Very valid & correct points Jethro , well stated brother !
List of Pro Saw Models - References
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I'd love to include a few Poulan saws in a Poulan table on my "pro saws" list if I could find verifiable information about any of them. I know the ACRES site has a bit, but ...not sure all the features.
"Chainsaw"He can do it Bob ! lol.
In my signature
Well, the pro saws list is growing a bit. I added a few, removed a few. Thanks for the help and insight into manufacturing and design features present in good saws.
Closed transfer ports...metal housings to support bearings, etc.
What about piston connecting rods? I know in cars and trucks there is a debate about sintered metal rods, forged rods, cast or machined maybe? Any differences there to look out for?
Do all good saws have plating in the bores?
Do most crappy saws have plating in the cylinder bores?
Tillotson Carbs vs Walbro vs Other?
No objections to the saw list lately?
No additions?
(Pro Saw List link in my signature)
Closed transfer ports...metal housings to support bearings, etc.
What about piston connecting rods? I know in cars and trucks there is a debate about sintered metal rods, forged rods, cast or machined maybe? Any differences there to look out for?
Do all good saws have plating in the bores?
Do most crappy saws have plating in the cylinder bores?
Tillotson Carbs vs Walbro vs Other?
No objections to the saw list lately?
No additions?
(Pro Saw List link in my signature)
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So just who is meant to be compiling this "list"?
Update : Husquarna 346 xp had two saws Nate . The original model OE (original edition) was a smaller bore 45 or 48 mm bore the 2nd Edition was NE ( new edition) was a 50 mm bore true 50 c.c. Class saw . Also the 576 xp is still not listed . Within the Stihl line up the original MS260 , MS360 & MS600 are missing . I have not had time to review the Shindawia or Jonsered list yet . Although the Shin 488 was a very capable 50 c.c. Class saw , Johnsered has pretty well a carbon copy of every Xp also in their line up . Your work is paying dividends , looks good . As for rod or piston or even cylinder wall composition Nikosil & carbon rings vs chrome plated rings or bores , although better really came into play within new technology . They all were current during their era within professional grade saws . Same with carburators , Tillotson , Keihien & Walbro all manufactured quality carb versions on various Pro grade saws over the last 70+ yrs . Anyhow , just my observations from my personal experience , not etched in stone brother !
JKendrick87
ArboristSite Operative
I believe the Echo 361-p is a pro saw as well.
361 Looks like a clamshell saw to me. I don't know much about it. Maybe others will chime in.
I am compiling the list, but I welcome any help I can get from those more knowledgeable than I.
Just got around to updating the saw site Stihl list for MS360 & MS600 as suggested by @North by Northwest
The Echo 7310 is by their literature bragging; 'Our first professional saw' in their lineup.
Was never really competition between Nikasil or chrome plated cylinders. It was a question of cost per unit by their subcontractors making the cylinders. Both were good cylinder plates to own/run. When ported direct drive saws came out, the two processes had a lot to be desired as far as quality from saw to saw. That's why replacement pistons from the factory could be at least three different sizes; 'A', 'B', 'C' etc. Because the boring was that inconsistent, yes. Once they had enough yrs at it, replacement pistons all became the same size. Then came the bean counters and whatever it is they do with new saws today.
Kevin
Was never really competition between Nikasil or chrome plated cylinders. It was a question of cost per unit by their subcontractors making the cylinders. Both were good cylinder plates to own/run. When ported direct drive saws came out, the two processes had a lot to be desired as far as quality from saw to saw. That's why replacement pistons from the factory could be at least three different sizes; 'A', 'B', 'C' etc. Because the boring was that inconsistent, yes. Once they had enough yrs at it, replacement pistons all became the same size. Then came the bean counters and whatever it is they do with new saws today.
Kevin
Nice history to know.
Been reading this thread trough. From engineering point of view the difference between pro and homeowner saws is in my opinion heat dissipation. I guess a logger uses a lot more gas per hour than homeowner, even with same HP range saws, burning gas creates heat which you have to get rid of. Eventually crankcase temperature will rise to certain level which saw must be able to handle.
Being clamshell or split case has very little to do in that IMO, it is materials thermal conductivity which has big role.
I would guess that clamshell which has its lower part made of plastic does not use saw ”frame” for heat dissipation.
On the contrary same structure but lower part made of magnesium or whatever the situation is totally different.
So if I had to draw a line between a pro and homeowner saws it would material used which makes the difference.
Hopefully readers get my point. English is not my first language and Finnish - well, is a bit different.
Being clamshell or split case has very little to do in that IMO, it is materials thermal conductivity which has big role.
I would guess that clamshell which has its lower part made of plastic does not use saw ”frame” for heat dissipation.
On the contrary same structure but lower part made of magnesium or whatever the situation is totally different.
So if I had to draw a line between a pro and homeowner saws it would material used which makes the difference.
Hopefully readers get my point. English is not my first language and Finnish - well, is a bit different.
Good point. In general, the metal parts will heat up, and be unable to dissipate the heat through the more insulative plastic.
I am not sure the full ramifications.
One other point to consider with pro saws is that they are designed to be serviced and kept, not thrown away.
Many low-end gas saws I consider disposable because the labor and parts costs to repair them make it impractical to fix them.
Many don't consider this in the overall cost of a saw.
I am not sure the full ramifications.
One other point to consider with pro saws is that they are designed to be serviced and kept, not thrown away.
Many low-end gas saws I consider disposable because the labor and parts costs to repair them make it impractical to fix them.
Many don't consider this in the overall cost of a saw.
Most saws pro or not are hardly worth rebuilding, especially if you need to split the case. It's a shite show anyway you look at it.
Well, here price of 592xp is 1650€ EURO (1727$). Hsl quotes 300$ for oem cylinder kit. Bearings and seals etc. max 100$.
Easiest 1000$ ever for half a days work.
Aquired knowhow has for sure certain price but generally speaking these chainsaws are not rocket science.
Easiest 1000$ ever for half a days work.
Aquired knowhow has for sure certain price but generally speaking these chainsaws are not rocket science.
Few years ago I did a few 562xp rebuilds. 2 from failed bearings, one was just low on compression. The first one I did, I got bearing (and ended up buying the tool kit for splitting the case and removal and install of the bearings, can't use a normal case splitter on them.) The bearings were over $100.00, actually the pto side was $98.00 by itself. Can't remember what the tools cost, wasn't cheap, but nessisary for splitting the case. The bearings I could have gotten out by other means, but it was included in the kit. Till I got a gasket kit and new top end, replaced the fuel lines and few other knick knacks, I was over $300 into a $680.00 saw without any labor. The second one I found out it was just cheaper to replace the case with a new oem. They were cheaper then just seals bearings and replacing the stuffer. Still needed a new top end as it had bearing failure and just wreacked everything internally. The last one got bearings as power for the course and new piston and ring. It wasn't Nearly worth rebuilding either. I do this as a side gig, so I don't charge much for labor. Still too much for a basic rebuild.
Did an 056 for my cousin last year, started out as a pile of parts in a box. Till a good ignition module was found, piston, gaskets, bearings, seals, fuel lines, intake boot and carb kit add in a few hours of labor I was still $600 deep into it. Just not worth it of it isn't in need of a basic top end refresh.
Did an 056 for my cousin last year, started out as a pile of parts in a box. Till a good ignition module was found, piston, gaskets, bearings, seals, fuel lines, intake boot and carb kit add in a few hours of labor I was still $600 deep into it. Just not worth it of it isn't in need of a basic top end refresh.
Yes, I guess that is a good point. Almost any saw can be disposable depending upon what is wrong.
