos of the sprocket but I don’t think I would bother buying a new sprocket given the condition of the bar.
I appreciate the help and I will dig in on the finer points. I’ve just always been one of those guys who sharpens the chain, fills ‘er up with gas and oil, and then I get cutting.
That bar is a good quality bar, to get it hot enough to blue it that far in you have to get them very hot. If your chain is not throwing big chips, the bar is smoking, or you are cutting a curve then there is something wrong, cease cutting until you fix it! Running a saw under these conditions is hard on the saw as well as the bar, chain, sprocket, and you.
First thing I would suggest is finding another member in your area who can teach you how to properly maintain your saw, having the right tools is half of it and the other half is having the knowledge to use them properly.
Here's how a stock 359 cuts with a cat muffler and the limiters in place, yours with the muffler modded and the limiters trimmed should cut a good bit faster.
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The sprocket teeth of the sprocket on your saw, was the one I was talking about. Since you had to have a link removed, it is a safe bet that it is wore out.
D
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Drive sprocket is not gauge specific. They are pitch specific.
Does anyone else think that's a lo-pro sprocket on that bar?
homemade
Certified Chainsaw Tester
No. A flat file will work. But it’s kind of like free hand filing a chain. It can be done but it’s better if you use a jig or holder of sorts.
Husky Joe
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HarleyT, I think this is what you are looking for?
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Nah...I think it's the high speed muffler bearing.
Hey Brett.
So does that mean you think it is a low pro sprocket?
That bar has been pinched is why its discolored. Im sure somebody makes a gauge and a tool to fix it, I myself use the chainsaw screwdriver (cant stand that stupid word scrench) and whatever is handy to drive it in the bar slot to open it back up by eye.
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The bars are "discolored"/treated before they are painted. There may be extra wear/heat from the boogered up drive links from the wore out sprocket, but if you take off the paint off of most new bars, you will see discolored metal.....
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I say "most" new bars, as many new bars are just aftermarket crap.......
Well there's a couple of nutbar's !
...
err ...um, bar nuts.:-(
...
err ...um, bar nuts.:-(
That just means I can tell I should duck as your throwing ideas out tonight lol.
I have used a flat file and a vise, but once I tried the Oregon tool (video above) I got spoiled. I just use it on the side of a bench; no vise needed. Works in the field.
Here is how I replace the files:
Philbert
Here is how I replace the files:
Philbert
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"The Oregon Tool" is an outspoken member here!!!
