Is the Stihl 362(R) the next best saw for me?

[bonzitre]

Ok, I am in need of help/advice/ I do tree work as a part time but have recently started to pick up business wise and decided to upgrade my equipment and skills because the more I have done (increasing steadily over the past 3 years) the more I want to be able to do more because I love this type of work. I currently use a Husqvarna 455 Rancher with a 20" as my main saw and my 372XP stopped working and I sold it, but have recently added a Stihl HT101 and 192TCE to my inventory which I LOVE BOTH OF THEM and have started to rope and spike climb (use to be a lineman so gaffs are nothing new). I am wanting to sell my Husqvarna and upgrade to a Stihl so my equipment is with one brand, one supplier I can go to, etc and have already built a good relationship with my Stihl dealer here. I have been doing my research (including reading about a million threads on here) and have been really leaning towards the Stihl 362 R because hell, $30 extra for a wrap around handle, dogs, and everything else, why not. The $740 price tag is a bit steep and pretty much the top of my scale I can work with (Tree work has to pay for tree work or else the wife will kill me). I was wanting a saw that has the power and ability to cut large pieces when I need or for felling (25" bar), and use probably an 18" bar the rest of the time with some power. I looked at the 290 but don't think it will cut it, but also looked at the 311 and 391. What is your opinion?

and Thanks for any input!

 

[Icedogs28]

I ran a 362 last summer and loved it! plenty of power, that thing would throw wood chips 20 feet! i think this saw is best balanced with a 20in bar, then bring out the 25in when needed. no complaints, i would highly recommend it!

 

[bryanr2]

Ok, I am in need of help/advice/ I do tree work as a part time but have recently started to pick up business wise and decided to upgrade my equipment and skills because the more I have done (increasing steadily over the past 3 years) the more I want to be able to do more because I love this type of work. I currently use a Husqvarna 455 Rancher with a 20" as my main saw and my 392XP stopped working and I sold it, but have recently added a Stihl HT101 and 192TCE to my inventory which I LOVE BOTH OF THEM and have started to rope and spike climb (use to be a lineman so gaffs are nothing new). I am wanting to sell my Husqvarna and upgrade to a Stihl so my equipment is with one brand, one supplier I can go to, etc and have already built a good relationship with my Stihl dealer here. I have been doing my research (including reading about a million threads on here) and have been really leaning towards the Stihl 362 R because hell, $30 extra for a wrap around handle, dogs, and everything else, why not. The $740 price tag is a bit steep and pretty much the top of my scale I can work with (Tree work has to pay for tree work or else the wife will kill me). I was wanting a saw that has the power and ability to cut large pieces when I need or for felling (25" bar), and use probably an 18" bar the rest of the time with some power. I looked at the 290 but don't think it will cut it, but also looked at the 311 and 391. What is your opinion?

and Thanks for any input!

Welcome to AS. I'd skip all the clamshells mentioned in your closing statement. The 362 is a better saw than any of them but you can get more for your money with the Husq 365 or the Dolmar/ Makita 6401 (potential to upgrade to 79cc). Don't be closed minded to "Stihl or nothing". I was raised on Stihl- it took a single cut with a Husq 288 to bring me "out of the darkness". Couple questions....

1) upgrade my equipment and skills- How do you upgrade your skills?

2) and my 392XP stopped working and I sold it- I have never heard of a 392xp.

3) to sell my Husqvarna and upgrade to a Stihl- This sentence is contradictory.

4) (Tree work has to pay for tree work- ?

For 7 bills you can get a much more capable saw in the Husqvarna 365 or Makita 6401.

 

[elanjoe]

Diddo for half that price, my slightly used 2165 has way more grunt than a stock 362 . You can lean on the 65 all day and it just chugs along where the 362 would stall

 

[XSKIER]

The MS 362 R would be a good choice. They balance well, and have plenty of speed with a 20" ROLLOMATIC E guide bar and 33 RS chain. With the R model you will get the HO oiler, good if you feel the need to try a longer bar, but honestly I would just work from both sides with the 20" bar. That is a good price on the saw, and local support is nice when you depend on the saw for income. The others who are recommending to buy a cheaper saw forget the cost of adding the "R" features to them after the initial purchase.

 

[holeycow]

The 362 is a good saw. Powerful, durable, smooth. Slightly (only slightly) unwieldy and slightly (only slightly) heavy. But tough and well worth the money, IMO.

Just a quality piece of equipment with good performance.

Mine has an 18" bar. It might balance slightly better with a 20, but I wanted an 18 and it works/balances well with the 18.

Don't be scared off by the Husky freaks that will jump in here.

 

[Tnshaker]

I have a ported ms 362 on the way.

 

[rattler362]

The 362 is a good saw. Powerful, durable, smooth. Slightly (only slightly) unwieldy and slightly (only slightly) heavy. But tough and well worth the money, IMO.

