McCulloch Chain Saws

Wesspur
Rugged made
Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
DSC03834.JPG DSC03835.JPG DSC03836.JPG

Not nearly as exciting as a PM800, here is 10-10 #2 going together. New rings in this one as the compression was down to 130 PSI. Amazing that after all the years and use, the piston to cylinder clearance was only 0.001 to 0.0015" over new.

I may have to perform some additional tank cleaning to prepare the tank for this one since I used the best tank of the three for the first one I put together.

Interesting note on #1, I was rolling the chain over by hand last night and thought something did not feel right, removed the clutch cover, clutch, and drum and took a close look at the chain engaging the sprocket (Auto Mac/Speed Mac style with the rim sprocket welded to the drum) and noticed the drivers did not quite fit properly. Tried a loop of McCulloch .354 chain and a perfect fit. I have a number of loops of the .354 McBastard chain as well as rolls in .050 and .058, rim sprockets plus a few more Auto Mac drums.

Mark
 
rwoods said:
I've been slowly plugging away at my last PM800 build. I almost finished the saw tonight but I have a little more work to do on the bar. It is the only "A" cylinder I have. Ceramic coated piston, a little smoothing of the ports, .404 7 pin sprocket, 25" Stihl bar, DSP valve, three screw oiler and the roller recoil are the only tricks. I opted for the stock muffler as I think the saw is a little stronger than when using the old reed muffler. I wish I had a few more of the roller recoils this is my last one. I might change my mind when I find out why MAC added the lip to the newer style - I am guessing that it was to protect the sawdust guard but I don't know and I haven't broken one yet.

This saw is one that I bought in a box. A few more missing parts that I thought so I have put a real dent in my inventory. Also it appears to have had a new carb installed before its meltdown. It has a small plastic elbow as the fuel inlet. Not only did the old fuel line have a screw driver hole in it, it was also much too big to seal around the inlet - I assume that this is what caused the saw to fail. I cut the bell off the new line so that it would seal tight. Can the inlet be twisted without breaking it? Right now it kinks the line although I have shortened the line to about one half it's original length.

Ron

View attachment 319050 View attachment 319051 View attachment 319052 View attachment 319053
Click to expand...
Ron I suggest you go get a double barbed fitting from your local hardware store. Just put the fitting into the cut end of your fuel line, then run a short length of fuel line from the fitting to the carb nipple. Heck, you could go to a hobby shop and get a small in-line filter as used on gas powered large scale model airplanes.

595391d1372569992t-transmission-oil-cooler-line-fitting-double-barbed.jpg

hayq1078.jpg
 

Right or wrong I don't know but here it how I do it. I loosen the nut but leave it on and then I give it a little tap with a hammer. I've never had a problem. Flywheels ... well that is a different story. Ron
 
RCWS - For a very stubborn clutch a puller may be required, but most of the time a tap on the nut while prying up on the clutch will pop it free.

I put together another 10-10 last night from the three saws I got from Mark Hosky, latest is the one with the black bar. With new rings and a different carburetor, the second one runs very nicely. I may have to use this one to cut a little wood. The spark plug lead was routed inside the shroud and tucked in between a couple of the fins when I received it but I felt more comfortable with it outside the shroud. We had this discussion a while back as McCulloch changed their philosophy on the routing a few times over the years. I will either shorten that lead, or just change the coil for one with a shorter lead already. I found a much nicer fan housing in the part washer when I started looking for all the parts of the third saw at the end of the night, that one should make the trip across as well.

DSC03866.JPG DSC03867.JPG DSC03868.JPG DSC03869.JPG

Mark
 
There were no carburetor "kits" for the 3-25 saws. You can find some of the gaskets and diaphragms, but you will likely end up having to make one or two as well.

I do have a few of the diaphragms with the hook on each side if your 3-25 is one of the older ones, I probably have a few other gaskets as well. Look over your IPL and send me a PM with the items you are looking for.

And while we are on the subject, do any of these parts look interesting to you Eccentric? The part numbers for the diaphragm with the hook do not agree with the 4-30 / 47 part number in my IPL's but I am wondering if they will in fact fit. I am not sure where the one with the plate is supposed to be used.

DSC03833.JPG

DSC03832.JPG
Mark
 
HELP NEEDED INQUIRE WITHIN.

I finished modifying the Stihl bar tonight and I repositioned the carb elbow (gently pried it, metal tube and all, out of the carb with a screwdriver then repositioned it and tapped it back in tight). After many pulls, new plug and prime of the fuel line, the PM800 fired up and required just an adjustment of the idle screw to run. BUT the oiler doesn't work neither manual or auto. I've never had this problem before now. Did I leave something out? Or is something internal plugged? The screen is clean but I can feel no suction at the pickup.

Thanks, Ron
 
Ron, I recently had an oiler problem where the disc on the auto oiler was punched out in the middle. It looked good but I couldn't tell at first the the disc would slide on the shaft. This prevented the manual and auto oiler from working. I replaced only the disc/shaft assembly and it oils great.

I say this because I assume that you've checked oil route through the bar plate into the bar.
 
joeymt33 said:
Ron, I recently had an oiler problem where the disc on the auto oiler was punched out in the middle. It looked good but I couldn't tell at first the the disc would slide on the shaft. This prevented the manual and auto oiler from working. I replaced only the disc/shaft assembly and it oils great.
I say this because I assume that you've checked oil route through the bar plate into the bar.
Click to expand...

I have had the disk problem before but the manual oiler still worked.


joeymt33 said:
Also, have you used this saw? Has it been oiling properly?
Click to expand...

I have not checked the oil route but I have pumped away without a bar on it. What do I do to check the oil route - run a wire through it? Blow through it?

This is my 800 disassembled in a box saw; so it has never been run by me until tonight.

Ron
 
The oil should flow into the well, through the bar plate and into the bar. Make sure the bar plate doesn't block the oil hole in the bar. Also, make sure the oil hole is cut into the bar rail. You may have to modify the bar plate to not block the bars oil inlet
 

Similar threads

M
Want to Sell Vintage Collection Liquidation
Replies
2
Views
881
chilipeppermaniac
C
Big-Cigar
Hand sharpening off the saw
Replies
16
Views
751
pdqdl
pdqdl
R
McCulloch ProMac 700 Bar
Replies
8
Views
1K
Syncop8r
Syncop8r
D
60s era McCullochs, ball-park values ??
Replies
0
Views
459
Doug
D
C
Want to Buy McCulloch Super 250
Replies
9
Views
1K
Doug
D

Latest posts

Back
Top