Jonsered Chainsaws

[Cantdog]

Read on another thread that a cover from a Husq 61/66/266/268/272 should also work, so something like this:

Husqvarna Side Cover w/Chain Brake Assy,Fits 61,268XP,272XP,Complete Assembly | eBay

Looks pretty much the same....

It will work but you have to cut a couple inches off the rear end of the cover to fit the Jonsered. You have to cut right up along the back edge of the partition that directs sawdust down...then you have to paint it red....LOL!!

 

[Chris J.]

Burnt03, as PB posted the metal CB arm appears to be the correct one.

I ran into a problem with some of the early CBs with the metal arms. I don't know how common the problem is, but I'll share my experience, at the risk of sounding like a broken record/CD. The knee-joint, the part that holds the CB arm in the Off/Disengaged position, can become worn/fatigued, and will allow the CB to slip into the Engaged position. On some covers the knee-joint problem is obvious, on others they'll seem to hold just fine........until you put the saw in wood.

At least one member here was going to experiment with repairing the knee-joints, but I haven't heard how that turned out.

 

[cbfarmall]

Later 930's had the common D009 mount for large Husky's.

From the factory? That's the first I've heard that. I'd always assumed my 930 was retrofitted (and that may still be the case.) The bar cover is sloppy on the studs.

Chris B.

 

[cambl]

630 chain brake

Here is one I just finished for a 670. Purchased the 61/268 cover from sponsor Northwood, sliced off the back with a die grinder, and painted it red.

 

[burnt03]

Here is one I just finished for a 670. Purchased the 61/268 cover from sponsor Northwood, sliced off the back with a die grinder, and painted it red.

Nice, looks good!

 

[3000 FPS]

Here is one I just finished for a 670. Purchased the 61/268 cover from sponsor Northwood, sliced off the back with a die grinder, and painted it red.

cambl does that leave the back of the cover open. I am unfamiliar with what it looked like before you cut it.

 

[cambl]

No the back of the cover is closed and it has the rubber flapper to deflect the chips. After you cut off the back piece it looks almost identical to the 630/670 cover.

 

[3000 FPS]

No the back of the cover is closed and it has the rubber flapper to deflect the chips. After you cut off the back piece it looks almost identical to the 630/670 cover.

Ok thanks. It sure looked good.

 

[PB]

From the factory? That's the first I've heard that. I'd always assumed my 930 was retrofitted (and that may still be the case.) The bar cover is sloppy on the studs.

Chris B.

Yes, from the factory. From the best I can tell, it happened around 1986-87 but not positive on that. According to the IPL's the bar stud switch occurred between February and August of 1986 but I am not sure how accurate those dates are or if they were updated after the fact. I always wondered why the 830/930 saws were listed in the Oregon catalog with both the D024 and D009 mount. It could have been both.

 

[Chris J.]

Here is one I just finished for a 670. Purchased the 61/268 cover from sponsor Northwood, sliced off the back with a die grinder, and painted it red.

Nice job ! Rep forthcoming.


Did you start with a cover that looks like this one offered by Bailey's? How was Northwoods pricing compared to Bailey's?

Bailey's - Sprocket Cover with Brake for Husqvarna 61, 66 266 268 272

 

[Chris J.]

D*amn*d edit function :bang:.

Sprocket Covers for Husqvarna

 

[bowtechmadman]

Zero knowledge of J-reds but thought this might be a good place to check for a rear handle for a Jred 2095 for a buddie's saw. His is split in half w/ trigger assembly, throttle linkage gone.

 

[Chris J.]

Zero knowledge of J-reds but thought this might be a good place to check for a rear handle for a Jred 2095 for a buddie's saw. His is split in half w/ trigger assembly, throttle linkage gone.

Spike60 (still a site sponsor?) helped Mastermind with parts on a Jonsered 2095 rebuild; site sponsor Chainsawr is also a good source for hard-to-find parts. I'm thinking that the 2094 rear handle should be the same.

IPLs

Jonsered Chainsaw Parts List Directory

 

[PB]

I'm thinking that the 2094 rear handle should be the same.

IPLs

Jonsered Chainsaw Parts List Directory

It's not the same handle. You need to find a 2095 specific rear handle. Most parts are still available new from the dealers if you have one in the area and you don't mind paying for it.

 

[bowtechmadman]

Thanks for the help guys. Was hoping I might find a used one. Definately a different set up than my 395 was handle is independant of the tank.

 

[laddo90]

View attachment 276251View attachment 276252View attachment 276253

 

[tedmister2]

View attachment 276251View attachment 276252View attachment 276253

looks like a nice 90.

 

[laddo90]

Is there any way to tune it up to run a higher RPM or would that be stupid?

 

[Eccentric]

Is there any way to tune it up to run a higher RPM or would that be stupid?

You mean by leaning it out? You'd just loose power and burn it up. Tune the H side per the instructions in my sig line. These older Jonsereds saws are very strong runners. If you really desire a high RPM saw then sell that Jonsereds to one of the guys here and buy a newer Jonsered or Husqvarna (or Dolmar or stihl)...

 

[Chris J.]

Is there any way to tune it up to run a higher RPM or would that be stupid?

The 90 is an older saw designed for torque, not designed for speed. While I'd be curious to know if anyone has gone inside a 90 to see what if any mods were possible, I'd tune it properly (not on the "razor's edge") and run it for what it is, a cool vintage saw.

You mean by leaning it out? You'd just loose power and burn it up. Tune the H side per the instructions in my sig line. These older Jonsereds saws are very strong runners. If you really desire a high RPM saw then sell that Jonsereds to one of the guys here and buy a newer Jonsered or Husqvarna (or Dolmar or stihl)...

:agree2: