Jonsered Chainsaws

[taplinhill]

I looked into the red/silver clutch cover vs. the all red ones. One problem is most of the brochures I have do not have any dates on them, but here is what I came up with. The silver top had nothing to do with it. 45, 451, 49SP, 50, 51, 52, 52E, 521E, 621, 70E, 66E, 80, 801, 90, 110, 111, 111s all came with Silver and red covers (at least for a time). Later brochures show some of the models that hung on longer like the 70E and 451E with all red covers. On some of them you can tell they used an older studio shot of the saw on a newer brochure, so they might not be 100% accurate.

I was thinking about scanning in my brochures and posting them here. It would be a lot of work, but if you guys are interested I will do it. Here's a little taste. Most of them are color.

 

[Cantdog]

I looked into the red/silver clutch cover vs. the all red ones. One problem is most of the brochures I have do not have any dates on them, but here is what I came up with. The silver top had nothing to do with it. 45, 451, 49SP, 50, 51, 52, 52E, 521E, 621, 70E, 66E, 80, 801, 90, 110, 111, 111s all came with Silver and red covers (at least for a time). Later brochures show some of the models that hung on longer like the 70E and 451E with all red covers. On some of them you can tell they used an older studio shot of the saw on a newer brochure, so they might not be 100% accurate.

I was thinking about scanning in my brochures and posting them here. It would be a lot of work, but if you guys are interested I will do it. Here's a little taste. Most of them are color.

View attachment 394479

I have quite a few myself but expect you have more......I for one would like to see these.......always like to see/read that stuff.....never have seen the one you posted introducing the 49SP..cool......Bob sent me up a bunch of stuff a while back......one thing I remember was a models price list.....see if I can find it.....

 

[Real1shepherd]

I use heat Dean, but don't bother freezing anything.........freezing would work fine if using dry ice but the temps you can get from a food freezer are nearly irrelevant from a degree spread.....much easier to get the need temp spread by simply heating. I use an old toaster oven.......first I install both main bearings on the crankshaft.....simply put them in the oven at 240 degrees for 15-20 mins......put the crank in a vise in the vertical position....grab the bearing with a welding glove an drop on the crankshaft...is should drop right into place.....if it doesn't...reheat but bump it up 20 degrees......it will fall right into place without pounding or even tapping......do the other bearing the same way. Allow to cool completely. Then I take the PTO case half put that in the oven at 220 or so for 15-20 mins...remove with glove and slide the crank and bearing into place.....again if it won't slide right in don't force it...reheat bump the temp another 20 degrees.....then you have the crank in the PTO case half. These temps won't bother the bearings or the paint on the case. Now get the PTO case half situated someplace level and solid.....get your case gasket ready with sealer ( I use Hy-Lomar Blue) on both sides and four case bolts and T-handle all set out and handy to grab. Heat the flywheel side case half the same way using the temp/time that worked on the PTO side....when nearly ready install the case gasket on the PTO side line up pins....remove the other case half from the oven and quickly move into position and take down quickly with the four case bolts.
Now set the case down on the bench.......the heat from the second case half will conduct to the PTO side, expanding that slightly again and for a few moments you will be able to shift the crank left and right to get it centered properly so the crank spins freely without any resistance. This all has to be done very quickly......if you don't get the crank right this way a light but sharp blow from a brass or lead hammer will center the bearings. I prefer to not hit anything when assembling a case so I try to get it right with heat.
The books don't tell you to do it this way...they say to install the bearings in the case and then pull the crank into the bearing with special crank assembly tool #xxxxx and when done whack the crank end with a hammer......but this is only because they (1) have the special tools and (2) they need to do this in the shortest possible time as someone is paying for it. My method does take a fair amount longer than just squeezing it all together but I find it a lot more passive and less abrasive to the parts going together...again why press something through a tight hole when you can simply drop it into place....no hammers needed....

You might want to search "49sp and 70E build from scratch or scratches" in the archives.......I built three saws in that thread and documented it thoroughly just so folks like you would have something to go by when doing these procedures.....it doesn't make any where near as much sense without the pics but still may be helpful and if there is a pic you want to see to clarify something, just ask...they are all numbered in the thread so I can post up any number pic you want. Here are a couple showing the heating and crank installs on one 49sp and the 70E......


View attachment 394449 View attachment 394450 View attachment 394451 View attachment 394452 View attachment 394453

Excellent stuff, Robin....thanks for posting that! Anytime you can avoid impacting a bearing is a good thing and will extend its life. I was a journeyman mechanic at a gold mill in CO and we were often working with machinery that was close to a hundred yrs old....I developed new respect for bearings and we treated them like they were gold...lol It was $500/minute if the mill was shut down to any extent.....and bearing failure was a huge part of that problem.

Do you treat the gasket itself with hylomar sealer before you place it in the pin position on the case half?

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

I looked into the red/silver clutch cover vs. the all red ones. One problem is most of the brochures I have do not have any dates on them, but here is what I came up with. The silver top had nothing to do with it. 45, 451, 49SP, 50, 51, 52, 52E, 521E, 621, 70E, 66E, 80, 801, 90, 110, 111, 111s all came with Silver and red covers (at least for a time). Later brochures show some of the models that hung on longer like the 70E and 451E with all red covers. On some of them you can tell they used an older studio shot of the saw on a newer brochure, so they might not be 100% accurate.

