timberwolf
Addicted to ArboristSite
Right, I mixed it up, sorry bout that troll.
RS is graby chain if you compair it to semi chisel or safety chain, no doubt.
RS is graby chain if you compair it to semi chisel or safety chain, no doubt.
Let`s talk aggressive chains.
- Thread starter 4pwr
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chains.work
Race chain is for racing and you don't use it for work all day. It's not for the homeowner or 8 hous a day working. Apples to oranges comparision. Aggressive work chain depends on what wood your in and is the wood clean or dirty, not what can this chain do in 3 seconds or less. Your going to be in the wood for the day and is the vibration going to touch off my tennis elbow. There is another aspect to it also how well can you handle a saw? What is your cutting technique like? Are you wearing your PPE? To flat out say it's not good chain because you don't see them making race chains out of it leaves a lot of folks in the dark about chains/saws and what they are designed to do and what can make the chains/saws more aggressive. How many cords of wood do you get out of your race chain? Would you use it on your trimming saws? A good platform for race chain does not translate to good aggressive work chain if you don't ask can my sholder,elbow,wrist and fingers take the vibration 8-12 hours a day. Changing the cutter angle from 25* to 30* or 35*-45* does one thing and lowering the raker from 15 thou to 30-50 thou does another. Same with chisel chain if it's square filed or round filed. Other things to think about, do you want round house, semi skip or full skip. Would an 8pin sprocket/rim or spur/ inboard or out board make a difference or is the 7pin good enough. Making the saw/chain more aggressive for cutting firewood/work has more factors than is the chain a good candidate/platform for racing chain. If it weren't for all the different combinations there would not be any banter here on how to/what is the best. Just my opinion
Try different chains and when you find the one you like get more of it. Learn to file and keep it sharp.
Marky Mark said:
Race chain is for racing and you don't use it for work all day. It's not for the homeowner or 8 hous a day working. Apples to oranges comparision. Aggressive work chain depends on what wood your in and is the wood clean or dirty, not what can this chain do in 3 seconds or less. Your going to be in the wood for the day and is the vibration going to touch off my tennis elbow. There is another aspect to it also how well can you handle a saw? What is your cutting technique like? Are you wearing your PPE? To flat out say it's not good chain because you don't see them making race chains out of it leaves a lot of folks in the dark about chains/saws and what they are designed to do and what can make the chains/saws more aggressive. How many cords of wood do you get out of your race chain? Would you use it on your trimming saws? A good platform for race chain does not translate to good aggressive work chain if you don't ask can my sholder,elbow,wrist and fingers take the vibration 8-12 hours a day. Changing the cutter angle from 25* to 30* or 35*-45* does one thing and lowering the raker from 15 thou to 30-50 thou does another. Same with chisel chain if it's square filed or round filed. Other things to think about, do you want round house, semi skip or full skip. Would an 8pin sprocket/rim or spur/ inboard or out board make a difference or is the 7pin good enough. Making the saw/chain more aggressive for cutting firewood/work has more factors than is the chain a good candidate/platform for racing chain. If it weren't for all the different combinations there would not be any banter here on how to/what is the best. Just my opinion
Try different chains and when you find the one you like get more of it. Learn to file and keep it sharp.
timberwolf
Addicted to ArboristSite
Respectfuly your off Geoforce , Race chains run smooth in the cut. If it does not it won't cut fast. I have used some modified chains to cut wood, it works just fine as long as you don't pinch the chain in the cuts.
Many of the details that go into a race chain help a work chain just as much. Granted angles differ, so a race chains won't stand up to sand ect.
All teath same angle
All teeth same length
All rakers same height
All cutters sharp
Symetrical one side to the other
Gullets cleaned
Light Stoning helps race or not
Square filed/ground
Not talking about shortening teeth thining cutters or drastic chasis modification, agreed that is not for work chains.
Are you saying just taking more off the rakers makes an agressive work chain?
, Race chains run smooth in the cut. If it does not it won't cut fast. I have used some modified chains to cut wood, it works just fine as long as you don't pinch the chain in the cuts.Many of the details that go into a race chain help a work chain just as much. Granted angles differ, so a race chains won't stand up to sand ect.
All teath same angle
All teeth same length
All rakers same height
All cutters sharp
Symetrical one side to the other
Gullets cleaned
Light Stoning helps race or not
Square filed/ground
Not talking about shortening teeth thining cutters or drastic chasis modification, agreed that is not for work chains.
Are you saying just taking more off the rakers makes an agressive work chain?
rakers
No, just lowering rakers makes the chain grab more than the saw can handle in the hands of a homeowner/part time user pushing with all his weight on his homeowner/pro saw. It's just that there are a lot of questions to ask before this guy jumps in and works the chain over or makes a move to a more to a more aggressive chain. Granted he will use a lot of the techniques used to make race chains work. When he asks are chains really dangerous and Marky responds about race chains a whole lot of territory got skipped over. Number one, all the chains are dangerous, they all bite if the saw is mishandled. I need only think back to Roger and picture this, I sharpen his chain and hand him the saw back. He lays into the yew he was cutting and the saw goes through it like a laser and into the ground 1/2 the length of the bar. Roger is laying flat on his back as he went a$$ over tincups burying the saw in the ground. Then there was Jimmy, who comes back to tell me his saw never cut this good when it was new. I see by the reflextion of sunlight in the fresh rip into the steeltoe of his boot, he cut through the wood and into the boot. These guys need to ask themselves, "Do I really need more aggressive or does my technique need work." Before they ask are the low vibe/low kickback safety chains not for me. They want to jump right into it before they ask themselves, "Am I experienced enough to work with aggressive chains/saws?" Ego can get the inexperienced sliced, diced and dead with a fast, aggressive chain on a good saw. A while back I hand Bob my modded Dolmar 7900, full chisel, lightly touched chain and he leans into a pine with it "just to give it a try notching the tree". The saw goes clean through the tree with the first cut. No notch here! I wish I had a picture of his face because he looked like he $hit his pants. He didn't know which way to run. These are real guys and they all said they wanted aggressive and I gave them aggressive. If you have time with the saws a bit more aggressive is a good thing but a jump strait to race chains is not. I'm not saying this guy isn't ready for a more aggressive chain. He does need to ask himself is he ready for it. Does he know how to hand file? Does he touch up the chain he uses now and it's just not enough to keep him happy? Does the saw have the power to run it? Is his hospitalization paid up? It's raining today so I have time to blather on.
