Jonsered Chainsaws
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WoodDean
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hehehehe . . . . . a case of beer and a Saturday and I would look through the red pile for you.
Think it may be safer for them if I look ?hehehehe . . . . . a case of beer and a Saturday and I would look through the red pile for you.
OK, for some reason I thought you paid a lot more. You didn't get hurt at that price and you can't blame the seller if the saw was just passing through his hands I guess and sold as a non-runner/parts saw.....oh well! No way around a stiff shipping charge unless it's thrown loose in a box and sent.....had that happen...lol.
Wouldn't the electric handles make it an EV? Always wanted to try electric handles, but never had a saw with 'em. Was working at the beginning of winter once up on the Grand Mesa in CO in about three ft of snow. I can tell ya the mornings were a real bear...probably zero or below...but ya warmed up pretty quick with the work. Course I was a young bull then too...lol. I was cutting OG Engelmann Spruce the Forest Service had marked...man that was something!
Kevin
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Kinda funny.......it is actually an EV and calls it such in the IPL....however the 521 did not come without heated handles and electronic ign......and the sticker on the upper AV handle mount only says Jonsereds 521E...never seen one that said 521EV....451E and EVs, 910E and EVs ......yes.... but not the 521....odd......A 630 is designated as a 630 V if it has heated handles.....perhaps E ign was old hat by the time the 630 came out and not worth mentioning......
Weird, but maybe like you say, electronic ignition was old hat by then. So you're thinkin' that even the heated handles on that saw are part of the Frankensaw Experiment? You know more about the heated handles than most....never saw a J'red with one.
Kevin
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No what I said was that the 521 model didn't come without heated handles.....they all had heated handles......unlike the models that could come either way, with heated handles (EV) or not (E) like 910 E or EV and the 451 E or EV......there was no choice with the 521E....if you wanted this saw motor with out heated handles you would have bought a 52E......top ends are the same but the flywheel side cases, flywheel and ign are not....
WoodDean
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I bought another 621 today.
You can't stop me, you can only hope to contain me.
You can't stop me, you can only hope to contain me.
Lol...you're correct, I read your post wrong. I had no idea that J'red had a saw that only came with heated handles!
Kevin
Dean....save some for the rest of us, OK....lol
You know the drill......pics or it didn't happen...lol
Kevin
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Like said the 521 was an odd, very expensive, 49cc pro saw.....the "Cadillac" of the series.....in addition to the stock headed handles it also was the first Jonserreds to come stock equipped with a chain brake.....this was also the only way the 521 could be bought......the chain brake was a dealer installed option on all the other Pro an SP saws at the time but none came equipped with one from the factory...except the 521EV.
One interesting thing about those old chain brakes...the 521 and 49sp/50/51/52/52E chain brakes were just that....similar to a modern chain brake but no where near as efficient, having just a shoe that pushed to the clutch drum, rather than a band all the way around the drum. However the chain brakes on the 621, 80, 801 and 90 also included a ign interrupt when activated......
Interesting tidbit, Robin. Never had a chain brake on a saw so far.....always opted for without if I was buying new pro saws. So what was the retail price of the 521 new and did it sell well?
Kevin
WoodDean
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This is what I started with. I took a half from one and a half from another. As it turns out I couldn't use this because it was cracked.
WoodDean
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The left side turned out really well, the right had some issues in the bottom of the tank but it should be ok.
WoodDean
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Here I have a couple of accessories installed to start the rebuild.
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I'm not positive on the original price but $425 sticks in my mind. I paid $250 in 1978 for my original 49SP....the 52 was $275...the 52E was $300 and the 621 was $350 at the time up here. I don't think the 521 sold that great due mostly to the cost...49SP sold the best and the 52E came in second. You could buy a 10-10 Mac for $180 at the same time....I think the SXL Homelites were about the same money too......I was laughed at for buying my 49 SP for such an outrageous price.....I still have it all these years later....none of the laughers still have theirs though and it would simply out cut either of those models.....handled way better and was quieter too.......That saw put food on the table the first three winters I had it, cutting saw logs and pulpwood and putting up 21 cord of maple and beech firewood every year too. Then I bought an ancient diesel powered rotary sawmill with a partner and we did selective cutting of old growth white pine and spruce saw logs for 5-6 seasons. We had my 49sp and his 70E for felling and limbing. We'd switch off on the saws at lunch time. The old girl has been totally rebuilt as I wore it completely out...new crank and bearings, new top end, handles, seals, oil pump, AVs and ported.......plus a bunch of other NOS stuff. These are some of the missing pics from the "49SP and 70E Build From Scratch" thread I did on here a few yrs back...before the hack......the thread is still there but missing the 200 plus pics I posted of the three builds. My old 49SP is the one sporting the new Sugi bar......
