Jonsered Chainsaws

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I did not work on saws for a while but managed to restore this little fella, which turned out to be a nice saw.
Heaps of small issues that needed attention, but it's a fine runner now.



Nice little saw! I really like that 'state'....I usually don't go any further than that and you're fortunate that it has so much original paint left...nice stickers etc. What going on with that plastic wing...do you have some bolt holes wallowed out and have to use the tie? I found one of those replacement wings NOS, but paid dearly for it. There were different styles of those wings believe it or not and so one size doesn't fit all. I might have that very wing, because I used a substitute bottom handle/wing for yrs until I found the correct wing.

Kevin
 
Nice little saw! I really like that 'state'....I usually don't go any further than that and you're fortunate that it has so much original paint left...nice stickers etc. What going on with that plastic wing...do you have some bolt holes wallowed out and have to use the tie? I found one of those replacement wings NOS, but paid dearly for it. There were different styles of those wings believe it or not and so one size doesn't fit all. I might have that very wing, because I used a substitute bottom handle/wing for yrs until I found the correct wing.

Kevin
That wing indeed has a crack on the rear bolt, so I put a tie on it to protect it from further damage. It isn't a big issue to me and like you said, the saw is still in good shape. If I find a good wing in the future, I'll replace it, but I am not in a hurry.
 
Nice early 52 Belgian....I have one in slightly better condition (looks wise) The 52/52E were very well built pro saws for only 49cc. The 52E is nice but the ign modules are hard to find and very spendy when you do...especially when NOS... I kinda like the 52 better......points aren't a problem for me and really require a very minimum maintance if set up right to begin with. If spark is lost, usually a few swipes of a point file and a feeler guage is all that's needed......I like that.....when the E models lose spark, almost always module replacement is the only remedy.

Here is a pic of the "Cadillac" version of this series......the 521E.....it sports a different "E" and 2 "speed" electrically heated handles....though well used this saw starts and runs very well and is used frequently.. I have three more of these saws...which when combined will create two more saws...one will be very nice..stock paint etc.....the other will be a build from scratch with NOS cases, P&C, clutch, oil pump, ign., trigger handle, recoil and clutch covers.....and a few other bit as needed from used saws...but mostly a brand new 521E....all I need is time!!!
 
Nice saw as well. I agree with you that the early electronic ignition versions are a pain in the butt if one is looking for replacement parts. I have successfully retrograded a few saws from electronic to points (041, 031) . I have come to like points as well for oldie saws
 
I can only add that my 80 was used off & on for ten yrs with never cracking open the points cover. When I did go in there, there was little to do..REALLY clean. That's really remarkable considering the hrs...that requires a perfectly matched point, condenser and coil/mag. Obviously, the engineers chose wisely for the long run.....

Kevin
 
I got a saw coming that needs an 18 mount. 10 mm
Anyone got an idea what bars will have the oil holes line up if I mill the slot open or make a spacer?
Thanks

D096/D196 and D009 (large Husky) mount bars can be fit by widening the slot, as can most likely any other "D" tail mount with a smaller than 10 mm slot. The 9.5 mm ones are of course the easiest to adapt (D096/196), and some times they fit as they are.

D025 (Stihl 3003) can be used with a suitable adaptor.
 
Jons 2094 001 (Medium).jpg Jons 2094 002 (Medium).jpg

This landed on my doorstep, so it's next in line after the 51, 61, and 036 are finished up. I'm guessing that the guy that ran this saw every day didn't own it.
 
Is the SEM module on an early 70e the same as that in a 52E?

Well....it is.....but....the two wires that go from the module to the coil and kill switch are different lengths from one to the other. (Hence the different part #s) You will have to modify these depending which way you are going. Make certain the connectors in the recoil cover and case are making a good solid connection...if there is any question I use one of the wavy washers from a recoil screw or whatever between the two, without it touching a ground...both these saws could have issues with these connectors once they had a lot of hrs. on them.
 
Well....it is.....but....the two wires that go from the module to the coil and kill switch are different lengths from one to the other. (Hence the different part #s) You will have to modify these depending which way you are going. Make certain the connectors in the recoil cover and case are making a good solid connection...if there is any question I use one of the wavy washers from a recoil screw or whatever between the two, without it touching a ground...both these saws could have issues with these connectors once they had a lot of hrs. on them.


How about the secondaries? Are they the same? Or are the plug wires different lengths?

Thanks for the reply!
 
How about the secondaries? Are they the same? Or are the plug wires different lengths?

Thanks for the reply!


LOL!! Now you got me there........again the complete coils have different part#s....not sure about the plug wire length but the plug boot is a different shape between the two and that could be the difference.....also the coils wire has the recoil connector on them.....and these are different lengths as well between the two saws.....the coils are the same size and shape and work with both modules.....so I gonna says yes they will work but will need similar mods as the modules.
 
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