McCulloch Chain Saws

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What's a good part number for the early 10-10 fuel line?

I see the difference between this old one and my much newer 10-10S. Carb. end is shorter on the old one.

64848 is the old number, 215708 is a later number for the same item for the cube carburetor models with the large felt fuel filter.

63935 was used on the earlier models with the flat back / bull frog carburetors, later saws used the same 64848 as the cube carburetor models. Be sure you have the spring inside (67944) to prevent the line from getting a kink and pinching off the fuel flow.

The "short end" may just be that one or more of the ribs have been cut or broken off.

FB/BF
DSCN4603.jpg

Cube carburetor
DSC00873.JPG

Alternative solution
208.jpg

There were some late, late model saws and conversion kits that had a small nipple on the carburetor, required the use of a different fuel line but I cannot find a reference to the part number anywhere.

Mark
 
Thanks Mark!

Picture #2 is exactly what I have. My best go would be the patch together picture #3. Unless the tank seam leaks, that is.

Personally I like the big 'tampon' filter as they seem less restrictive. Almost always on PL/SL Remingtons.

My first R.H. start 10-10.
 
Cut the molded end off and use a short chunk of 7/32" windshield wiper hose as a coupling. Inserted end of original fuel line with coat of 3M weatherstrip adheasive. After it dries I'll coat the joint with liquid tape. Spring screws in last.

When the tank seam leakes (and it likely will) I'll put a whole new line in. Got a Stens replacement on hand.
 
It is no trick to replace the fuel line without separating the tank halves. Just reach in the tank and grab the old line and pull it out. I use a bit of a wire tie (tie wrap) to reach through the hole and help guide the new line through the hole, pull it in until is seats and you are finished. Some NOS lines are a bit small in the hole and leak a little, a couple wraps of Teflon tape will solve that.

If you have to open the tank you will discover a cork gasket stuck in the bottom half of the tank. Those gaskets are very hard to find now days, you may find it necessary to put the tank back together with some type of sealer. On the SP and late model PM saws with the sealed tanks, I have had very good success using Red Kote in the tanks to seal up leaking seams. One quart may do 6 or 8 tanks. Make sure you get Red Kote and not Red Cote...

Mark
 
I took that one down in two pieces on two consecutive evenings so the ugly chunk remaining standing in the photo above came down the next day. The sycamore in the background is right across the street from my house and the home owner keeps saying he is planning to take it down, just doesn't know when. More photos tomorrow.

Mark
 
Cut the molded end off and use a short chunk of 7/32" windshield wiper hose as a coupling. Inserted end of original fuel line with coat of 3M weatherstrip adheasive. After it dries I'll coat the joint with liquid tape. Spring screws in last.

When the tank seam leakes (and it likely will) I'll put a whole new line in. Got a Stens replacement on hand.

Well the fuel line repair worked fine but the tank seam leaks as expected.

Let him sit. Maybe the cork will swell back up. Yeah,.....................................right.

More Bugga-Bugga...........................................
 
I took that one down in two pieces on two consecutive evenings so the ugly chunk remaining standing in the photo above came down the next day. The sycamore in the background is right across the street from my house and the home owner keeps saying he is planning to take it down, just doesn't know when. More photos tomorrow.

Mark

Was just razzin' ya.

Looks like a whole bunch of "little work" in that third picture. Out of curiosity, what did you use for all of the limbing?
 
Back to posts 23032-23034, most of the 600 Series mufflers were just pancakes with a small deflector on the muffler and another attached to the cylinder to route the exhaust gasses away from the saw.

I did see a muffler on e-bay this week advertised for the 600 Series with a stack, I don't recall ever seeing one set up that way myself.

Joey, I am not confusing it with the PM800 type mufflers, there is/was one or two of those on e-bay as well.

Post 23040 - The 200 is theoretically equal to the standard 250, just a different top cover. I saw a Service Bulletin as I was organizing stuff two weeks ago that stated after a certain date the 200 would only be sold in Canada, the 250 in the US but that the saws were the same.

Mark

Went and found the link

View attachment 338531

McCulloch 690 610 650 655 605 3.4 3.7 Timberbear Chainsaw Muffler W/Stack
I got a stack from ebay yesterday and with a little mod got it bolted on, better on the ears.
 
Mostly 7-10, SP81, probably a bit of PM800 as well.

Mark

Was wondering if you may have broken out the PM6A of a MM for the smaller stuff. Just curious.

And did you mention something recently about looking for a PM6? I saw one on CL in my area the other day but didn't follow up on it.
 
Needing 1 clutch pawl & spring for a 740.Whatever other model that also fits will be fine.

Any one who has one they can part with please send me PM with your price & postage.I'll reply with my street address & my PayPal address also.

Thanks.
 
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