Jonsered Chainsaws

Rugged made
Wesspur
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Welcome to AS. I can't comment on the port job, don't know a good one from the bad, but with your decomp gauge did you pull it until the needle stopped moving? If it is difficult to pull over with the plug in it, I am willing to bet it has more than 65lbs of compression.
 
PB said:
Welcome to AS. I can't comment on the port job, don't know a good one from the bad, but with your decomp gauge did you pull it until the needle stopped moving? If it is difficult to pull over with the plug in it, I am willing to bet it has more than 65lbs of compression.
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Yeah I pulled about 5-6 good full length pulls until the needle did not move any further. I did that both with the handel down in the idle position and also with it in the full throttle position. I guess the real test is to get a plug for it tomorrow and see how it reacts.
 
Well, good luck. I don't normally pass this advice out, but run it (if it will) until it dies. That top end probably will not be salvageable if the port job is garbage. It certainly looks like a hack port job but it may run great.

Do you have another saw around that you know runs well? You could try your tester on that saw and see if the reading comes up the same.
 
I went through two of those harbor freight compression gauges and both read very low, so I would not trust them.

As far the saw goes I would run it. The pop up piston almost looks they took the outside part of the piston down creating a pop up. looks like they tried to make it match with the squish band and that way when they dropped the jug the 2mm that your referring to they got their pop up. Only problem is heat on top of the piston could cause early failure due to it being thinned out.

The only way of knowing about the timing on this thing would be to put a degree wheel on it and check it. Everything else is just guess work.
 
I can't figure out the hard to crank with the plug in thing. If your saying it only has 65lbs of comp, it's surely not because of too much.
The porting and piston are very crude. If the base is not milled to work with the pop up, you will loose comp. If they raised the roof of the ex. port, you'll loose comp.
If it was mine, I'd look for a good piston/cylinder to put on it. Then you can also see what they messed up by comparing them.
 
3000 FPS said:
I went through two of those harbor freight compression gauges and both read very low, so I would not trust them.

As far the saw goes I would run it. The pop up piston almost looks they took the outside part of the piston down creating a pop up. looks like they tried to make it match with the squish band and that way when they dropped the jug the 2mm that your referring to they got their pop up. Only problem is heat on top of the piston could cause early failure due to it being thinned out.

The only way of knowing about the timing on this thing would be to put a degree wheel on it and check it. Everything else is just guess work.
Click to expand...

PB said:
Well, good luck. I don't normally pass this advice out, but run it (if it will) until it dies. That top end probably will not be salvageable if the port job is garbage. It certainly looks like a hack port job but it may run great.

Do you have another saw around that you know runs well? You could try your tester on that saw and see if the reading comes up the same.
Click to expand...

My only other saw is a MS362 I bought last year but that is back home in Montana and I'm currently working in the field down in wyoming where i found this saw on craigslist.

Thanks for the heads up about the Harbor Freight compression gauges reading low. I'll try to get this thing running after I get off my shift and keep you guys posted on what I find.

Thanks again for the advise.
 
husqvarnaguy was kind enough to send me a brake assembly from a 670. He warned me that it wasn't working (doesn't move, as far as I can tell it's stuck in the locked position) so now trying to get it going.

Took it apart and found one tine on the spring broken. First off, would this be enough to lock it up and stop it from working?

Secondly, where should the shaft (with the circlip) be contacting? Couldn't really see any sort of wear spots.

Thanks

img4133n.jpg
 
cbfarmall said:
A nice 621 with a chainbrake. This brake doesn't seem to be an overcenter type. Looks like a momentary contact sort of mechanism and maybe not very effective.

Chris B.
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I used to have a 621 almost exactly like your saw (aside from an all-red clutch cover with the bottom/front edge busted off and a missing handlebar bracket decal). Traded it to another AS memeber. The brake has an ignition kill switch, and a small sliding shoe that rubs on the clutch drum when the lever is pushed forward. I share your assessment that it's probably not very effective.

photobucket-22979-1346724927298.jpg
 
Silver back gorillas

Howdy-

I picked up an old Jonsereds 80 a few months ago and absolutely love it. Now I'm thinking I need a 621 to match, and possibly some others. What other models of siver top J-reds were put out in that era?

I originally bought it to use for milling with an Alaskan style setup, but decided to use the Homelite sxl 925 that I got in the same deal since parts are still somewhat available for the homie, and not so much on the Jonsereds. Does anyone know what other saws have interchangabe parts with the 80? Thanks in advance for any input- you folks are a wealth of knowledge!
 
Other silvertops of that vintage include the 50 and the 111/111S.
A lot of 90 and 801 parts will work on the 80. The main difference is the top cover, air filter, and air filter cover.
 
taplinhill said:
Other silvertops of that vintage include the 50 and the 111/111S.
A lot of 90 and 801 parts will work on the 80. The main difference is the top cover, air filter, and air filter cover.
Click to expand...

Was there a 535 classic that was a silver top as well?

and the 60, 62, 601, 75, 751
 
Last edited:
cjcocn said:
Was there a 535 classic that was a silver top as well?

and the 60, 62, 601, 75, 751
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We do not speak of the 5XX series...no mater what color the top cover was....LOL!! Hi Chris!!!!

taplinhill said:
Yes, but that came along much later, and nothing like the 621 and 80.
Click to expand...


Yep LATE being the operative......
 
Cantdog said:
We do not speak of the 5XX series...no mater what color the top cover was....LOL!! Hi Chris!!!!




Yep LATE being the operative......
Click to expand...

YOU PURIST SNOBS!:laugh:

(Keep in mind this comes from a firewood hack who likes to run his 630 with a 28" bar and skip chain...bending down to buck small logs is overrated! lol)
 
tbone75 said:
You should hear how he really feels about them ! :hmm3grin2orange:
Click to expand...

I was just being gentle John...no need to ruffle anyones feathers..........if they own one of those enemic, lightweight, crossbred, last thought of a backward child/dying company, things their feathers are rumpled already beyond straightening!! LOL!!!
 
Siver back gorillas

Hmmm... So after looking on acres and eBay, it appears there are even less 50's and 111's out there than the 621 and 80 models. I think I'll set my sights on a 621 for the time being, and keep my eyes peeled for a 111 if a deal pops up. There's just something sexy about these red and silver beasts.

So if I have this right, an 801 piston will work on an 80 with the same jug (both 52mm) but a 90 piston would work only if you had the 90 jug to go along with it (54mm). I'm guessing you can't bore these jugs out...? Everything else is pretty much compatible though?
 

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