Jonsered Chainsaws

[Jacob J.]

No problem z50. The 670 have always been one of my favorites. When I was young, they were everywhere around here.

Does the z50 in your username refer to the Honda Mini bike? I grew up on a CT70 and CT70H.

The 670 doesn't get much respect but they are one of the best saws Jonsereds ever had roll out of the factory. I've seen 670s keep running to the point where the piston was rocking back and forth in the bore so badly that it wore a dent in the top of the cylinder. One came in off a landing and was still running but "making a funny sound" according to the chaser. It had a broken crank.

 

[burnt03]

Got a brake handle for my 630 (thanks bplust) but I can't see how the thing is supposed to bolt on. Looking at the pics on chainsawr, it looks like I have a old-style clutch cover and a new style handle.

Can I make this work or am I going to have to find either a new style clutch cover or an old style handle?

Thanks

Noticed this handle came up on chainsawr today, will it fit on my saw?

 

[gapl1953]

Noticed this handle came up on chainsawr today, will it fit on my saw?

Yes, that is the correct one for your brake system. Keep your brake band in good shape because those are hard to fine. I have a few complete brakes and side covers like yours minus the brake bands because I haven't been able to find any.

Greg

 

[cambl]

Brake handle

You won't be able to use either of those handles. You will need either the older style plastic handle or a complete new style chain brake.

The metal handles were used back on the early '80s saws and your brake/cover is late '80s.

 

[burnt03]

Urgh, so which one is it? The metal or the old style plastic

Anyone else want to weigh in? I know for sure the new style handle doesn't fit

Looking at the tag on the saw, it says "1983"... guess that's the manu. date?

Have a 670 brake/cover assembly coming one of these days but thought it'd be nice to have a spare if that metal handle works

 

[cambl]

Urgh, so which one is it? The metal or the old style plastic

Anyone else want to weigh in? I know for sure the new style handle doesn't fit

Looking at the tag on the saw, it says "1983"... guess that's the manu. date?

Have a 670 brake/cover assembly coming one of these days but thought it'd be nice to have a spare if that metal handle works

That black plastic one in the picture will work. It's held on to the metal arm with one screw.

 

[PB]

Urgh, so which one is it? The metal or the old style plastic

Anyone else want to weigh in? I know for sure the new style handle doesn't fit

Looking at the tag on the saw, it says "1983"... guess that's the manu. date?

Have a 670 brake/cover assembly coming one of these days but thought it'd be nice to have a spare if that metal handle works

1983 was the first year the 630's were manufactured and I have not seen any that have come with the all metal brake handle. I can't say anything about which handle will work, but the old style plastic handle is what is on my 1983 630V and the new style plastic handle won't work.

 

[burnt03]

Scott at Chainsawr had one in stock but didn't have it on the website yet. Ordered it up and that should be the last part to get this saw ready to go! Sure do appreciate all the parts chainsawr has but it's hard on the bank account to have it all so easy to order sitting here on my azz :msp_biggrin:

Thanks again for the help!

 

[gapl1953]

That black plastic one in the picture will work. It's held on to the metal arm with one screw.

cambl is right, I didn't look at your photo close enough, sorry bout that.


Greg

 

[eiklj]

Anyone got parts for a 2071 Turbo? I need a rear handle and stuff.

 

[nhlogga]

Yes, that is the correct one for your brake system. Keep your brake band in good shape because those are hard to fine. I have a few complete brakes and side covers like yours minus the brake bands because I haven't been able to find any.

Greg

The earliest 630s had the metal loop 504 98 34 63 says my IPL dated 1982.06.15

 

[PB]

The earliest 630s had the metal loop 504 98 34 63 says my IPL dated 1982.06.15

Do you have a copy of that IPL that you could send to me? I would like to add it to my library.

 

[nhlogga]

Do you have a copy of that IPL that you could send to me? I would like to add it to my library.

Only have one. I can try to photo copy it and send it.

