Jonsered Chainsaws

[cambl]

670

I agree with Cantdog. Find '92 or later with the newer style crankcase and ign.

The main parts that were unique (not found on a Husky) are the piston/cyl, intake boot, plastic top cover, and air filter cover. Most of the other parts can be swapped around from orange saws. Plastic covers are NLA and hard to find in good shape.

Buy a spare intake boot if you can still get one.

 

[Husky385]

Jonsered carb

Wondering if anyone knows if a carb from Jon 2051 fit husky 350

 

[Andrew Wellman]

920 question about normal operation rpm, sound, feel?

Hello all,

I am looking for some feed back on how a stock 920 should run, sound, feel and cut. I have heard they are medium rpm torque saws, but this is my first so I don't know what to expect. I ported the intake and exhaust to 65 of bore, left the timing and squish alone (.029), brought the transfers down to the case, and swept them 2mm towards the intake. Then opened up the muffler 80%. I know this is not stock but this is what I am getting. Good crank seals, intake boot, clean carb, new filter and fuel line. Ah, also new rings and clean cylinder. It starts and idle great, with good throttle response. It seams to have a low rpm top end and burbles 1/2 or more on the H. It is very sensitive to the H adjust. It cuts like there is no wood under the bar. Is this saw a 10k rpm saw? and I am expecting it to rev like a ported ms044 at 14200. Anyone cut with one that can give an opinion?

 

[3000 FPS]

Hello all,

I am looking for some feed back on how a stock 920 should run, sound, feel and cut. I have heard they are medium rpm torque saws, but this is my first so I don't know what to expect. I ported the intake and exhaust to 65 of bore, left the timing and squish alone (.029), brought the transfers down to the case, and swept them 2mm towards the intake. Then opened up the muffler 80%. I know this is not stock but this is what I am getting. Good crank seals, intake boot, clean carb, new filter and fuel line. Ah, also new rings and clean cylinder. It starts and idle great, with good throttle response. It seams to have a low rpm top end and burbles 1/2 or more on the H. It is very sensitive to the H adjust. It cuts like there is no wood under the bar. Is this saw a 10k rpm saw? and I am expecting it to rev like a ported ms044 at 14200. Anyone cut with one that can give an opinion?

I am not expert by a long ways on these saws but it is an older saw that was made to operate at alot lower RPM than modern saws. Unless you modify the timing on the ports the RPM may change some, but I would not think a whole lot. What is the compression now. Does the saw have good torque in the wood. If it does cut good with good torque then I would say that it is normal with the lower RPM. Put a tach on it and see what it is doing. Just my 2cents.

 

[Andrew Wellman]

Will tach in the Morning.

I am not expert by a long ways on these saws but it is an older saw that was made to operate at alot lower RPM than modern saws. Unless you modify the timing on the ports the RPM may change some, but I would not think a whole lot. What is the compression now. Does the saw have good torque in the wood. If it does cut good with good torque then I would say that it is normal with the lower RPM. Put a tach on it and see what it is doing. Just my 2cents.

It's well after sun down and for safety I will tach in the Day light. I put new rings it and the cylinder was clean. I tried again with my lousy compression gauge and never pulled more than 125 psi. That said the gauge never reads correctly anyways so I don't rely on it. It has a very healthy stiff pulse when I pull it over. If hung from the starter it takes a good long time to reach the end under its own weight. And if you hold your arm out straight and pull, you will leave your arm on the saw and and a bloody stump at your shoulder. All not official methods of testing but as a part time mechanic at a Stihl dealer its passes our quick and dirty diagnosis with out a compression tester.

 

[gapl1953]

Hello all,

I am looking for some feed back on how a stock 920 should run, sound, feel and cut. I have heard they are medium rpm torque saws, but this is my first so I don't know what to expect. I ported the intake and exhaust to 65 of bore, left the timing and squish alone (.029), brought the transfers down to the case, and swept them 2mm towards the intake. Then opened up the muffler 80%. I know this is not stock but this is what I am getting. Good crank seals, intake boot, clean carb, new filter and fuel line. Ah, also new rings and clean cylinder. It starts and idle great, with good throttle response. It seams to have a low rpm top end and burbles 1/2 or more on the H. It is very sensitive to the H adjust. It cuts like there is no wood under the bar. Is this saw a 10k rpm saw? and I am expecting it to rev like a ported ms044 at 14200. Anyone cut with one that can give an opinion?

I ran a 930 SUPER for a while along side a 670 WEST COAST. The 930 is almost lazy compared to the 670, but it cut faster because you could lean on it and it wouldn't bog out. The specification of all the big cc saws were treated by Jonsered as top secret, I never seen away. They sound like a 9,000 or 10,000 rpm saw. I liked mine but sold it. I finally got my 111S instead.

Greg

 

[Andrew Wellman]

Just got an answer on the 920

So, just this am, Scott up at Chainsawr.com, my saw parts/info muse, just emailed back and said that it's stock port timing stuffs down the rpms and favors torque. Since I never altered the port timing, the saw is that low on the rpms. I will tach the saw and get some numbers to share. I still want to here everyones 920 experience's, scientific or not.

andy

 

[Chris J.]

As far as I know, the 920 was made 1982 - 1986, and had a max rpm rating of 12,200 rpm and max power output at about 9,000 rpm.

Andrew, I pulled the above quote from another Jonsered 920 thread. Saw Troll is pretty good about tracking down hard-to-find specs on chainsaws, it helps that he reads several languages.

