Ihave a stihl 026. Runs good,cuts good. Was thinking about using a more agressive chain. How agressive can I go without being dangerous? I consider myself a high intermediate chainsaw user. How much are the designation of hi kickback chains are based on reality? Are they based on OSHA and litigation,and gov reg. Is there a agressive chain I can buy and if used with common sense will not endanger me?
Let`s talk aggressive chains.
- Thread starter 4pwr
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Simonizer
Addicted to ArboristSite
I wouldn't worry too much about an "aggressive" chain on a saw that small. My advice would be to run 72 Ga. full-house (72LG) and make sure the chain is filed at 25 degrees, has enough hook, and bring the rakers down about 0.025" below the cutters. This should be smooth and safe and should pull itself into the wood without need of dogging in. Cheers buddy.4pwr said:
Marky Mark
Hell's Kitchen Trapper
Get yourself some 50 thou Square ground full comp. That will insure the smoothest fastest cutting. 
What is wrong with plain old Stihl 26 RS or 33 RS chain, these are full chisel good right out of the box and with the rakers filed down an extra 3 to 5 thou they will self feed enough to pull on your arms effectively.
I would stick with plain ol .325 RS.
Marky Mark
Hell's Kitchen Trapper
Ben I find 325 to rough when cutting.
I have found 3/8 round ground cuts slower than .325 and mine is built by ED. Square ground like you guys run is a differant story.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Nothing, I think, with the possible exception that they are not low-vibe chain (RSC is, but availiable in 3/8" only so far).Lobo said:
From what I have read, and my limited experience (73LP, 73LG and 36RSC), it seems like the Stihl roundground chisel chain tend to be a bit more agressive than the Oregon, provided raker hight is the same ......
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timberwolf
Addicted to ArboristSite
My 260 also likes .325 RS. Square files just fine with the flat file. The hex shaped file was problematic though.
RS .325 8 tooth was faster than anything I could do with a 3/8 7 tooth. Maybe a 3/8 8 tooth with a thined bar / chain could do better, but thats too much work right now.
RS .325 8 tooth was faster than anything I could do with a 3/8 7 tooth. Maybe a 3/8 8 tooth with a thined bar / chain could do better, but thats too much work right now.
SawTroll
Information Collector
3/8x7 vs. .325x8
Former member Glens did some tests with an 036 a while ago.
The results are posted in post number 5 in this tread;
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=20520&page=1&highlight=036+3%2F8x7
He found that the .325 was fastest on the 036.
Former member Glens did some tests with an 036 a while ago.
The results are posted in post number 5 in this tread;
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=20520&page=1&highlight=036+3%2F8x7
He found that the .325 was fastest on the 036.
Marky Mark
Hell's Kitchen Trapper
Why aren't race chains filed from it? There was another test run by Woodsjunkie and he found the 325 to be slower.
SawTroll
Information Collector
I think that what is fastest is highly dependant on how powerful the saw is, but as long as chain speed is about the same and cutters about the same size, more cutters will win as long as the chain has room enough to transport the chips out of the wood.
Probably there is even more factors that enter the picture, so I could very well be wrong. :angel:
Probably there is even more factors that enter the picture, so I could very well be wrong. :angel:
SawTroll said:
Right on, additionnally I think that the type of wood you are cutting in would also influence this.
I think that on saws below 60cc's .325 & NK would carry an advantage.
As an example I did a test this spring in woods up 10'' in dia. or so and to my surprise I would cut faster with a 7 tooth rim over an 8 tooth rim using new stihl RS chains. (26RS = .325 at .063 gauge, same saw, same bar)
12 inches and above woods, the 8 tooth rim came out the winner.
Which now has convinced me that on smaller saws of 60cc's and less cutting 12 inch or less dia. wood, the way to go is .050 gauge .325 and narrow kerf using a 16 inch bar which is plenty long for that size timber.
timberwolf
Addicted to ArboristSite
Chip clearance may well become a factor in larger wood, I tried the .325 on an 066, 9 pin .325 vs 8 pin 3/8. In small wood (8" poplar) the .325 may have even edged out the 3/8.
In 11" wood the 3/8 was faster by a good bit. Though cutter size is nearly exactly the same there is more clearance in the gullets and under the tooth with the 3/8.
Put a 9 pin 3/8 on vs 9 pin .325 and there was no contest (3/8 faster), though I would like to get a 10-11 pin .325 just to try.
There is no way I can see .325 RS cutting rougher than 3/8 RS or full chisle 3/8. More cutters, lighter chasis same tooth size. Must have been something else going on in sawtrolls comparison.
Point of interest, in a bit of practice cutting Crofter and I did, his 026 worked beter with 3/8 than 325, and mine beter with 325 than 3/8. The saws are not built the same though, I think I have him beat off the pipe and his saw wakes up on the pipe. Just not that simple. We did not double check the test or try all chain and saw combinations both on and off pipe though.
In 11" wood the 3/8 was faster by a good bit. Though cutter size is nearly exactly the same there is more clearance in the gullets and under the tooth with the 3/8.
Put a 9 pin 3/8 on vs 9 pin .325 and there was no contest (3/8 faster), though I would like to get a 10-11 pin .325 just to try.
There is no way I can see .325 RS cutting rougher than 3/8 RS or full chisle 3/8. More cutters, lighter chasis same tooth size. Must have been something else going on in sawtrolls comparison.
Point of interest, in a bit of practice cutting Crofter and I did, his 026 worked beter with 3/8 than 325, and mine beter with 325 than 3/8. The saws are not built the same though, I think I have him beat off the pipe and his saw wakes up on the pipe. Just not that simple. We did not double check the test or try all chain and saw combinations both on and off pipe though.
In my test, chip clearance was the only factor I could attribute this to, all the rest being equal.
The error I later found I did was not to repeat the same test on a different day, basically wondering if atmosheric conditions somehow have an influence on this in anyway. I would have had to leave this saws set-up untouched to repeat this same test.
The error I later found I did was not to repeat the same test on a different day, basically wondering if atmosheric conditions somehow have an influence on this in anyway. I would have had to leave this saws set-up untouched to repeat this same test.
SawTroll
Information Collector
When did I say that .325RS cut rougher than 3/8"RS?timberwolf said:
If you think of Glens' comment related to RS beeing grabby in hickory wood, that was about new vs. used RS, and not about .325 vs. 3/8".
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