Long Bar Photos

[z4lunch]

Steve here... Heres a pic of my as new 090av for u newbees
It is an 090av made around 1984. Has a few tanks thru her. The bar is a 41" Duromatic with a factory Stihl helper handle and guard, which are obsolete parts now

 

[rbtree]

RB I was looking at that picture of the stump on that moster pine. Was there more of a hinge when it actually fell? I'm not questioning your abilities, I'm just curious. My largest bar is a 24" on my Ms440. The largest tree I ever cut was a little over 30".

When using a long bar like that do you,"sweep" through the cut? I was always curious about the," push and pull forces" on the operator when running a bar that long. Do you always have the Dogs set when felling and running a beast like that? Do the chips ever jam the bar in the knurf or does the saw have enough power to blast right through. That's one HUGE Tree you cut.

Looks like i did cut off a bit too much hinge wood, doesn't it. That was a couple years ago. Anyhow, Jim was tugging on it with his boom...it was only gonna fall one way. A good technique to use when felling spars is to bore the center wood out, as you don't need full hinge width. This allows a wider hinge on either side, which is easier to set up.

Yes on dog setting, it's better to pull than to push, and with that hopped up saw, it can handle a lot of force..well, with the shorter bars anyhow!....and re sweeping the cut, sure. but it all depends on the size of the cut relative to the bar length as well. Also, with that much bar length, it is easy to bind the bar in the cut,( or bog it down to where the chain sticks) so you have to be gentle and try to keep the rpm's up..The 3120 has an oiler position that increases the auto oil flow, and a manual override. But I'm a rookie with long bars, having only used it a few times. As well, because it flexes a lot, you have to be careful in order to not throw the chain. Gentle movements when it's out of the cut, and getting the chain spinning prior to entering the wood are good things to do. Starting cuts with a different saw is a good idea, then you can slot the long bar in and then rev it up.

 

[Lakeside53]

Steve here... Heres a pic of my as new 090av for u newbees
It is an 090av made around 1984. Has a few tanks thru her. The bar is a 41" Duromatic with a factory Stihl helper handle and guard, which are obsolete parts now

Sweet! but you do need a bunch of saw dust on the floor to make it look authentic

 

[Lakeside53]

Sorry... I was slow composing my post. I was referring to the Alpina, not the Stihls.

The sentiments on sound stand though. They just have something newer saws don't.

I agree... Unfortunately on the big older saws (except the big collectible Stihls and a few others) the bar an chain is worth a lot more than the saw! Most of them can be bought for $25-$50 and often that includes a bar!

Would I crank up my 775G or Mac 250 or ,... or....., to cut big wood when I have an 066 or 088. Ha! dream on

 

[sawn_penn]

Would I crank up my 775G or Mac 250 or ,... or....., to cut big wood when I have an 066 or 088. Ha! dream on

Every now and then I crank over the 750 and I am supprised at how good it sounds and feels. They I go and cut with something else.

 

[PWB]

No sorry mate, I don't have a brother. I always wanted one but now, with my dad dead at 80 and my mum going strong but 76 years old I think I'll give up wishing.

How well did you know your dad? If he was anything like my dad, you MIGHT have a brother (or several!)