briantutt
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it's this one.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/index.php?posts/4595733
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Jonsered Chainsaws
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Cool.....I bought a bunch of those rubber mandrels online and made different diameters for different bores.
Short of a hone, they work great. Some of the platings are so thin, honing can ruin a bore. Basically, if the ScotchBrite pad doesn't work, I start looking for another jug.
Kevin
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briantutt
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I ruined the first one I did. I think the key is no pressure, just let the flapping grit do the work and check very often on what is happening.
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I start with the Scotchbrite and if that doesn't get it all off I use a bit of muriatic acid to clean it up.
Not sure what Homelite used on the old cylinders but it's as tough as nails.
Not sure what Homelite used on the old cylinders but it's as tough as nails.
The Husky 2100 bore was HARD.....I finally just gave in. It was acceptable. No aluminum transfers, just not a perfect job.
Kevin
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Kevin
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Jacklefty
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There isn't any aluminum transfer just shiny well used cylinder walls. Is there any use to put cross hatches back into the walls like auto engines have? Are there special Ball hones for 2 stroke cylinders?
Yes, Bailey's has hones and honing oil. However, I would be very, very, VERY careful in their use. They do have a video on how to use their hones. The plating on chainsaw jugs is extremely thin....chrome plate is maybe a tad thicker than Nakasil. And Nakasil a tad harder than chrome. If you really want to try honing, get some well used jugs that are pretty much trashed and practice. It's a VERY light, timed stroke to get the best results. Mahle used Nakasil plating as early as '67. Acres makes a distinction between Nakasil and chrome plate on all the different saw models listed on his site....if that's even close to accurate, I couldn't say.
Most folks just polish the bore with ScotchBrite and throw in Cabers.....let it go at that. Tim's method of using muriatic acid to remove the aluminum transfers and polishing with ScotchBrite is an excellent, safe method. Trust me when I tell ya, that plating whichever process, is THIN....lol.
Kevin
Most folks just polish the bore with ScotchBrite and throw in Cabers.....let it go at that. Tim's method of using muriatic acid to remove the aluminum transfers and polishing with ScotchBrite is an excellent, safe method. Trust me when I tell ya, that plating whichever process, is THIN....lol.
Kevin
SawTroll
Information Collector
A ball hone sounds right to me if you do anything with the bore at all, you don't want to polish the bore, rather the opposite.
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As far as honing goes.......I wouldn't. As Kevin has stated the plating is very, very thin and a ball hone will concentrate material removal at the edges of the ports as the balls fall into the openings then are dragged up and out over the edge again to the surface of the bore. This action will remove the thin plating in these areas much quicker than out in the field of the bore. The traditional cross hatch is required in a cast iron bore with cast iron rings so that the hatch will "cut" the rings to help with the break in.....both the bore and the ring wears in together to form a good seal. In a plated bore the cyl does not wear in....it is the rings that have to conform to the cyl.....the only thing that a polished bore will do is perhaps take a longer break in period as opposed to a slight cross hatch.....the hatch marks in a brand new cyl are not very pronounced...nor would you want them to be. Acid, scotch bright and/or perhaps some 600 grit wet/dri sandpaper with oil or any combination of the above is acceptable cyl prep. A hone is a not good tool for these types of motors.....way to easy to over do it.....much safer with scotch bright.....you are not looking to remove plating material, only foreign material....you can't hone or polish a scratch out of a plated bore. If a scratch is deep enough to snag your fingernail when dragged across it....you had better find another cyl....the plating has already been violated and it is to hard and to thin to be able to remove enough material to ever make it smooth again......and still be plated....
So true what Robin said...in my 2100 jug I had tiny pits I thought might come out...they didn't. I agree;if your fingernail can catch a scratch, look for another jug. I hadn't though about the hone balls slipping into the ports and cutting the edges more as they come back out-good point!
Kevin
Kevin
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Yes the 80 P&C is what the 801 has stock.....an 801 is simply an 80 with 90 top covers and a better airfilter.............or a 90 with an 80 top end....however you want to look at it.......a 90 cyl will bolt right up too, plus you get a decomp as well as a couple more MM bore......then you would have a 90....not an 801...you can go either way...
Lots of people convert the 80 to a 90 top end. You already have the top cover, AF and carb elbow of the 90. Great upgrade when buy the 90 slug & jug for a decent price.
A few tiny pits are OK...but not a lot or big pits. It's a breakdown of the plating over time.
$170 for a 80 NOS slug and jug is OK.....they're getting harder to find. There's a AS member in another thread that swears by a replate company up in Canada. Has had a LOT of snowmobile jugs and friend's done too....all with stellar results. $280 Canadian. For the really rare stuff...this may be the way to go.....thinking about plating a 2100 jug.
Kevin
A few tiny pits are OK...but not a lot or big pits. It's a breakdown of the plating over time.
$170 for a 80 NOS slug and jug is OK.....they're getting harder to find. There's a AS member in another thread that swears by a replate company up in Canada. Has had a LOT of snowmobile jugs and friend's done too....all with stellar results. $280 Canadian. For the really rare stuff...this may be the way to go.....thinking about plating a 2100 jug.
Kevin
Jacklefty
ArboristSite Operative
There all tiny pits in the jug. No bigger than the tip of a bic pen. I think I'm going to clean up the jug a bit and throw some new rings in her and see how she screams. If it turns out to not work I'll start looking for a replacement p&c
Good plan....you're only out the ring cost and your elbow grease.
Another problem with the hone is you have to buy one for ea bore size....can get expensive.
I got 160lbs out of my 2100 jug after the ScotchBrite and the Cabers. I'm not sure the 2100 ever had high compression out the gate like the older J'reds. I know that they have to have at least 150lbs to start and work properly all day in scale. My work 80 pulls about 160lbs after all these yrs and it's still a powerhouse for its size. I'd like to say my low hr Arkansas 90 was well over 200lbs, but it's not. Somewhere around 170-175lbs if I remember correctly. It might benefit from just a set of Cabers.
Kevin
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Here' a a used 90 P&C this is clean and looks pretty decent. BIN or Best Offer and free shipping....might get it for $50 bux if you hop on it....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jonsered-90...233702?hash=item4b0a3bba66:g:xowAAOSw8w1YAVwT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jonsered-90...233702?hash=item4b0a3bba66:g:xowAAOSw8w1YAVwT
Jacklefty
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Thanks sir! Put in an offer, I'll see if I get it.
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Good luck!!
Internet pics of bores are really tough to discern....I would ask him if there are any scratches inside the bore that a fingernail could catch on. That way it's in print and his answer if you find the cylinder toast.
Kevin
Kevin
astnmacgto
Carnac The Magnificent
What do you all know about a jonsered 520sp as far as qulaity and performance, also do any parts interchange between a 2050 turbo and 2051 turbo thanks
ADLM
ADLM