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Nice job Dean!!!! I had to laugh...I was looking at a similar pic of my 49SP cases all cleaned up just a second ago!!! As you can see by the looks of the tanks...she didn't sit around much!!! Look at the inside bottom of the tanks........You can see the worn paint from where the fuel filter sat when bucking and again up on the side when felling!!! LOL!!!!
WoodDean
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Wow, mine only has the mark on the bottom. Must have been a firewood saw.
Question: What is your process for installing the crank bearings? I've seen some use heat on the case and freeze the bearings. Is this what you do?
Wow...that is a lot of money for the 521 back then! I was buying Husky 2100 pro power heads for about $550 back then from the 'real' Baileys. Such a bummer on all those missing pics....a lot of members left this site for that very reason-their hacked pics. Must be really proud to have taken the time to completely rebuild the 49sp...love sentimental stories like that!
Lol....I know all about laughers...bought a one ton Dodge with the gas V-10 new back in '95. Took unbelievable heat from all the rednecks that bought the diesel instead. Laughed my as$ off when diesel went way over the price of premium and diesel pickups were for sale everywhere.. Still working out of the truck and it's paid for itself about five time over. Never been inside the engine or tranny/transfer case. Who's having the last laugh now......
Kevin
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I use heat Dean, but don't bother freezing anything.........freezing would work fine if using dry ice but the temps you can get from a food freezer are nearly irrelevant from a degree spread.....much easier to get the need temp spread by simply heating. I use an old toaster oven.......first I install both main bearings on the crankshaft.....simply put them in the oven at 240 degrees for 15-20 mins......put the crank in a vise in the vertical position....grab the bearing with a welding glove an drop on the crankshaft...is should drop right into place.....if it doesn't...reheat but bump it up 20 degrees......it will fall right into place without pounding or even tapping......do the other bearing the same way. Allow to cool completely. Then I take the PTO case half put that in the oven at 220 or so for 15-20 mins...remove with glove and slide the crank and bearing into place.....again if it won't slide right in don't force it...reheat bump the temp another 20 degrees.....then you have the crank in the PTO case half. These temps won't bother the bearings or the paint on the case. Now get the PTO case half situated someplace level and solid.....get your case gasket ready with sealer ( I use Hy-Lomar Blue) on both sides and four case bolts and T-handle all set out and handy to grab. Heat the flywheel side case half the same way using the temp/time that worked on the PTO side....when nearly ready install the case gasket on the PTO side line up pins....remove the other case half from the oven and quickly move into position and take down quickly with the four case bolts.
Now set the case down on the bench.......the heat from the second case half will conduct to the PTO side, expanding that slightly again and for a few moments you will be able to shift the crank left and right to get it centered properly so the crank spins freely without any resistance. This all has to be done very quickly......if you don't get the crank right this way a light but sharp blow from a brass or lead hammer will center the bearings. I prefer to not hit anything when assembling a case so I try to get it right with heat.
The books don't tell you to do it this way...they say to install the bearings in the case and then pull the crank into the bearing with special crank assembly tool #xxxxx and when done whack the crank end with a hammer......but this is only because they (1) have the special tools and (2) they need to do this in the shortest possible time as someone is paying for it. My method does take a fair amount longer than just squeezing it all together but I find it a lot more passive and less abrasive to the parts going together...again why press something through a tight hole when you can simply drop it into place....no hammers needed....
You might want to search "49sp and 70E build from scratch or scratches" in the archives.......I built three saws in that thread and documented it thoroughly just so folks like you would have something to go by when doing these procedures.....it doesn't make any where near as much sense without the pics but still may be helpful and if there is a pic you want to see to clarify something, just ask...they are all numbered in the thread so I can post up any number pic you want. Here are a couple showing the heating and crank installs on one 49sp and the 70E......
