McCulloch Chain Saws

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:cry:PM800 in the box is back in the box :cry:

While running the 800 a little trying to free the oiler up, it abruptly quit a few times. I foolishly restarted it each time, thinking it is was because it was barely even warm. But then the effort to restart changed so instead of restarting I took the muffler off (muffler was cool enough to work with my bare hands). The lube coating was worn and streaked on the piston skirt and there appeared to be a tad of transfer on the flywheel side of the cylinder. Maybe that was some transfer that I didn't see when rebuilding. Or maybe the "A" cylinder was on the tight end of the scale and my "A" piston together with the lube coating put the piston diameter over the proper tolerances. I hope I didn't ruin anything. Except the immediate starting with the trigger lock and a couple of taps of the trigger to check acceleration, it was never ran past a fast idle.

It is a good thing the oiler didn't work as I probably would have burned the 800 up good in the wood.

Except for the carb, I can now honestly say that I can completely assemble and disassemble a PM800 in my mind without missing a part. Not sure if it beats counting sheep, but it does put me to sleep. Thanking about the oiler kept me awake last night, however.

Thanks for all the help and encouragement. This saw will cut again just not any weekend soon. :chop:

Ron
 
The 10 Series manual and automatic oilers use the same circuit. The manual pump has one check valve (the disc), and the automatic oil pump provided the second check valve (the little ball shown above). The manual pump moves the oil up the pick up line and over to the base of the automatic pump, through the automatic pump then out to the bar. If you tried to pressurize the pick up line and nothing passes through the system you have a blockage somewhere (brilliant, yes?). Did you try this with the bar off so you could make sure the problem is not the oil hole alignment in the bar?

You may need to take it one step at a time, make sure the pick up line is clear, insure that the disc can move freely in the port and seals against the flange of the pick up tube, make sure automatic pump is working (check valve) as I noted above, while you have the automatic pump off try to blow through the exit port from the automatic pump and make sure that passage to the bar is clear.

The oil moves up the pick up tube to the manual pump (red line), through the manual pump and out of port circled in red, through the automatic pump, then passes out the port circled in green to the bar.

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Mark
 
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One of the drawbacks of the three screw hold-down is you have to remove the gas tank to remove the auto oiler. That is why I haven't removed the auto oiler, yet. I can and did remove the manual oiler without completely removing the gas tank. When I tear the saw down to check out the carnage, I'll certainly check the auto oiler as I am fairly certain the problem is there. In anticipation of the future is there a good means of removing aluminum transfer without using acid? I made a passable cylinder into a scrap cylinder recently when the acid passed under the plating. I don't want to do that again. Honing??? I'm hoping I can salvage the piston and if necessary massage it down to the right size.

Mark, the bar was removed and nothing gets to the crankcase oil slot ("the well" as Joey calls it.)

Ron
 
Charles - the 10 Series fuel tank gaskets are getting hard to find at a reasonable price. I think someone was selling them on e-bay for $35 each but I decided to pass on those.

machinisttx - The manual and automatic pumps are an "all in one" unit under the AF cover. Only takes a couple of screws (or is it 4) to remove the pump, take it apart and clean it all out. Biggest problems I have had with the 600's is leaking bar oil through the diaphragm or gaskets making the saw a real smoker.

The only time I ever had one that didn't oil, there was some snot completely blocking the pick up line. I blew it out into the tank and problem solved.

Mark
 
Mark-- Thanks for the info. I might get time to pull and clean it tomorrow. The leakage through the diaphragm/gaskets might explain why my other 610 smokes so much(oils like the exxon valdez though :laugh:).

I've come across a couple of the later flat air filter style 10-10's lately, but haven't had time to fool with them. One of them I am almost certain would need rings at a minimum as there is almost no resistance at all when pulling the starter(it is engaging).
 
I brought this saw home today. It's a NOS 82cc. The guy had several NOS mccullochs but I only bought this one. The filter cover says its a PM8200 but the features tell a different story. He says he bought it new locally just like the other two. I've inspected the saw very closely and I can confidently say that it is NOS. This is a later model Mac when they used stickers instead of metal tags. The sticker is missing but the adhesive is still there where the sticker is so I know it's a late model. It looks like a saw built from whatever mcculloch had left before they sold out.

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I've inspected all the fasteners closely and I can see the wear marks where the fasteners were installed but never removed. I shined a light down the carb and the piston is perfect like it just came out of the box. There is no oil residue in the oil tank, no fuel smell in the fuel tank. It has a nice white fuel filter. It has unused Mac chain. New bar. The white paper towel used to wipe the muffler screen was still white after wiping it.
 
The guy threw in a NOS full wrap that was purchased at the same time as the saw. Also purchased with the saw was a new air filter and replacement filter cover. He included the IPL and owners manual and both have no stains or finger prints but look to have true age on them. Both manuals have rusted staples binding them together.

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This so called PM8200 has features like a DE80

A PM8200 is supposed to be gray and yellow. This one is black and yellow.

The PM8200 didn't have the DSP, this one does.

This saw has throttle linkage like a DE80

This saw has a direct carb mount like a DE80

It is not like a DE80 if you judge it by color

The DE80 didn't come with the half wrap typically. This saw did and the PM8200 seemed to always come with the half wrap.

It's definitely not a Franken saw because I can tell it's never been apart. It looks to be a factory Franken saw.

It's not a DE80 with a PM8200 cover because the tank would be black for a DE80 and the tank on this saw has sticker residue from the serial tag so that tells me it a later model.

Please chime in if anyone knows other saws like this.
 
After talking to him, it seems that the news that mcculloch was closing the doors hurt him bad enough to go buy these and a lot of NOS parts. He also had a lot of new bars and chains and other stuff. I was in a hurry to get back so I didn't get a full inventory. BTW, he had never heard of AS so he's not a member.
 
This same guy has a decent collection of two man saws, old homies, other macs, etc. He just sold two NOS PM700's !!! He has a nice SP105 I saw too.
 

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