No, just lowering rakers makes the chain grab more than the saw can handle in the hands of a homeowner/part time user pushing with all his weight on his homeowner/pro saw. It's just that there are a lot of questions to ask before this guy jumps in and works the chain over or makes a move to a more to a more aggressive chain. Granted he will use a lot of the techniques used to make race chains work. When he asks are chains really dangerous and Marky responds about race chains a whole lot of territory got skipped over. Number one, all the chains are dangerous, they all bite if the saw is mishandled. I need only think back to Roger and picture this, I sharpen his chain and hand him the saw back. He lays into the yew he was cutting and the saw goes through it like a laser and into the ground 1/2 the length of the bar. Roger is laying flat on his back as he went a$$ over tincups burying the saw in the ground. Then there was Jimmy, who comes back to tell me his saw never cut this good when it was new. I see by the reflextion of sunlight in the fresh rip into the steeltoe of his boot, he cut through the wood and into the boot. These guys need to ask themselves, "Do I really need more aggressive or does my technique need work." Before they ask are the low vibe/low kickback safety chains not for me. They want to jump right into it before they ask themselves, "Am I experienced enough to work with aggressive chains/saws?" Ego can get the inexperienced sliced, diced and dead with a fast, aggressive chain on a good saw. A while back I hand Bob my modded Dolmar 7900, full chisel, lightly touched chain and he leans into a pine with it "just to give it a try notching the tree". The saw goes clean through the tree with the first cut. No notch here! I wish I had a picture of his face because he looked like he $hit his pants. He didn't know which way to run. These are real guys and they all said they wanted aggressive and I gave them aggressive. If you have time with the saws a bit more aggressive is a good thing but a jump strait to race chains is not. I'm not saying this guy isn't ready for a more aggressive chain. He does need to ask himself is he ready for it. Does he know how to hand file? Does he touch up the chain he uses now and it's just not enough to keep him happy? Does the saw have the power to run it? Is his hospitalization paid up? It's raining today so I have time to blather on.
chainsawworld
ArboristSite Guru
i run 50 guage on all my saws. i just ran a competition with my 026 with a 16" bar of .325 square(chisel)filed and 8 tooth rim. the saw was power tuned and ran outstanding. took first in its class by a bunch. i did increase the angle of the top plate,side plate and chisel angles. brought the rakes down and had no chatter in the knots. marty
SawTroll
Information Collector
Hello Lobo!Lobo said:
Glad we agree on the priciples here, but I find the results quoted above a bit odd - as I thought it would have been the other way around.......Obviously there are some variables that is difficult to predict.
SawTroll
Information Collector
I know we have talked about this before, and I agree with you!Lobo said:
Have you found suitable NK bar & chains for your 026?
SawTroll said:
Yes Bailey's carries them a plenty, however I still have plenty of regular chain to use up.
Stopped by the husky dealer here to see if he carried it or could order from Oregon, unfortunately he does not know his naval from his a.h. and had no idea what we were talking about and as it got complicated for him he lost interest and so did we. He best stick to lawn-mowers.
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SawTroll
Information Collector
Lobo, the part numbers of the Oregon bar & chains in question is listed on the "Selector Guide" on Oregons US web-site (not the Canadian one), so it should be easy to order the right items even though the dealer is ignorant.
In 16" the numbers are 160MPGD025 (Microlite Pro bar) and 95VP 067....
I think the 95VP chains will be a bit smoother to cut with compared to Baily's NK chains, as they have "low-wib" chassis.
In 16" the numbers are 160MPGD025 (Microlite Pro bar) and 95VP 067....
I think the 95VP chains will be a bit smoother to cut with compared to Baily's NK chains, as they have "low-wib" chassis.
Wow,good answers. I just wanted to know how aggresive I could go without being dangerous. I don`t consider myself an above average chainsaw guy. I don`t want to put the bar in the ground or thru my shoe. I think I`ll be a Joe Safety on this one, use what is recomended and keep it clean and sharp. Thank`s guys.
tony marks
Addicted to ArboristSite
imo the saws come with probably the best chain for that saw. individual skill mite be better able to use different chain. but for the most part the makers hit the best combination. imho
example the 95vp 0n the mid range huskys. altho with stihl i always change to either either 95 vp or rs rs chain.stihl i guess is afraid, the homeowner will hurt himself. and theres a good chance they are right.it surprises me that there arnt more homeowner accidents. altho theres are plenty ,im sure.
example the 95vp 0n the mid range huskys. altho with stihl i always change to either either 95 vp or rs rs chain.stihl i guess is afraid, the homeowner will hurt himself. and theres a good chance they are right.it surprises me that there arnt more homeowner accidents. altho theres are plenty ,im sure.
