Just ruined my new 290 - got a question for y'all.

[kevinm9558]

How did that topic turn up - I wasn't aware it did?

Homo-nyms ST.
I think you guys are too old for this conversation...
What was this thread about anyways???opcorn:

 

[barneyrb]

In this case, breaks is appropriate. But yeah, you got me. I'm getting sloppy in my old age.

are appropriate........

 

[barneyrb]

Come'on Barney, give him a BRAKE will ya'? I mean we're on a tree-cutting forum for cryin' out loud! All this proper grammer trash has got to STOP!
:tongue2:

With the resident jackazz, he will corrected every time I catch him......

 

[fuelk2]

I do, but my concern is this: If it got hot enough, the plastic cages of the crank bearings may have gotten damaged. Maybe, maybe not. Should the cage fail on the clutch side bearing, the balls will come out and go travelling around the engine. No further explanation needed. Either way, the clutch side crank seal is probably going to need replaced.

Not to sound like the safety police, but the OP should probably be cutting with someone with some experience. If a guy cannot tell that the saw is straining against itself with the brake on, how is he going to tell when the bar starts to pinch?

Point taken. The ironic thing is that I'd been doing just that, only with my Dad and his saw. Like some others on here, he doesn't like starting with the brake on fearing that it will damage the saw. So I guess trying to be careful got me out of what I'd been taught to do and bit me.

Still, I do know a more experienced operator wouldn't have let this happen (and I've been beating myself up over that), so I'll be availing myself to a fee more "training sessions" if and when I'm able to get this saw repaired or replaced.

 

[SawTroll]

Homo-nyms ST.
I think you guys are too old for this conversation...
What was this thread about anyways???opcorn:

Right, I have no idea what that is - but maybe there are someone else that is too young for this forum?

This isn't a silly thing like Facebook or Twitter. :msp_biggrin:

 

[WKEND LUMBERJAK]

Right, I have no idea what that is - but maybe there are someone else that is too young for this forum?

This isn't a silly thing like Facebook or Twitter. :msp_biggrin:

yes but some guys turn these threads into a carnival.

 

[beingeasy769]

Well, when I bought my Husky 350, I also bought the 90 dollar Chinese clone on Ebay. I've found that more than half of the parts are compatible. Trouble is, you'll never get the same Chinese saw twice. I got lucky.

 

[SawTroll]

Point taken. The ironic thing is that I'd been doing just that, only with my Dad and his saw. Like some others on here, he doesn't like starting with the brake on fearing that it will damage the saw. So I guess trying to be careful got me out of what I'd been taught to do and bit me.

Still, I do know a more experienced operator wouldn't have let this happen (and I've been beating myself up over that), so I'll be availing myself to a fee more "training sessions" if and when I'm able to get this saw repaired or replaced.

The sad thing about (organised) "training lessons" is that they likely will tell you to do exactly what you did (minus walking away with the brake still on, and the saw at "high idle" of course) - and the manual will also tell you to start with the brake on. On the flip side, an "experienced" person that you know may have really bad habits, specially if he titles himself a logger - so it may be better overall to go "by the book", and just cut the worst crap out (like always using the brake and starting on the ground).

Regarding starting, find a "teacher" that is good at dropstarting, meaning that he doesn't let the bar whip around close to the body, or anything else, in the process. If done right, dropstarting is by far the safest and most convenient way to start a saw - worst is starting on the ground, in both regards + it is easy to mess up the chain by hitting the ground. If you ever start a saw on the ground, the brake better be on!

 

[MotorSeven]

You'd be surprised. There have been pictures posted here in the past of saws run with the brake on. If it was ran long enough to make your brake inoperable, it was run long enough to do a *lot* of damage. First of all, the clutch, when slipping, generates tremendous heat above idle. Secondly, there is plastic right behind, in front of, and all around the clutch. With that much heat being generated, it has to go somewhere. When plastic is exposed to heat, it melts. Frankly though, even metal cased saws would be severely damaged if run long enough to make the chain brake not work.

