Jonsered Chainsaws

[cjcocn]

Thanks for the replies! You'll have to bear with me on this, I've never had a saw apart before.

Started taking it apart and giving it a clean. I have no idea what I'm doing so just doing my best not to wreck anything.

Had spark. Piston/walls look good:

The spark shield (?) was almost completely plugged except for a small area where it was broken off (was wondering what was rattling around). Before and after below:

Drained old gas, pulled fuel line off carb and blew through to make sure it wasn't plugged. Put it back together, took it outside but it wouldn't start. Checked the plug, completely dry.

Took the carb off, would like to take this opportunity to thank the original designer of the saw for making it so easy to get that one allen bolt out. Just great.

Things "looked" fine in the carb but like I say, I don't know what I'm looking for. Diaphragm wasn't ripped, ports were all pretty clean.... gave it a shower with carb cleaner but didn't get a chance to try to fire it. Maybe I'll get lucky tomorrow but I imagine I'll need to order that carb kit.

Edit: Looking at the picture of a carb kit from the supplier, what are those 3 "discs" for? Don't remember seeing them when I had the carb apart....

Let me know what you think/if I'm missing anything important in my steps.

Thanks!

Those discs are plugs. If you look at your carb the next time you have it off, you can see where one of them (it's been a while) can be used to replace an existing plug that is already in your carb. Some folks do not remove them and have had good success running carbs that have otherwise been cleaned well.

If there is an extra disc, don't worry about it as some kits will fit carbs that differ slightly. They include differently-sized plugs - you just use what you need and the other(s) are unused. Sometimes this happens with gaskets, etc. as well.

If this is your first go-round I may have to send you a PM.

 

[PB]

For that 630 muffler, make sure it is matched up correctly before you reassemble the saw. If the two pieces are not lined up correctly hot exhaust gases can melt your top cover, or burn something else. I had a 630 come to me that way. Those mufflers are an awful setup.



That 111 is too damn clean. Nice score!

 

[cambl]

You will need the carb kit even if the old diaphrams look OK. They are cheap and easy to install.

On the left side carb bolt (allen bolt)-- you probably have the old square stop switch. Pop out the stop switch and use a ball-end allen driver that works at an angle. Very easy. If you are cursing anything about working on a 630 you should try taking apart a Stihl!

 

[PB]

You will need the carb kit even if the old diaphrams look OK. They are cheap and easy to install.

On the left side carb bolt (allen bolt)-- you probably have the old square stop switch. Pop out the stop switch and use a ball-end allen driver that works at an angle. Very easy. If you are cursing anything about working on a 630 you should try taking apart a Stihl!

I take an old hex wrench and cut off the short end to fit in there. Works like a charm and is much easier than fighting at an angle. My first 630 had a nice round groove in the switch hole from trying to get that bolt out.

 

[burnt03]

I take an old hex wrench and cut off the short end to fit in there. Works like a charm and is much easier than fighting at an angle. My first 630 had a nice round groove in the switch hole from trying to get that bolt out.

Ended up doing exactly that since I didn't have any with the round heads. Good thinking on removing the switch though, didn't even cross my mind! Ordered a carb kit last night off of Ebay, I'll update if I get it running!

Noticed a few other things I'm missing on the saw.... dogs, choke switch (just a piece of metal rod right now), brake handle... going to wait to get it running before I get too wild in buying parts though :msp_biggrin:

 

[PB]

Few questions...

1) Any ideas where I can get a new chain brake handle assembly? Or what other models would work on it?
2) Is this the right carb kit or are their better/cheaper ones to look out for?
Jonsered 630 Carb Rebuild Kit Complete Tillotson New | eBay
3) Have an open hole on the top of the cover (right behind the handle). What's supposed to be there?
4) Has a 20" bar on it, is that a good size to stick with?
5) What size is the fuel line? 3/16"?

Thanks!

1)New brake handles are few and far between and if you do find one it will be pricey. Used on eBay is going to be your best bet.
2)Tillotson RK23HS like Cambl mentioned.
3)No, that hole is not supposed to be there. Patch it, or replace the top cover, again like cambl said.
4)It will certainly handle a 20" bar but it becomes nose heavy and will want to fall on the bar. 18" is much better for balance.
5)It would be a 3/16" fuel line if it is not molded. Some runs of 600 series saws have a molded fuel line that is a specific fit.

 

[bama]

1)New brake handles are few and far between and if you do find one it will be pricey. Used on eBay is going to be your best bet.
2)Tillotson RK23HS like Cambl mentioned.
3)No, that hole is not supposed to be there. Patch it, or replace the top cover, again like cambl said.
4)It will certainly handle a 20" bar but it becomes nose heavy and will want to fall on the bar. 18" is much better for balance.
5)It would be a 3/16" fuel line if it is not molded. Some runs of 600 series saws have a molded fuel line that is a specific fit.

There is a changeover kit for those molded fuel lines. I think they are not so good, in my opinion. Not near long enough. You end up drilling out the hole in the tank and using a grommet. Then you can use any length fuel line you want. I am attaching the service bulletin.

 

[PB]

There is a changeover kit for those molded fuel lines. I think they are not so good, in my opinion. Not near long enough. You end up drilling out the hole in the tank and using a grommet. Then you can use any length fuel line you want. I am attaching the service bulletin.