 

[PB]

Only have one. I can try to photo copy it and send it.

That's okay, I thought you might have had a .pdf copy.

 

[nhlogga]

That's okay, I thought you might have had a .pdf copy.

Sorry. The copy I have came with the 630 I bought last year.

 

[cambl]

2083 ii

I picked up this nice 2083 II (2077) last week and did the usual clean up. Seems like a well built saw and easy to work on. Ordered parts through a local Poulan Pro source and they tell me everything is avialable except for the spark arrestor.

Going to put this on a Granberg mill and see how it does. If it doesn't have the nuts I also have a non-EPA 2083 that should do the job.

Shown here wearing a NOS 3-rivet 32" Oregon bar and a loop of good old 72AJ.

 

[gapl1953]

The earliest 630s had the metal loop 504 98 34 63 says my IPL dated 1982.06.15

Ok, so I have a few with metal loop brake handle that need brake bands.

I'm so confused!!!!:msp_confused::msp_confused::msp_confused::msp_confused::msp_confused:

The trouble is that you can only obtain the last rendition of the 630's part list.

Greg

 

[nhlogga]

Ok, so I have a few with metal loop brake handle that need brake bands.

I'm so confused!!!!:msp_confused::msp_confused::msp_confused::msp_confused::msp_confused:

The trouble is that you can only obtain the last rendition of the 630's part list.

Greg

Post up some pics of the ones you have. Someone can tell ya if they will work. Bands can be found on chainsawr.com sometimes.

 

[gapl1953]

Post up some pics of the ones you have. Someone can tell ya if they will work. Bands can be found on chainsawr.com sometimes.

I appreciate the suggestion, but first I need to find the brake bands that fit these early type. They are hard to locate.


Greg

 

[TJGEO]

Jonsered 2094 P&C questions

Howdy Folks, I just joined this forum and this is my first time posting. So heres my story..... I bought a Jonsered 2094 turbo (earlier model without the decomp valve) a couple of days ago for $60 under the premis that it "needed Work". The guy who was selling it said he thought there was something mechanically wrong with the saw becasue he could hardly crank it over with the spark plug installed, yet when he pulled the plug it would crank over just fine. After reading a couple of posts on this forum I determined that this was just the nature of this particular model of saw. When I bought it there was no spark plug in it and it felt smooth when I pulled the starter. After I picked up the saw a stopped at harbor freight and grabbed a compression gauge. and later that evening after cleaning up the saw I tested the cylinder (oiled) and it only came up to around 65psi and it was fairly easy to pull. At first I suspected the cheap compression gauge but after tearing the saw down further I'm not so sure the gauge is at fault. Upon pulling the cylinder off I noticed what I feel is a crude attempt at a pop-up piston and porting job, also there is supposed to be a 2mm heat spacer between the crank case and cylinder but I am pretty sure it was not present. There was a gasket but I did not go prying on it and I think would have noticed the 2mm spacer if it was there. There was your typical ammount of carbon build up one would expect to find and maybe a little more than normal on the top of the piston before I cleaned most of it off. So by dropping the Cylinder 2mm (the thickness of the spacer) which is approximatley 0.078-0.079 inches and raising the intake and exhasut ports, not to mention the Ill executed piston modification do you guys think this would throw the timing and squish way out enough to warrent that low compression? I will be getting a spark plug for it tomorrow after work just to see how hard it is to pull when all put together.View attachment 278738View attachment 278739View attachment 278740View attachment 278741View attachment 278742

I guess The obvious answer would to just try to get the dang thing started and see how it runs if at all. But im on the road working in the middle of wyoming and i have minimal have any tools with me. I am going to try to go to town tomorrow and grab that spark plug now that I know what I need and see if I cant find a can of that pre-mix saw gas somewhere. I just wanted to know what anybodys initall thoughts were because I have no experience in porting and modifying piston but from the looks of this is pretty shotty.