McCulloch Chain Saws

[rwoods]

Oh, my misunderstanding.

Is the check valve still there? If so, may be locked down by the manual oiler so it can't move.

That will be hard to check. It sucks to take the tank back off to check it.

Not what I wanted to hear but what I was expecting. So much for running it Saturday morning. It'll be Sunday afternoon before I'll have time to take it apart.
Thanks, Ron

 

[joeymt33]

I guess you could try running some thin oil or sea foam or something similar to try a flush out before you remove the tank.

 

[joeymt33]

You could also try removing the oil tank cover and twisting the oil line to see if that frees up the check valve. That's assuming that it's stuck.

 

[homelitejim]

So.....back to the bar with the helper handle.......what's joey got cookin'?

 

[heimannm]

The most common 10 Series oiler problem I have run into is the check valve disc under the manual oiler pump; only a problem when the oil pickup line is changed and the flange on the new pick up tube is thicker than the original in which case you need a thicker gasket to provide the check valve disc room to move.



You can check the automatic oiler (it also has a built in check valve) when you have it off by "pumping" it manually and seeing if oil passed through the two small ports; in the green and out the red. I have been using a can of "Remoil" to put a few drops down the "in" pipe and pumping it to insure the oil comes up the "out" pipe.





You can also test the check valve in the automatic oiler with a pressure test.





Of course the problem is you now have the saw fully assembled and filled with oil, you have to take the tank off to get to the manual oil pump so your nice clean project will now be covered in oily fingerprints.

Mark

 

[rwoods]

Thanks, guys. The only "wisdom" I can share is to be careful what you use to flush the oiler. My last experience ruined the little o-ring that holds the disk in place. I may run a weedeater line up the intake and see if that jars the disc loose.

As to a clean saw and work area, I took care of that little problem last night. TSC bar oil might not seem as tacky as Stihl's oil, but let me tell you it is plenty tacky when you are trying to wipe it up

 

[rwoods]

Well, I see that the software upgrade cleaned out half my post so here's the rest of it:

For those interested in the three screw attachment of the auto oiler, you can see in Mark's next to last picture that the back holes of the oiler are threaded.

Ron

 

[fossil]

I checked over the PM 700 I got last weekend. I don't think it needs anything other than a new chain. Dumped the fuel out, added new, reset the carb needles, and it fired right up. This saw is really snappy.
I don't think anything else I have has that kind of throrrle response.
Going to try it in wood tomorrow.

 

[rwoods]

I'M BACK!!!

I took the 800 apart and put it back together still no oil - manual or auto. The oil pickup line is clear the little disk valve slides up into the pump housing (it doesn't ride in the gasket as Mark's pictures show but it has lots of up and down room in the pump housing). I can pressurize the pickup line and no oil comes out. I wish I understood better how these things work. I could not find an opening in the crank housing that would allow me to run a wire through it to or from the "well". Further schooling and suggestions needed. Thanks, Ron

 

[joeymt33]

Try another auto oiler?? From a saw that you know works.

 

[rwoods]

Why would the manual not work? I have had several auto oilers go out on me but I have always been able to use the manual to keep on cutting. Ron

 

[rwoods]

Does the manual pump push oil through the auto pump? Ron

 

[joeymt33]

Does the manual pump push oil through the auto pump? Ron

I "think" so. Maybe MarkH will enlighten us.

 

[fechtichmac]

I "think" so. Maybe MarkH will enlighten us.

The Manual oiler pumps the oil trough the Auto oiler.If there is any air leak from oil pickup to Manual oiler the Auto oiler is not able to build up the vacuum wich is necessary.

E.

 

[rwoods]

The Manual oiler pumps the oil trough the Auto oiler.If there is any air leak from oil pickup to Manual oiler the Auto oiler is not able to build up the vacuum wich is necessary.

E.

Thanks. I'll look for an air leak. But I can pressurize the pickup line from the bottom so I am thinking that there is an obstruction in the oil path, possibly in the auto oiler. Ron

 

[cpr]

Anyone know if Discount Marine or another source has any 10-10 fuel tank gaskets left or am I going to have to make one?

 

[fechtichmac]

Thanks. I'll look for an air leak. But I can pressurize the pickup line from the bottom so I am thinking that there is an obstruction in the oil path, possibly in the auto oiler. Ron

The autooiler cylinder often changes his Position in the plastic Body since its only pressed in and easyly to remove. So the passages dont flush correctly.The correct distance from the top of the oiler to the metal cylinder should be found in the Workshop Manual I think.

E.

 

[rwoods]

Thanks, E. I think all of mine are one piece plastic. But I can check. I did figure out the oil path. As you probably already know, the oil comes up the pick-up line to the disk check valve where it primes the manual oiler and goes to the auto oiler intake (the manual oiler when pump closes the disc valve and send a charge of oil through the auto inlet and back out the auto outlet into the crank case which has three connected drill holes - one straight down to the oiler outlet, one straight across the case and one angled up from the well. I assume the auto check valve is to direct the auto oil to the outlet instead of back into the inlet. I don't know if it is in the path of the manual oil but I assume it is. Now what is my most likely cause of the problem given I can pressurize the oil pickup tube, and the disc valve has plenty of room to move in the manual housing. I would guess that the auto check valve is stuck We'll see. Ron

 

[machinisttx]

I seem to be running across a lot of 610's lately. I picked one up a few days ago that runs great, but isn't oiling. It doesn't even oil with the manual oiler. Is the manual oiler tied into the auto pump on these, or are they separate as on the 10 series? I'm going to pull the auto pump and see if the piston is stuck, anything else to look for?

 

[fechtichmac]

Thanks, E. I think all of mine are one piece plastic. But I can check. I did figure out the oil path. As you probably already know, the oil comes up the pick-up line to the disk check valve where it primes the manual oiler and goes to the auto oiler intake (the manual oiler when pump closes the disc valve and send a charge of oil through the auto inlet and back out the auto outlet into the crank case which has three connected drill holes - one straight down to the oiler outlet, one straight across the case and one angled up from the well. I assume the auto check valve is to direct the auto oil to the outlet instead of back into the inlet. I don't know if it is in the path of the manual oil but I assume it is. Now what is my most likely cause of the problem given I can pressurize the oil pickup tube, and the disc valve has plenty of room to move in the manual housing. I would guess that the auto check valve is stuck We'll see. Ron

The oil path is the sameil pckup-manual oiler with disk checkvalve-auto oiler with ball +spring valve--sawbar.If the Auto check valve is stuck or the Auto Piston stucks in the lower Position you cant get no oil to the bar with the Manual oiler

E.