Jonsered Chainsaws

[gapl1953]

No it is definitely a 801 with part of the sticker missing. I have both 80's and a nice 801 and that is an 801. The 801 is close in appearance to the 90.



Greg

 

[laddo90]

long bar?

I bought my 801 hopeing I could run a 32 inch bar(to out do my friends 28 inch bar on his stihl 044) for carving pine's and some Catalpa. It would'nt touch to much hard wood. Will it run it?

Thanks

 

[gapl1953]

I bought my 801 hopeing I could run a 32 inch bar(to out do my friends 28 inch bar on his stihl 044) for carving pine's and some Catalpa. It would'nt touch to much hard wood. Will it run it?

Thanks

Jonsered supplied them with a maximum bar of 23". The 801 falls between a 630 Super and a 670 Super as far as horsepower goes. The 801 operates at a much higher rpm, 10,700 vs 8,700 which will help with soft wood. I would find a good 670 Super and beat him with a smaller saw that will get his goat.

 

[PB]

Your parts saw is much earlier than the runner. The presence of the decomp hole did not appear until the 90 was developed. The 801 is a direct descendent of the 80 with a better air filter setup. Model 90's did show up until later and was developed for the 80/801 chassis.

It will run a 32" bar, but you will have to mod a bar to fit. The largest you can currently buy to bolt right on is 28".

 

[PB]

Jonsered supplied them with a maximum bar of 23". The 801 falls between a 630 Super and a 670 Super as far as horsepower goes. The 801 operates at a much higher rpm, 10,700 vs 8,700 which will help with soft wood. I would find a good 670 Super and beat him with a smaller saw that will get his goat.

Yes. An 801 will run a 32" bar but you will have to be patient for results.

 

[gapl1953]

Your parts saw is much earlier than the runner. The presence of the decomp hole did not appear until the 90 was developed. The 801 is a direct descendent of the 80 with a better air filter setup. Model 90's did show up until later and was developed for the 80/801 chassis.

It will run a 32" bar, but you will have to mod a bar to fit. The largest you can currently buy to bolt right on is 28".

I just got a 32" roller tip bar for my 930 Super which is the same mount as a 801, (a number 18 mount). I thought I got it from Bailey's but it could have been eBay.


Greg

 

[Cantdog]

Thanks every one for the compliments, and cantdog the upgrade you mentioned could be why I haven't seen many 80's like mine.:msp_unsure: It could very well be a 801 as part of the decal is missing

Or it could be a 80 because the top cover looks like it is from a 90 with a rubber plug in the hole for the decomp button, but I know this has not been done in the past 20 years.

As for (what I thought was a 80) parts saw this could very well be a 801 as the top cover doesn't have the decomp hole

Is there a way to tell the difference by the serial #? Parts saw #486692 Runner #1618375
Thanks again every body.
Bill.

The 801 and 80 are identical except for the top cover, intake/air filter and ID sticker.....same cases, P&C, carb, muffler recoil, handles, clutch and cover etc. The 801 can be thought of in either of two ways.......a detuned 90....... or an advanced 80 with much better air filtration. All good!!!

 

[laddo90]

DarnView attachment 273349

Well I beat him(many times) with the 70e 20 inch bar vs 20 inch bar. Well now I guess I can beat him in cc's How would a 70e and 801 compare?

 

[gapl1953]

DarnView attachment 273349

Well I beat him(many times) with the 70e 20 inch bar vs 20 inch bar. Well now I guess I can beat him in cc's How would a 70e and 801 compare?

The 70E is one of the saws that Jonsered has kept the horsepower and RPM figures a secret. They recommend about the same size bars as the 801.
I got a super running 111S with a 40" roller tip that I'll sell you and then you can really get him.

 

[Cbird14]

i have a jonsered 630 super that i have am having problems getting tuned properly. was wondering if someone could post a pic of one that has the air filter removed. the idle screw doesnt change a thing i have to turn in the L speed screw to get it to idle. i actually thought i had it this morning. got it to idle, warmed up set the H speed screw to where it was burbling, shut it off walked over to the wood pile and started it up. just bogged when given throttle. then died couldnt get to restart. thanks for any and all help!

 

[PB]

i have a jonsered 630 super that i have am having problems getting tuned properly. was wondering if someone could post a pic of one that has the air filter removed. the idle screw doesnt change a thing i have to turn in the L speed screw to get it to idle. i actually thought i had it this morning. got it to idle, warmed up set the H speed screw to where it was burbling, shut it off walked over to the wood pile and started it up. just bogged when given throttle. then died couldnt get to restart. thanks for any and all help!

Turn both the L and H needle in completely then back them out one full turn. This is where you should start for tuning. Turn the L screw out until the engine almost dies, then turn it in until it almost dies. Make a note of where the max RPMs are. You want the L screw to be 1/8 to 1/4 turn counter clockwise from the max RPM setting. Now you can set your idle and then move onto the H setting.

 

[PB]

I just got a 32" roller tip bar for my 930 Super which is the same mount as a 801, (a number 18 mount). I thought I got it from Bailey's but it could have been eBay.


Greg

Later 930's had the common D009 mount for large Husky's. The earlier ones had the larger 10mm stud so your saw could have come either way.

 

[Cbird14]

Turn both the L and H needle in completely then back them out one full turn. This is where you should start for tuning. Turn the L screw out until the engine almost dies, then turn it in until it almost dies. Make a note of where the max RPMs are. You want the L screw to be 1/8 to 1/4 turn counter clockwise from the max RPM setting. Now you can set your idle and then move onto the H setting.

thanks for the help. ill go give it another try.

 

[laddo90]

I'm in need of

I'm looking to buy a handle bar with the mount if possible since my 801 ha a craked mount. And for some reason I can't fit my hand around the top of the handle.

 

[PB]

I'm looking to buy a handle bar with the mount if possible since my 801 ha a craked mount. And for some reason I can't fit my hand around the top of the handle.

Common problem. They must have had smaller hands in the 70's. If you still have the hand guard, removing that makes a little more room.

 

[burnt03]

Got a brake handle for my 630 (thanks bplust) but I can't see how the thing is supposed to bolt on. Looking at the pics on chainsawr, it looks like I have a old-style clutch cover and a new style handle.

Can I make this work or am I going to have to find either a new style clutch cover or an old style handle?

Thanks

 

[PB]

......have to find either a new style clutch cover or an old style handle?

You answered your own question.

 

[burnt03]

You answered your own question.

Crappy deal

But thanks for the reply. So a new style clutch cover will fit on the old saw with no problem? Or, this would be the handle I need? Any other parts I'm missing to make that handle work?

 

[PB]

New style cover will fit right on with no problem. That appears to be the correct handle but hard to tell from the pic.

 

[burnt03]

Read on another thread that a cover from a Husq 61/66/266/268/272 should also work, so something like this:

Husqvarna Side Cover w/Chain Brake Assy,Fits 61,268XP,272XP,Complete Assembly | eBay

Looks pretty much the same....