Yeah, those molded lines are short. Not to mention a PIA to install, expensive and hard find in a pinch. I am not sure the grommet idea is much better though. Seems like that would wear out eventually (especially in cold climates) and leak gas.

Thanks for the attachment, I had not heard of that fix before.

 

[burnt03]

Looks as though mine is molded, probably original (sort of a black rubber material).

Went out this morning and tested the compression; got 150psi dry and 168psi with a few drops of oil in the chamber. Seems ok?

 

[Chris J.]

Ended up doing exactly that since I didn't have any with the round heads. Good thinking on removing the switch though, didn't even cross my mind! Ordered a carb kit last night off of Ebay, I'll update if I get it running!

Noticed a few other things I'm missing on the saw.... dogs, choke switch (just a piece of metal rod right now), brake handle... going to wait to get it running before I get too wild in buying parts though :msp_biggrin:

Good thinking. Make sure that the knee-joint in your chainbrake holds properly (doesn't slip/jump into the on/engaged position) while under load before dropping $$ on the brake handle. You can get a new complete aftermarket clutch cover, but it isn't cheap and would require modification and painting if aesthetics matter to you.

If the knee-joint holds, I know someone who might be able to help with the brake handle.

 

[burnt03]

Good thinking. Make sure that the knee-joint in your chainbrake holds properly (doesn't slip/jump into the on/engaged position) while under load before dropping $$ on the brake handle. You can get a new complete aftermarket clutch cover, but it isn't cheap and would require modification and painting if aesthetics matter to you.

If the knee-joint holds, I know someone who might be able to help with the brake handle.

Seems to hold pretty tight once I engage it but not sure exactly what parts I'm missing for the brake (the IPL I have is for newer style with the plastic handle, think mine was the metal loop).

On the bright side, I got the saw to fire after putting it back together! I'll still put the carb kit in once it gets here but it's nice to see that it actually runs!

 

[gapl1953]

Help, Mystery Jonsered!!

I recently picked up a vintage Jonsered that I need help to identify. I was told by the previous owner that it is a Jonsered 80. It is red with a silver top and looks to be the same size and shape as my "80" but it has a decompression release. There is a hole in the cover for the release to the left and forward of the spark plug. It appears that is came from the factory that way. So what is it???


Greg

 

[cjcocn]

I recently picked up a vintage Jonsered that I need help to identify. I was told by the previous owner that it is a Jonsered 80. It is red with a silver top and looks to be the same size and shape as my "80" but it has a decompression release. There is a hole in the cover for the release to the left and forward of the spark plug. It appears that is came from the factory that way. So what is it???


Greg

Post some pictures. These guys can ID it quick.

Maybe someone modified an 80 hat and sat it on top of a 90 (the 90s have the decomp).

 

[PB]

It could very well be an 80. There were quite a few with an aftermarket decomp installed due to high compression. That said, it may have also been upgraded to a 90. The details will be in the cylinder and the markings at the base and the decomp.

 

[gapl1953]

Post some pictures. These guys can ID it quick.

Maybe someone modified an 80 hat and sat it on top of a 90 (the 90s have the decomp).

I'll get some pictures and further info tomorrow. I'll get my "80", "90" and "801" out and compare them to the new saw and see how they match up.

Thanks,
Greg

 

[Cantdog]

Seems to hold pretty tight once I engage it but not sure exactly what parts I'm missing for the brake (the IPL I have is for newer style with the plastic handle, think mine was the metal loop).

On the bright side, I got the saw to fire after putting it back together! I'll still put the carb kit in once it gets here but it's nice to see that it actually runs!

Sounds like you are getting there......I only want to add....earlier you asked about the three disks.....there are really only 2 a large and a small welch plug as earlier mentioned these may or may not be used.....the third is a round, fine screen...this is your final fuel filter..it is located under the top cover of the carb...down in a hole right where the fuel inlet is.....make certain that this screen is either clean (should be able to see light through the hole when you have the fuel metering valve and diaphram out) or you simply replace with the new one. Good luck.....good saws.....

 

[torinocobra]

Is there anything special I need to know about pulling the flywheel on a 111s? Special puller necessary?

 

[SawTroll]

I recently picked up a vintage Jonsered that I need help to identify. I was told by the previous owner that it is a Jonsered 80. It is red with a silver top and looks to be the same size and shape as my "80" but it has a decompression release. There is a hole in the cover for the release to the left and forward of the spark plug. It appears that is came from the factory that way. So what is it???


Greg

Another option is a 90 where the top cover has been painted "silver". We really need some pictures of this saw....

How does the rear end of the top cover look?

 

[bama]

Yeah, those molded lines are short. Not to mention a PIA to install, expensive and hard find in a pinch. I am not sure the grommet idea is much better though. Seems like that would wear out eventually (especially in cold climates) and leak gas.

Thanks for the attachment, I had not heard of that fix before.

I have been modifying my saws since about 2006 and haven't had a lick of trouble. When you pull the line through the grommet, it forces the grommet back to seal against the tank. No leaks and none have worn out since I installed them. You can lay them on the side or upside down without any trouble. I like that I can lengthen the line so the filter lays toward the front of the fuel tank and that I can give it enough so I can get the filter out through the fuel fill opening.

 

[Chris J.]

The 80? 801? 90? discussion got me to thinking (uh oh). Most of you have probably seen & copied the linked information, but I'm posting the link for those who might not have seen it.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/163492.htm