I was thinking about scanning in my brochures and posting them here. It would be a lot of work, but if you guys are interested I will do it. Here's a little taste. Most of them are color.

View attachment 394479

Ah man, I'll say I'm interested!! So you're saying that the 80/90 during it's production run probably always had the silver in the clutch cover? Which would mean that anytime you see those saws with a entirely red clutch cover, it was a replacement?

Kevin

 

[WoodDean]

I looked into the red/silver clutch cover vs. the all red ones.

Thanks taplinhill, good info.

 

[taplinhill]

Ah man, I'll say I'm interested!! So you're saying that the 80/90 during it's production run probably always had the silver in the clutch cover? Which would mean that anytime you see those saws with a entirely red clutch cover, it was a replacement?

Kevin

I'd say the 80 would have always had the silver, as they show 801's with it. 801 and 90 probably could have come either way, early vs. late, but I have no real proof.

 

[Real1shepherd]

I'd say the 80 would have always had the silver, as they show 801's with it. 801 and 90 probably could have come either way, early vs. late, but I have no real proof.

Thanks....yeah the early production numbers versus later....I can find no real info out there and Acres doesn't address that. Other than reconstructing from sales lit and talking with owners who have bone stock saws from different production runs, I don't know how one would do that....? I think one of my 90's is a later production run, but it has the silver in the clutch cover....who knows though if it's the original cover.

But like you said, sometimes they used old stock photos to illustrate newer saws....that's misleading as hell.

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

Excellent stuff, Robin....thanks for posting that! Anytime you can avoid impacting a bearing is a good thing and will extend its life. I was a journeyman mechanic at a gold mill in CO and we were often working with machinery that was close to a hundred yrs old....I developed new respect for bearings and we treated them like they were gold...lol It was $500/minute if the mill was shut down to any extent.....and bearing failure was a huge part of that problem.

Do you treat both sides of the gasket itself with hylomar sealer before you place it in the pin position on the case half?

Kevin

Yes I coat both sides with a thin, even film while the second case half is heating.....

I feel the same way about bearings...some people don't.....

 

[albert]

I usually pull the crank thru the bearings with some spacers and washers using the threads on the crank. Spacer bears on the inner race and takes little effort. If I use a clutch center hub for the pto side, I can usually pull the crank in by turning the hub by hand.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Yes I coat both sides with a thin, even film while the second case half is heating.....

I feel the same way about bearings...some people don't.....

I thought as much...placing the sealer right on the hot cases would probably 'super set' it. Bearings can seemingly take a lot of abuse initially, but in the long run they are prone to early failure from rough installation practices. We fired guys we caught beating on them....especially ex-miners-guys who used wrenches for hammers...lol

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

I usually pull the crank thru the bearings with some spacers and washers using the threads on the crank. Spacer bears on the inner race and takes little effort. If I use a clutch center hub for the pto side, I can usually pull the crank in by turning the hub by hand.

That's acceptable with bearings;pressing on the inner race only. I like Robin's 'no stress' way the best...but it would take more time if that's a factor.

Kevin

 

[Zero_sum]

Definitely interested in the scans as well. Always cool to see that kind of stuff.

 

[SawBawss]

Hey all, got directed to your thread. I am trying to find crank seals for a 49sp. Anybody know where I can find them or what a substitute would be?

 

[Cantdog]

Hey all, got directed to your thread. I am trying to find crank seals for a 49sp. Anybody know where I can find them or what a substitute would be?

Yep......these are the ones I use.....probably get different ones too. These come from a bearing supply house like Motion Ind, Applied Tech etc.

The size you need is 15MM ID X 30MM OD X 7MM thick/deep. OEM seals are 6MM deep but the 7s work fine on the old Jonsereds...actually fits ALL of the Jonsereds of this era from the 49 all the way to the 111S.......If you get seals different than the ones in the pic make certain that they are double lipped seals...needs to hold pressure an vac......

 

[SawBawss]

Wow! thanks! Thats a huge help!

 

[Real1shepherd]

That Canadian seller is back again with his NOS parts:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Jonsereds-910-chainsaw-parts

And then there is the old 90....that was creamed for parts and put up for sale. To me it's worth $50 due to what's been robbed off it so far. Free shipping though. Not interested in this one, but if anyone is interested in the parts that it does have left...might be an OK price. Just the P&C are worth that, if decent.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jonsered-model-90-for-parts-or-fix

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

Wow! thanks! Thats a huge help!

Yeah, if you have access to one of those bearing houses, that's the only way to go. They'll mic if for ya and work with you on application, and shaft rpm etc.

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

Any of you guys watching the thread in the saw forum about 3D printing a 70E flywheel fan????? Cool stuff...and it's done..... headed to be tested.....hope it holds up during testing......3D printing could be very helpful on old NLA parts......of course we are on the ground level of 3D printing, no matter how amazing it seems to us.

They are starting to print food......not a big jump from here to the "Enterprise's" replicators......

 

[WoodDean]

And then there is the old 90....that was creamed for parts and put up for sale. To me it's worth $50

I looked at that one last nite Kev, I agree with your price tag.

 

[WoodDean]

Any of you guys watching the thread in the saw forum about 3D printing a 70E flywheel fan?????

I wasn't but now I'm going to go and look it up. Thanks for the heads-up.