The search that I used:

http://www.google.com/#hl=en&tbo=d&...2852371cfa3161&bpcl=39580677&biw=1366&bih=498

 

[gapl1953]

I ran a 930 SUPER for a while along side a 670 WEST COAST. The 930 is almost lazy compared to the 670, but it cut faster because you could lean on it and it wouldn't bog out. The specification of all the big cc saws were treated by Jonsered as top secret, I never seen away. They sound like a 9,000 or 10,000 rpm saw. I liked mine but sold it. I finally got my 111S instead.

Greg

I should of added that I am judging those figures while the saw is in wood.

Greg

 

[cat-face timber]

Jonsered 2036 Turbo chainsaw

I might have a line on a Jonsered 2036 Turbo chainsaw.

What Husky parts will cross over?

Thanks for all your help!

 

[almondgt]

I might have a line on a Jonsered 2036 Turbo chainsaw.

What Husky parts will cross over?

Thanks for all your help!

Poulan parts in that Jonny 2036 and Husqvarna 36 & 136 models should be similar minus color...........:msp_wink:

 

[Andrew Wellman]

It was a chunk of filter felt in the carb, I think

Andrew, I pulled the above quote from another Jonsered 920 thread. Saw Troll is pretty good about tracking down hard-to-find specs on chainsaws, it helps that he reads several languages.

The search that I used:

http://www.google.com/#hl=en&tbo=d&...2852371cfa3161&bpcl=39580677&biw=1366&bih=498

Thanks for the data on the RPMs, that gives me a baseline for performance. I double checked everything (again), coil, wires, boot, seals, clamps, fuel line, filter, etc. and finally removed the carb for the 10x time. I ultrasonic cleaned it before, but Dissesembled it and put it in a hot water ultrasonic cleaner with a bit of solvent. What I found was a small stringy piece of felt from the fuel filter in the bottom of the tank.I don't know where it came from in the carb, but ultra sonic tank was dry and clean before filling. I have a new carb kit and will put it back together and hope. It was work ported so I am eager to see its in wood gains.

andy

 

[minosi]

Hey Guys

Anyone here help me find a air filter and air filter cover?

I'd take a muffler as well!

Would like to get the old girl back into action

View attachment 267113

Thanks for any help!

Andy

 

[tbone75]

Hey Guys

Anyone here help me find a air filter and air filter cover?

I'd take a muffler as well!

Would like to get the old girl back into action

View attachment 267113

Thanks for any help!

Andy

Can't help with parts,but I would sure take that saw off your hands! Save you the trouble of finding parts . :monkey:


:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

 

[tedmister2]

Nice saw

Can't help with parts,but I would sure take that saw off your hands! Save you the trouble of finding parts . :monkey:


:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

Very nice indeed. I would love to test or compare with the 920 and 930's I have owned.

Ted

 

[burnt03]

Got this 630 off a guy for free yesterday. SN 1983094366 (I guess that means it's 1983 model?)

He said he got it fired up by pouring gas into the carb but never went further than that. I'm hoping that with a fuel line replacement and carb kit, I'll be able to get it up and running.

Few questions...

1) Any ideas where I can get a new chain brake handle assembly? Or what other models would work on it?
2) Is this the right carb kit or are their better/cheaper ones to look out for?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JONSERED-630-CARB-REBUILD-KIT-COMPLETE-TILLOTSON-NEW-/140290972797
3) Have an open hole on the top of the cover (right behind the handle). What's supposed to be there?
4) Has a 20" bar on it, is that a good size to stick with?
5) What size is the fuel line? 3/16"?

Thanks!

 

[cambl]

630

Look for a used chain brake assembly, or parts from an early Husky 61 will likely work. Yours probably had the old metal tube style brake handle.

Tillotson RK23HS carb kit. Oregon makes one that a local dealer would probably have since it fits so many HS carbs.

Hole in the top cover is not supposed to be there and will cause the saw to overheat. Top covers are hard to find, so patch it up with a pice of sheet metal and pop rivets.

Good luck, give it a bath too!

 

[Mill_wannabe]

Those are great saws! I have a 20" on mine, it pulls it nicely.

 

[tedmister2]

Those are great saws! I have a 20" on mine, it pulls it nicely.

Nothing wrong with a free saw. I like them too.

 

[burnt03]

Thanks for the replies! You'll have to bear with me on this, I've never had a saw apart before.

Started taking it apart and giving it a clean. I have no idea what I'm doing so just doing my best not to wreck anything.

Had spark. Piston/walls look good:

The spark shield (?) was almost completely plugged except for a small area where it was broken off (was wondering what was rattling around). Before and after below:

Drained old gas, pulled fuel line off carb and blew through to make sure it wasn't plugged. Put it back together, took it outside but it wouldn't start. Checked the plug, completely dry.

Took the carb off, would like to take this opportunity to thank the original designer of the saw for making it so easy to get that one allen bolt out. Just great.

Things "looked" fine in the carb but like I say, I don't know what I'm looking for. Diaphragm wasn't ripped, ports were all pretty clean.... gave it a shower with carb cleaner but didn't get a chance to try to fire it. Maybe I'll get lucky tomorrow but I imagine I'll need to order that carb kit.

Edit: Looking at the picture of a carb kit from the supplier, what are those 3 "discs" for? Don't remember seeing them when I had the carb apart....

Let me know what you think/if I'm missing anything important in my steps.

Thanks!