Just a quality piece of equipment with good performance.

Mine has an 18" bar. It might balance slightly better with a 20, but I wanted an 18 and it works/balances well with the 18.

Don't be scared off by the Husky freaks that will jump in here.

The 362 is a very well built saw.I have nothing bad to say about them but i would also look at the 562xp.Tha 362 with a port job will pit a smile on your face.I forgot to say the 362 is the smoothest saw i have ever run.

 

[holeycow]

The only thing I can say about the comparable Huskies is that some guys have had trouble with them. They love the saw, but it breaks on them and they are severely disappointed. I have never heard anyone having trouble with a ms362. The Husky may have slightly better performance/feel (I don't deny that), but I don't think for one minute that it has the longevity of the Stihl.

I went looking for a Husky 357 or 359 (I think those are the model #s) when I bought my Stihl 362. In these parts, the Husky costs over $250.00 more than the Stihl (ridiculous). So I started to consider the 362 and couldn't be happier with my purchase.

 

[7sleeper]

Surely an excellent choice for a fellow starting a "tree service". Although to be honest I would seriously look in another direction.

You will have to decide what you want beforehand or else you will make many trips to the store which will cost you more than a good plan from the beginning.

1. What saws do you need. Usually there should be 20cc difference between your saws so that the power is spread over a wider area.
a. Tophandle saw 25-35cc
b. Medium size saw 40-50cc
c. Large size saw 60-70cc

2. Do you want new or used?
Many excellent saws are out there. Usually a little older models but the price is usually 1/2 what you pay for a new saw. If you are a little handy everything can be repaired. You can also mix used and new saws. F.e. large saws, if not used in a mill, live usually a nice life. There isn't so much wood out there that they are run 24/7. Medium saws (50cc class) are the main workhorses out there. They get run alot! so it might be wiser to buy something like that new.

3. Do you want a special brand?
You mentioned Stihl. But the major brands are major for a reason. They have proved themselves over time. The typical recomendation is to get what is local because you need spare parts. Well new saws, of proven design, very seldom break/ have problems. And then usually from the beginning or from accidents. So over the life of a tool besides chains, bars and sprokets very little is ever needed! These parts you can get anywhere.

The major brands would be:

Dolmar=Makita, Echo=Shindaiwa, Emak=Efco=Oleo Mac, Hitachi=Tanka, Husqvarna=Jonsered, Solo=Cub Cadet(the older models), Stihl

Mixing brands is no problem at all!

4. Pro or semi pro/farmer models
The difference in these two classes are typically the following

A.to the disadvantage of the semi pro/farmer class
a. Weight
b. Responsivness (this can usually be easily overcome with what is generally known as muffler mod =MM and a carb retune)
c. Split case or clamshell
d. Prestige! This is a rather sensitive field where groups gang together and attack the others product. If you can take the toll then you don't have to worry that you might have a less prestiges product.

B. to the disadvantage of the pro class
a. Price
b. used replacement parts can usually be found easily on the bay etc.

Many comanies buy the semi pro/farmer class and cut a humongous amount of wood before replacement. They have earned their price a long time ago.

What would I recomend?

1. The new Echo CS 355T is getting fantastic reviews by guys, with obviously long term experience, out there in the field!
2. A medium saw Dolmar 5105, Echo 590(60 cc saw, price wise in the 50cc class!), Efco 156/165, Husqvarna 545/346xp/555, Solo 656, Stihl 261
The efco can be had on the bay for 500;-/550;-!!!! Here is a 3 year follow up! http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/98760.htm
The 165 should be right behind a 362 nipping at it's heels after break in!
Get whatever model you like they will all make you happy. Top of the line now are the husqvarna 550xp models.
3. A used 70cc model. Dolmar 6400/7900, Stihl 044/440, Husqvarna 372XP are available everywhere out there. Just check it thoroughly to be sure it is sound. You can surely find excellent used models here on this site and chances are, with long time members, that you will get an excellent deal! (ask nmurph, he usually has some larger stuff lying around )
4. A el cheapo ~40cc saw. Poulan pro/wildthing etc. Actually good quality saw for very little money that can be found used very cheap. Saws can get borrowed, stuck, broke, lost, stolen, etc. This thing will keep you going in such an event.

And if your business prospers you can still buy everything new!

Good luck!

7

 

[Cloud IT]

what size wood are you cutting? if a rancher gets the job done now, why not get a 562xp, save some money, get done faster, and not be as tired at the end of the day?

sorry for lack of caps. holding mt daughter and typing one handed.

 

[bonzitre]

Couple questions....

1) upgrade my equipment and skills- How do you upgrade your skills?

2) and my 392XP stopped working and I sold it- I have never heard of a 392xp.

