Is the shop lying to me and next steps?

Wesspur
Rugged made
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I did a quick search for an OEM Stihl top end kit for the MS660 and see Bailey's has them for about $440!

http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...mbly-54mm-for-066-MS-650-MS-660-Chainsaws.axd

A quality aftermarket top end kit from Meteor is like $135.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/183035244621


By gosh you better make sure they put an OEM cylinder and piston in that saw for $500! If they use aftermarket parts then they are as worthless as **** balls on a cows tail.
 
$300 for a p/c kit and call it 2 hours labor, that's $100 at our shop. Still way under their "Christmas Gift" price. I'd have done a before/after p/v test to determine seals, intake, impulse condition but Gotdang it's like they're pricing a whole new top end that's everything from the CC up!
 
No doubt that shop's owner is either a shyster, or downright stupid.
However, as this saga has continued, I'm beginning to think you're now somewhat to blame for the predicament you're in.

After complaining about how this shop misinformed and screwed you over, you go back to the shop to pick up your saws and cut ties with them. All Good.

But then..., even after learning that they screwed you 'again' by doing an additional 100 + bucks work on your MS250 that you didn't authorize them to do,
you then mysteriously agree to let them keep and repair your 900 dollar blown up 066 for the Christmas special of 500 bucks.

I totally understand if you don't have the time or the know-how to repair it yourself - but find another shop or someone you can trust.

Whatever you decide, I hope it works out.
Good luck
 
To the OP,
I know you may not know how to do the work yourself but it is a good practice to get some advice from those that do. I am not always one of those that "do". I am however the one that when I know I will be doing something I have never done before I search out someone that has. I have asked advice and help from People familiar with Stihls or Jonsered when working on each in the recent past. I really hope they will just pass your saw over the counter when you go back. Some people are just plain slippery and have many reasons why you need to just "let them handle it." Good Luck and keep up all posted on the outcome.
 
I guess I’ll be the odd man out and say never run anything but stihl brand engine oil. Why take a chance to save a dollar every 5 cords? I buy the 6 packs that make 1 gallon each. They cost $13. I get near 5 cords on each gallon of fuel. So that’s $13 for enough oil to cut near 30 cords. At least buy the bulk stihl oil and a syringe to measure it. I have retuned as much as they tune all my Poulan leaf blowers and hedge trimmers to run on 50:1. They aren’t running optimum, but have lasted a long time for use around the house and I dont remember them ever running really well (wife can’t crank any of them)
Id rather blow a $100 Poulan than a $1000+ stihl.
I used to think oil is oil until I blew up a Polaris 4 wheeler one day. I had always used Polaris oil, ran out spraying weeds and didn’t have time to go to the city for oil. So grabbed some 2 stroke oil from the farm supply and the thing didn’t run 2 hours of very light duty weed spraying use. May as well have thrown the thing off a cliff after that, Never ran worth a crap again.
 
I went to buy some bar oil today and I was going to spend the extra $5 on a gallon of Stihl. But the $15 a gallon Stihl bottle was flimsy and squishy feeling. So I bought a gallon of the off brand, Quantum Hyperion High-Tac, for $10, that had a much sturdier jug.
Said made in the USA.

I did get a green and tan Stihl ball cap though, $7.99. Made in China.
 
Colt Marlington said:
I went to buy some bar oil today and I was going to spend the extra $5 on a gallon of Stihl. But the $15 a gallon Stihl bottle was flimsy and squishy feeling. So I bought a gallon of the off brand, Quantum Hyperion High-Tac, for $10, that had a much sturdier jug.
Said made in the USA.

I did get a green and tan Stihl ball cap though, $7.99. Made in China.
Click to expand...
Yea I’m not terribly impressed with the appearance of the “wood cutter” bar oil, but I’ve not had any issues with it with Sproket nose bars. The hard noses run hot with it.

My favorite all time was Quaker state, haven’t seen it in over 10 years. Heck some guys run motor oil, but I run stuff too hard for that. I’m scared to run too cheap oil since I smoke bars and wear the numbers off drive links anyway cutting dry dusty mesquite.
 
SamT1 said:
Yea I’m not terribly impressed with the appearance of the “wood cutter” bar oil, but I’ve not had any issues with it with Sproket nose bars. The hard noses run hot with it.

My favorite all time was Quaker state, haven’t seen it in over 10 years. Heck some guys run motor oil, but I run stuff too hard for that. I’m scared to run too cheap oil since I smoke bars and wear the numbers off drive links anyway cutting dry dusty mesquite.
Click to expand...
This quantum stuff I bought looks like STP motor honey. Thick and sticky.

I used to cut a lot of mesquite, but now mainly yard trees, elm, oak, ash, hackberry, mulberry, redbud, etc.
I think it'll be ok.
 

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