Iv'e been busy building my log house & have not been on here too much the last 2 years. I read this from SM and the earth is definitely wobbling on it's axis, or I have unknowingly slipped into a parallel universe. I had to rep ya for that informative post.....carry on Sir.

fuelk2, we really need pictures of the meltdown. The ensuing forensic examination and conclusion here on AS would rival any top homicide expert in North America.

 

[SawTroll]

Well, when I bought my Husky 350, I also bought the 90 dollar Chinese clone on Ebay. I've found that more than half of the parts are compatible. Trouble is, you'll never get the same Chinese saw twice. I got lucky.

Even though the parts are compatible, they usually are made of cheaper materiel, that are heavier and "easier" to break. The tolerances hardly are the same, as well. It is the same with "aftermarket" parts made in China or close to there.

 

[nmurph]

are appropriate........

Nope, is would be correct.

 

[beingeasy769]

agreed

I agree wholeheartedly that the Chinese parts are inferior to the OEM, but I have an entire saw for emergency spare parts that cost me under 100. 00 dollars. Same day repair. Quality or not I believe it to be a wise move until better quality parts can be purchased.

 

[barneyrb]

Nope, is would be correct.

Wrong answer....

The correct answer is below:

A break is appropriate.

Breaks are appropriate.

Singular vs plural.......

 

[Wagnerwerks]

Wrong answer....

The correct answer is below:

A break is appropriate.

Breaks are appropriate.

Singular vs plural.......

Alright guys... I'm married to an English teacher. I get enough of this at home

 

[formersawrep]

Regarding starting, find a "teacher" that is good at dropstarting, meaning that he doesn't let the bar whip around close to the body, or anything else, in the process. If done right, dropstarting is by far the safest and most convenient way to start a saw - worst is starting on the ground, in both regards + it is easy to mess up the chain by hitting the ground. If you ever start a saw on the ground, the brake better be on!

I gave up trying to convert dropstarters years ago, but I have to ask - Why would anyone think that starting on the ground with the brake on is more dangerous than dropstarting?

 

[nmurph]

Wrong answer....

The correct answer is below:

A break is appropriate.

Breaks are appropriate.

Singular vs plural.......

You are using breaks as a noun and the S does determine the singular/plural form that should follow.

 

[spacemule]

are appropriate........

Nah, that one is correct. Context is key. The word "breaks" is appropriate. Not the word "breaks" are appropriate.

 

[spacemule]

And since when did you wood ticks become such a crotchety old bunch of word sniffers? :msp_tongue:

 

[SawTroll]

I gave up trying to convert dropstarters years ago, but I have to ask - Why would anyone think that starting on the ground with the brake on is more dangerous than dropstarting?

Just one thing, you could fall on top of the saw if a foot slipped, and that could be fatal if that brake wasn't on anyway, or it failed at the wrong moment. Even if not moving, the sharp chain can create some damage. The chance of a foot slipping obiously is greater when starting on the ground, and will get worse if you have trouble getting it started. Proper dropstarting will give you a large advantage regarding a snappy pull, and the chance of anything going wrong is much less. However, the picture turnes upside down, if the user doesn't know how to do a proper dropstart - I have seen many stupid ways of doing it, among which the "yo-yo" start is the worst. A proper one is more about opposing forces from two hands, and not so much about an actual drop of the saw.

I am right handed, and prefere to have the right hand on the handlebar, and the left on the starter rope. That makes the bar pointing pretty much away from you. If you reverse the hands (very common) the margins are getting much slimmer - I don't like that nearly as well.

Anyway, if you put the brake on, and makes sure it works, there is no chance at all that anything can go really wrong, and the possibility of falling on top of a sharp bar/chain is gone (compared to a ground start). I only do that under a few not too common circomstances (mentioned earlier in the thread), as there usually is no real chance that anything can go fatally wrong anyway.

 

[Gologit]

And since when did you wood ticks become such a crotchety old bunch of word sniffers? :msp_tongue:

Winter. Cabin fever. General discontent. Same thing every year.


Hey, is that Haiku?