there is zero carbon in the exhaust port. never seen that before. there is a very smooth, shiny black finish that almost looks like an enamel. maybe it's carbon but there is no build up. strange.
Jonsered Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
on the 90, when I bought it, I didn't try to start is as I didn't want to suck the stinky years old fuel into the carb or engine. I did hang it from the starter handle and did pull slowly a couple of times and there seemed to be quite a bit of compression. but when I removed the starter just now, the engine is very easy to turn over by turning the flywheel with my hand. not as easy as when I push the compression release in but pretty easy. with the compression release in, turning by hand I can hear the compression bleeding off. with the compression release out I don't hear any compression bleed off.
went to install the new starter rope and handle on the 621 and broke the f#@king return spring. damn. I was able to bend a new hook on the spring but after starting the saw twice, the new hook straightened out. is it possible to bend a new hook and harden it by heating just the hook to red and cooling it in oil like a knife? anyone know?
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2009
- Messages
- 16,759
- Reaction score
- 16,058
- Location
- Beautiful Rockbound Coast of Maine
Same as the 80 and 621
don't remember that on the 621. actually, not sure I've even taken the cover off of it. runs like a top.
the 24" bar on the saw is a Tillotson. had no idea they made chainsaw bars. is this the same Tillotson that made carburetors?
Common in older Jonsereds. Most if not all 'Silver tops' and the 801/90, 621 etc.
Kevin
Never seen that on a bar. If it's spelled exactly the same, I'd have to assume so, although I doubt they made the bar. Branding/badging thing......
Maybe I've seen that on the Net...I dunno, I'm old and few things impress/shock me these days....lol.
Kevin
Yes, that makes more sense. Tilton was a major Jonsereds distributor from MN and east to the coast. Here it was Scotsco.
Kevin
Kevin
You're changing the dimension of the spring....I wouldn't. Plenty of NOS springs out there. Try the sources I mentioned earlier. Jonsereds was great about sharing the same parts all the way through 'families' of saws.
The end of springs are sometimes heat treated, sometimes not. Best to look at a NOS spring and see. That can make them too brittle and they break easier....it's an engineer's design choice.
If you're gonna heat it; cherry red to oil...let it cool and then heat to straw and air cool.....it won't be so brittle.
Kevin
I bet you're right. print is pretty faded, will look again.
You're not gonna know for sure until the saw is back together, choke off, throttle wide open and do a compression check. Anything over 150psi is good for work. Anything over that is longevity gravy.
The saw doesn't have enough hrs on it for carbon buildup most likely. If you have a cam, run it down in the cylinder. If you're not getting at least 150 psi in that saw, suspect the decomp or a seal leak first. Personally, I wouldn't trust those old crank seals. They age whether you're using the saw or not....inactivity dries/shrinks them out too.
Lots of classy old saws have been ruined in just a tankful because they thought the seals "should be OK".
Kevin
You will discover that interesting touch (coil on the cover) on a number of Jonsereds saws, your 621 as just one example.
Mark
P.S. sorry for the repetition, I didn't see all the other posts...
Mark
P.S. sorry for the repetition, I didn't see all the other posts...
always happy to hear from you Mark.
so clean now. took hours. saw was full of a powdery red sawdust. are there red cedars in Wisconsin?
