astnmacgto
Carnac The Magnificent
It may not look like it, but there is a lot of dollars in that last picture.
And I'm digging the serving tray oil troughs for the leakers.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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And I'm digging the serving tray oil troughs for the leakers.
hseII
Addicted to ArboristSite
What would make you say that?
The Rotary KM-4 Dolly, the McCullough SP118 Dolly, or the Mac Twin?
astnmacgto
Carnac The Magnificent
I'm curious as to which is worth more, I've only seen one bp1 sell, haven't seen either of the others sell before
happysaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
There have been several of them on eBay in the last few months...
astnmacgto
Carnac The Magnificent
There are a couple bp's on there now, but they aren't selling
hseII
Addicted to ArboristSite
I know one "Mint" SP118 straight from Australia was like the gift that kept on costing.
[emoji8]
As for the KMS-4, Scott/Steve, along with Diamond Dallas Dave, have one, & are the ones I'd ask.
BP-1: those seem to be all over the place too.
Saws, like everything else, has ebb & flow.
Back home from the PNW GTG with the saws I took, some I picked up in Montana on the way out, and some I collected in Oregon and Wyoming on the way home.
Mrs. Heimann walked through the shop with all of these recent additions on display and didn't even blink.
While in Oregon, I got this 1-75 and NIB Mini Mac from Nate A.K.A Madhatte
At the GTG I was gifted this beautiful Double Eagle 50, needed a coil and a minor repair to the latch, I added the newer looking 16" bar.
This clean PM610 was in the group I picked up on Montana, I thought it needed a NOS bar to really set it off. It needed a few minor repairs but seems to be ready to go now.
Mark
Mrs. Heimann walked through the shop with all of these recent additions on display and didn't even blink.
While in Oregon, I got this 1-75 and NIB Mini Mac from Nate A.K.A Madhatte
At the GTG I was gifted this beautiful Double Eagle 50, needed a coil and a minor repair to the latch, I added the newer looking 16" bar.
This clean PM610 was in the group I picked up on Montana, I thought it needed a NOS bar to really set it off. It needed a few minor repairs but seems to be ready to go now.
Mark
On the way home Roger (3000FPS) in Wyoming gave me this nice 1-60. The starter needs some work but the saw is pretty clean overall.
I keep forgetting about this 47 that someone tore down, cleaned and painted, then lost interest. It was in the Montana collection from fwgsaws.
Mark
I keep forgetting about this 47 that someone tore down, cleaned and painted, then lost interest. It was in the Montana collection from fwgsaws.
Mark
1-86 with a broken gear case. If you want a challenge, I can put parts in a box for Baraboo.
Mark
Mark
Very nice Mark!
RandyMac
Stiff Member
The 1-60s remind me of a parts bin saw.
I put this in the minis but got no response so I am going to post it here.
Ok I have a McCulloch 140 giving me trouble. It will start and run fine like first thing in the morning. You can cut with it for almost a tank of fuel, shut it off for just 3-4 mins and it will start right back up. Shut it off and do something like stack wood for like 20-30 mins and when you try and start it you have to choke it and feather the choke for a while to keep it running until finally it will take off and run. Then after that you can shut it off and let it set for 3-4 mins and it will start right up and saw but if you let it set for 15-20 mins then you have to feather the choke for a while just to keep it running until it finally starts to run right. Any ideas on this? I have kitted the carb, new crank seals, new fuel lines. Saws great until you have to shut it down for a while and then it is a pain to get back running.
Brian
Ok I have a McCulloch 140 giving me trouble. It will start and run fine like first thing in the morning. You can cut with it for almost a tank of fuel, shut it off for just 3-4 mins and it will start right back up. Shut it off and do something like stack wood for like 20-30 mins and when you try and start it you have to choke it and feather the choke for a while to keep it running until finally it will take off and run. Then after that you can shut it off and let it set for 3-4 mins and it will start right up and saw but if you let it set for 15-20 mins then you have to feather the choke for a while just to keep it running until it finally starts to run right. Any ideas on this? I have kitted the carb, new crank seals, new fuel lines. Saws great until you have to shut it down for a while and then it is a pain to get back running.
Brian
Brian - My guess would be the carburetor is soaking up some heat and boiling the fuel out while it is setting. There are supposed to be some insulators on the screws holding the carburetor to the block.
Randy - in the mix above is a 450 block with a 1-70 style oil tank (no automatic oil pump) on the front and an SP125 fuel tank on top; the yellow tank on the floor in front of the 5-10E.
Mark
Randy - in the mix above is a 450 block with a 1-70 style oil tank (no automatic oil pump) on the front and an SP125 fuel tank on top; the yellow tank on the floor in front of the 5-10E.
Mark
Thanks Mark, I bet you are right. The washers and all are on the carb, I just wonder if maybe the fan is not cooling like it should or maybe the airflow is disrupted somewhere.
Still having problems out of this saw. I like the saw and want to use it. I wonder if may be the the fan is not pushing enough air to keep it cool? I put a new fuel line on it when I rebuilt the carb, it was not factory fuel line. Wonder if may be the fuel is boiling in the fuel line? Got be baffled as to what is causing this problem.
Some type of tank vacuum building up over that time period maybe? Pop the cap and see what happens.
Thanks Poge I thought about that. I have two parts saws and took an old fuel lid from one of them and drilled a hole on it and put that on it so I knew it was venting properly and it is still doing it. I just keep thinking that somehow it is that fuel line for some reason. I put it on new but it is not OEM but still should do the job. Mark felt that it could be the fuel in the carb boiling and I feel he could be right but I checked and I have everything back together according to the IPL. I took an air hose and blew everything out thinking it could have been just not flowing enough air to keep it cool and once it was shut off it boiling the carb but it is very clean. I thought maybe the flywheel could be dirty and not flowing enough air. It is clean. I am running out of ideas. If the fuel line I put on it was collapsing I would think I would see it while running. I don't see how I could have it routed wrong as their is not another way of routing it. You know one thing that comes to mind is I cut it a little long and I wonder if it is getting against the cylinder and causing it to boil the fuel. HUMMMM I will have to look at that.
Brian
Brian
It's helpful to build pressure in the fuel tank to help prevent boiling. There should be a check valve system for the fuel tank in the cap or elsewhere in the tank.
I wondered it you understood Mark when he said there were insulators on the carb bolts. They are a piece of plastic tube over the bolt threads hat goes from under the head of the bolt and through the carb.
It may be helpful to know that at atmospheric sea level, gasoline can boil anywhere from 95 deg F to 395 deg F. It seems that most fossil fuels have a wide range of temps at which they may begin to boil.
Quite often in engines / fuel tanks, it's not hot enough to burn you when it boils.
