Jonsered Chainsaws

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When you say idle set all the way back is it turned full right? Or where is it set?
Does the idle screw change anything when turned while the saw is running/screaming? Is this with a bar and chain on or the chain brake on?

Yep, turned full right. No, idle screw doesn't seem to do much and yes, it's with the bar and chain on, chain brake off.
 
I can't remember, but do you need to hook the diaphragm to the needle lever on that carb? If you didn't hook it, the lever will be depressed and act like full throttle.
 
I can't remember, but do you need to hook the diaphragm to the needle lever on that carb? If you didn't hook it, the lever will be depressed and act like full throttle.

I thought I had it hooked on but it's possible I didn't get it on right before tightening things up... I'll tear it down and double check
 
Yep, turned full right. No, idle screw doesn't seem to do much and yes, it's with the bar and chain on, chain brake off.

I may be misunderstanding something but my saw will not idle with the idle screw turned clockwise or to the right. I do not recall how many turns (counter clockwise )out from fullly seated mine is. Forgive if you have tried this and no improvement.
 
Also, make sure you have the gaskets in the correct order. There should be a spacer gasket between the carb body and the diaphragm.
 
my 2150 , she is also for sale.

119_4763_zps966b9c4d.jpg
 
Sounds like you need to check for an air leak.

Been pretty busy with work lately, finally got a chance to take it apart today. Nardoo was dead-on, the gasket between the carb and the cylinder slipped down off one bolt when I was putting it back together so yeah... put it back together and it fired up nice and strong after a few pulls.

Now just have to go through the posts on how to tune the carb properly and I'll be golden!

Thanks again for the help guys
 
Been pretty busy with work lately, finally got a chance to take it apart today. Nardoo was dead-on, the gasket between the carb and the cylinder slipped down off one bolt when I was putting it back together so yeah... put it back together and it fired up nice and strong after a few pulls.

Now just have to go through the posts on how to tune the carb properly and I'll be golden!

Thanks again for the help guys

Sounds familiar. I just fired up a newly-acquired 621 and found it was set rich as heck. When I tried to retune, sucker wouldn't idle down at all. Sure enough, the manifold-cylinder gasket was gone. There were some remnants of the old gasket still stuck to the surfaces, but it was leaking all around. Easy fix and back in business.

Chris B.
 
Here's a long-awaited saw. A 90 has always eluded me, and I finally ran across this one that needed a piston. I found a really nice spare piston, though I think the original can be salvaged. The cylinder cleaned up pretty quick with some acid. Reason the piston seized was the carb fuel screen and the nozzle was clogged with what I assume is paint from the fuel tank. I'll have to keep an eye on that and may have to clean the paint (or liner) out of the tank in the future. For now, the saw runs quite well and has plenty of compression.

Anybody have a good original Jonsered starter grip so I can get rid of this Stihl handle?

Chris B.

Jons90_2_zpsf0422328.jpg


Jons90_1_zps9242fabe.jpg
 
Here's a long-awaited saw. A 90 has always eluded me, and I finally ran across this one that needed a piston. I found a really nice spare piston, though I think the original can be salvaged. The cylinder cleaned up pretty quick with some acid. Reason the piston seized was the carb fuel screen and the nozzle was clogged with what I assume is paint from the fuel tank. I'll have to keep an eye on that and may have to clean the paint (or liner) out of the tank in the future. For now, the saw runs quite well and has plenty of compression.

Anybody have a good original Jonsered starter grip so I can get rid of this Stihl handle?

Chris B.

Jons90_2_zpsf0422328.jpg


Jons90_1_zps9242fabe.jpg


Chris,
I bought a 90 off fleabay last fall...came from Arkansas...looks rough like this one. I too wanted one for a very long time. There was an auction last week on fleabay for a NOS 90 Jug & piston set. I bid to $100 and I think it went to about $139. I would have bid higher, but I haven't gotten into the saw yet.

That starter rope handle will be very hard to come by. Even with the decomp, the handles got abused and pulled out. I used a handle from a 70E for a longtime on my 80, but it looked punk and finally found a handle although I had to buy the whole assembly.:msp_wink: The guys hording and collecting these saws have all the parts.:rolleyes2:

I did have some crap like that come loose in my 80 once. I washed it all out and then used compressed air. I've never had the problem again....I just figured the saw shop had tried to seal the tank with something at some point before I bought the saw used....now you make me wonder if there isn't something like paint that lets go in there over the decades?

Kevin
 
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I bought a 90 off fleabay last fall...came from Arkansas...looks rough like this one.

I don't think mine's too rough. Seen plenty worse. Mine still has most of the decals.

I know what you mean about the starter grips. I have an 80, 81s, 621s, 70s, etc. and some handles look good and some are barely useable. Doesn't help that the handle material is rather pliable.

Is my 90 a late model? The recoil housing and lower rear handle are making me wonder.

Chris B.
 
I don't think mine's too rough. Seen plenty worse. Mine still has most of the decals.

I know what you mean about the starter grips. I have an 80, 81s, 621s, 70s, etc. and some handles look good and some are barely useable. Doesn't help that the handle material is rather pliable.

Is my 90 a late model? The recoil housing and lower rear handle are making me wonder.

Chris B.

As far as this 90 being cherry, it's not. I mean you no disrespect, but as far as 'finds' go for the collection-ists, it's rough. They used that rounded fan shroud and the flatter one of the 80 style. I see more of the rounded ones on the 90, than not. The handle wraps are a puzzle. My 80 has a westcoast full-wrap handle that even terminates to the side with a flat, AV mount, just under the bar cover...now totally extinct. That mount was almost impossible to find even in the mid 80's so......they also did a full-wrap that goes down to where it would turn back to the saw(like on mine), but stops and faces the ground-no connection to the saw.

I don't know the full story on full-wraps....probably it was in conjunction with the factory and a geographical thing as to where the saw was marketed/sold. Some of you have probably never seen full-wraps on the 80/90 saws.

Kevin
 
Some of you have probably never seen full-wraps on the 80/90 saws.

Kevin

I have two of the full wraps with those extinct but intact flat AV mounts. Both on the 81s. I just did a comp test on the nicer 81. It was blowing 215psi before I quit. I didn't want to break the recoil just to make a point.

My original question was referring to the 90s REAR handle and my observation that the lower section is plastic and not mag like my 80 and 81s. The real question about full wraps is why they don't show up in any of my IPLs.

Chris B.

jons81_zps74f3c79f.jpg
 
Chris,
I bought a 90 off fleabay last fall...came from Arkansas...looks rough like this one. I too wanted one for a very long time. There was an auction last week on fleabay for a NOS 90 Jug & piston set. I bid to $100 and I think it went to about $139. I would have bid higher, but I haven't gotten into the saw yet.

That starter rope handle will be very hard to come by. Even with the decomp, the handles got abused and pulled out. I used a handle from a 70E for a longtime on my 80, but it looked punk and finally found a handle although I had to buy the whole assembly.:msp_wink: The guys hording and collecting these saws have all the parts.:rolleyes2:

I did have some crap like that come loose in my 80 once. I washed it all out and then used compressed air. I've never had the problem again....I just figured the saw shop had tried to seal the tank with something at some point before I bought the saw used....now you make me wonder if there isn't something like paint that lets go in there over the decades?

Kevin

If it keeps coming loose, try some carb cleaner and a few hundred bb's. Shake well, rinse, repeat. That grey crap is some nasty stuff once it starts to flake.
 

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