3) to sell my Husqvarna and upgrade to a Stihl- This sentence is contradictory.

4) (Tree work has to pay for tree work- ?

For 7 bills you can get a much more capable saw in the Husqvarna 365 or Makita 6401.

1) -I mean to learn more skills (rigging sections, learning from all of you, etc.)

2) It was late at night and its been a looooong week. It was a 372XP

4) Like I said, tree work is my part time. It started small (single chainsaw and my truck) and I have been able to add a trailer and other stuff, but I have to use money I make doing tree work to pay for stuff FOR tree work. Other paycheck goes to bills.


We don't have a real good Dolmar/Makita/Jonsered dealer here really. I am going Stihl because of the dealers around here I have dealt with have been very friendly, competitive, and helpful, and because they are my go-to guys, I have saved a few hundred dollars so far on my purchases. The Husqvarna dealers I haven't had very good experiences with and the husqvarna saws I have had I haven't been all that impressed by.

7Sleeper, I have been thinking about the whole 20cc apart and that is why I was looking at the 362 for now along with the pole saw and in-tree saw and then, after I get more business, purchase a good 40ccish chainsaw for limbing on the ground and cutting up etc the smaller/medium stuff but wanted to go with the 362 now for the larger stuff I need and still be able to use it for the medium stuff til I end up getting that 40ccish chainsaw (which I haven't even began to look at), but even considered a cheapo poulan for the limbing for now.

I was going with new because the used market around here that I have found is few and far between or just beat to hell. At least if it is new I can control how it is taken care of and I am pretty careful with my equipment because until I get things really going, I don't want to have to buy parts or a new saw (aside from chains/bars/etc).

I have looked as specs for everything and pretty much fell in love with the 362R when I saw it. It might be a tad heavier than some others out there, but the wrap around handle, upgraded dogs, and I believe large chute were worth the extra couple bucks.

And all said and done, the 455 isn't quite cutting it. Just bogs down too easy and is very finicky in sideways positions etc. From the feedback I have gotten so far I am feeling pretty good with the 362R.

Thanks for all the input everyone and I hope to learn more from you guys. Every time I googled any question about equipment or technique just about it brought me to this website, and maybe one day I will be able to give advise instead of just try to take as much as I can get!

 

[blsnelling]

I don't do stock work saws, but a ported 362 is a very nice saw.

[video=youtube_share;D8aL9UoBbOI]http://youtu.be/D8aL9UoBbOI[/video]

 

[Cloud IT]

I don't do stock work saws, but a ported 362 is a very nice saw.

[video=youtube_share;D8aL9UoBbOI]http://youtu.be/D8aL9UoBbOI[/video]

Is that chain dull? Looks like it's not throwing big chips.

Thing sounds like a beast tho. Nice work on that one.

 

[SawTroll]

Is that chain dull? Looks like it's not throwing big chips.

Thing sounds like a beast tho. Nice work on that one.

Some "evil tongues" say he use high rakers to keep the rpm up in the cut - but I don't really know if it is true....

 

[Cloud IT]

Some "evil tongues" say he use high rakers to keep the rpm up in the cut - but I don't really know if it is true....

I wasn't trying to troll. It sounded like he was trying to force it tho. Usually means a dull chain. He could have been cutting cookies for an hour before he filmed that video.

I don't care about RPM as much as how fast I can actually cut. A sharper chain wins that one every time. Thing sounds like a best that's for sure.

 

[Philip Wheelock]

I started a land management side business this year. Some thoughts:

1. Like you said, pick the dealer, then pick the saw brand. If you like your Stihl saws and have a good relationship with the local Stihl dealer, that's where you should do your business.

2. 50cc's is the minimum size for a limbing/small wood saw IMO. My MS260 Pro gets the job done, but I wouldn't want to use anything smaller.

3. Around here, the 60cc saws I see pros using are bucket saws. For felling and bucking, the 70cc saws can cover more tasks, especially if you'll be pushing a 25" bar. More low-end torque is easier to handle in the cut. I think of 60cc saws as specialty saws and not one of the first saws to buy.

4. The MS362R power head is spec'd at 13.7 lbs. At just 3 oz heavier, an MS440 makes a lot more power. If you're set on the 362, get the standard version at 13 lbs.

5. If I were in your position, I'd go 70cc's with an MS441 C-M or MS461 and run the Husky until you're sick of lifting it around for the smaller tasks and get an MS261. Also would talk to your accountant and create a business so you can depreciate the equipment and write off expenses. Turns out that the saws are the cheap part of the business. Also, I wouldn't learn to climb on my own if I had family responsibilities.

Good luck and best wishes for success.

 

[cuttingintime]

A Stihl MS 362 will put a big smile on your face. And will work with 18 or 20 inch bar and the occasional 25 inch.