Is It The Bar or The Chain?
- Thread starter Husky Joe
- Start date
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Husky Joe
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks, new forest. Yeah, I had the sprocket and clutch drum replaced. I think it was around $25 plus labor? I bought some oil and other stuff and threw down a little more coin.
I seem to hit more dirt with the longer bars out in the woods, but I am working out a system to drag logs in, but them up, and split them with my DHT splitter right in front of the woodshed.
I could not Power Match bars and ended up with the Pro-Lites. The PM bars had one grease hole/fitting, but these newer bars have one on each side.
I was looking at the Oregon bar rail dresser on Bailey’s website. Any issues with something like that? I’m looking for something pretty idiot proof, as you may assume. I do hit the needle bearing when flipping the bar and changing the chain.
Still can't post pics…
I seem to hit more dirt with the longer bars out in the woods, but I am working out a system to drag logs in, but them up, and split them with my DHT splitter right in front of the woodshed.
I could not Power Match bars and ended up with the Pro-Lites. The PM bars had one grease hole/fitting, but these newer bars have one on each side.
I was looking at the Oregon bar rail dresser on Bailey’s website. Any issues with something like that? I’m looking for something pretty idiot proof, as you may assume. I do hit the needle bearing when flipping the bar and changing the chain.
Still can't post pics…
I resisted it initially, due to the price, and because I could use a conventional file and a vise that I already had. But now I really like it.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/bar-dressing.315936/
Philbert
Husky Joe
ArboristSite Operative
Husky Joe
ArboristSite Operative
Just ordered the OREGON 111439 Bar Rail Dresser On Amazon for $30.68 to the door. 
The 'Power-Match' was considered a professional bar (note replaceable sprocket nose), and the Pro-Lite more of a consumer bar. They have since changed a lot of the names they use, but you can find all that info here:
https://online.flippingbook.com/view/276256/200/
Had a similar issue with STIHL:
MS250, with 16" bar uses 62 DL of .325, .063 chain.
MS260, with 16" bar uses 67 DL of .325, .063 chain.
One is considered 'small mount' and one is 'large mount'. Both STIHL. Both 16". Exact same chain, except for the drive link count.
Philbert
newforest
ArboristSite Operative
Maybe my shop was essentially giving away the Pro-Lites then, I forget which is which.
I was in the process of putting a 16" on a Husqy 562, which is weird, I know, but I already had a new, spare 20" bar to put on it and I wanted a back-up 16" to be able to use it with my left-over older chains down to their last few sharpenings, for cutting real dirty wood if needed, etc. I run 16" on all my 50cc class saws.
It also turned out in Husqy land that there are different "mounts" on same size bars - it is about where the holes are drilled in the bar for use on different models of saw.
I was in the process of putting a 16" on a Husqy 562, which is weird, I know, but I already had a new, spare 20" bar to put on it and I wanted a back-up 16" to be able to use it with my left-over older chains down to their last few sharpenings, for cutting real dirty wood if needed, etc. I run 16" on all my 50cc class saws.
It also turned out in Husqy land that there are different "mounts" on same size bars - it is about where the holes are drilled in the bar for use on different models of saw.
Husky Joe
ArboristSite Operative
I checked Philbert’s link and I see that the Pro-Lite bars have been discontinued. I guess that explains why they were giving them away. Given the difference between the 16 inch and 18 inch bars of only 4 drive links, I think I will probably just run the “18 inch” bar and chains into the ground (well, not literally) and then just start out with the new 16 inch bar and chains a few years on down the road. Hopefully.
Good thread. I learned a lot.
Good thread. I learned a lot.
