Canyon Angler
Addicted to ArboristSite
Philbert - How are you cutting or breaking those files without farking up the temper? Are you just scoring them and then breaking them?
Take some pictures looking down at the edges of the bar, if the one side of the rail is thicker than the other on either side of the groove then the bar is rat *****, the chains will more than likely be stuffed as well as they wear unevenly to the bar & will not cut straight even on a new bar & will wreck it as well.Between the beatup bar and the chain(s), I’m probably going to upgrade and start with a clean slate. I have a collection of a half a dozen chains from over the last 11 years; some 16 inch and some 18 inch. They are all probably pretty beat. I’ve cut about 50 cords of wood in that time.
My Husky seems to be well lubricated; I fill up the oil when I fill up the gas. I have the oiler set on the highest setting. It heats up when it gets bound up when cutting at that crazy angle.
I’m looking at those SugiHara bars but the 16 inch bars look like they are running a .325 pitch, .050 gauge and 66 drive links? I get lost on the compatibility charts. My 359’s current setup for a 16 inch bar is 60 drive links, .375 pitch, and .058 gauge. Also, I believe my 359 is a “small mount?” I will take the advice and have a new clutch sprocket installed prior to any upgrade. Is the clutch sprocket “gauge specific?” In other words, is there a .050 clutch sprocket and a .058 clutch sprocket?
I’ll try to attach a few photos of the sprocket but I don’t think I would bother buying a new sprocket given the condition of the bar.
I appreciate the help and I will dig in on the finer points. I’ve just always been one of those guys who sharpens the chain, fills ‘er up with gas and oil, and then I get cutting.
View attachment 681350 View attachment 681351 View attachment 681352 View attachment 681353
Bought one. Tried it. Looks like the Oregon / STIHL / (?) model, but the file was junk (that is actually the clone file in the photos).Chinese have copied the bar dressers & can be purchased off EBay for $6 delivered.
Dremel cut off tool (first photo - wheel is pretty worn there). Cut almost all the way through. Might 'fark up' the temper at the edges, not sure.
Some will, but the racing ones are typically less than 90 degrees, so be sure to check the angle.Hmmm, looks like my ski-edge sharpener will do the same job. I’m gonna find that thing and check it out.
Sounds like a good start.Update! Many thanks for the constructive and helpful comments. This was a bit of an eye-opener and I took a good look at my two bars and numerous chains and I think they are all in the same boat. I was bucking up some big rounds last night with my 18 inch bar with a fresh grinder wheel sharpening, and it worked great for a few cuts and then it was dull again and heating up. I think I will retire my bench grinder and either hand file or use the Timberline sharpener, which I paid plenty for.
I could not find a high-end 16 inch bar in .058 gauge, so I ordered 16 inch and 18 inch Oregon Power Match bars. I’ve gotten pretty good mileage out of them in the past, especially compared to stock (and considering all the abuse!). I also ordered 2 new chains for each bar and I have a call in to my local stealership to replace the clutch/sprocket/bearing thingy. I don’t think there is any point in trying to salvage the bars and chains. They’ve done a lot of cutting but probably best to throw them in the garbage can where they belong. I’m looking forward to getting it all together and really ripping again.
Thanks again!
Actually, I believe that the design was adapted from a ski edge sharpener. Keep an eye out at ski swaps!Hmmm, looks like my ski-edge sharpener will do the same job.
You can bet the cutoff wheel softens the steel in the file (by making it too hot). FWIW, I would just score both sides of the file with the cutoff wheel (all you should need is a very shallow groove on both sides) and then clamp the file in a vise at the score line and break it off with a hammer.
There is a difference between 'sharpening' and 'maintaining a sharp edge'. Reforming cutters, repairing damage, and reestablishing angles falls into the first category. Many comments about the Timberline (and my personal opinion) indicate that it is better at maintaining a sharp edge at specific angles:I think I will retire my bench grinder and either hand file or use the Timberline sharpener, which I paid plenty for.
Cover postage and I will take a whack at the chains, just for a challenge.I don’t think there is any point in trying to salvage the bars and chains . . . probably best to throw them in the garbage can where they belong.
Like with the chains, it is easier to maintain the bar. I check for burrs and wire edges each time I remove / swap a chain and clean them up with a file or the Oregon tool (above).Now find another local member and figure out how to sharpen/maintain the bar.
The file has a lot of mass - it would take a lot of heat to actually soften it. That said, you can take lots of small cuts and allow it to cool in between, or wrap the file in a damp rag to absorb the heat.
If you score and break the file (assuming that you got a clean line and did not damage the cutting edges in the vise or with the hammer)
Just don't make the package look too suspicious!!!!Cover postage and I will take a whack at the chains, just for a challenge.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philberts-chain-salvage-challenge.245369/