McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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Jethro - I have seen several with the phenolic disc (ring-piston; 60263/86182) broken but never seen enough wear that they would not work. Seems reasonable that the disc would wear more than the pump body given the amount of material/surface area in contact. The same disc was used on the large frame saws as well if that helps in your search.
It is odd that the pump works manually but not on the saw, that could be a wear issue but I have never run into the same situation that I recall.
If you can't find a replacement disc at a reasonable cost I will send you a disc if you'd like, it might take a few days in the mail. I figure I can send the disc in a regular mail envelope, sending a pump takes more paperwork... Send a PM if you are interested.
Mark
It is odd that the pump works manually but not on the saw, that could be a wear issue but I have never run into the same situation that I recall.
If you can't find a replacement disc at a reasonable cost I will send you a disc if you'd like, it might take a few days in the mail. I figure I can send the disc in a regular mail envelope, sending a pump takes more paperwork... Send a PM if you are interested.
Mark
Thanks, I'll try and get a PayPal acct set up tonight or tomorrow. I'll let you know
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got 790 today. $25. "ran when the rope broke". we'll see...
Nice one there.If I remember correctly the 790/890's didn't have compression release lever,the 795 & 895 did.Otherwise same 6.3 cube/103cc engine though,just a few years difference between them.got 790 today. $25. "ran when the rope broke". we'll see...
Hi Mark yea there is a gap maybe a millimetre or so on 1 side is that normal? It seems like its suffering a "blowby" of sorts and I have two pumps with the same gap. The sellers on ebay are scared of using cheap postage I guess they have been stung before but 20bux is rather steep for the size and weight. Same cost for a hole pump
So here it is in all it's glory. Finally got it back together and on it's 3rd heat cycle. Hope it holds together.
Brian
Brian
Hi Guys,I bought a 610 back a few weeks ago off Feebay.When I got the saw I put some fuel in the carb to see if it'd fire,& it did.I had a lot of little stuff to do to it - helcoils for the recoil,rebuild the carb,etc.I was getting ready to do the helicoils when I found that the saw wouldn't turn over completely anymore.It'd get to about TDC & then lock up.I tore the saw down to almost bare bones,I didn't pull the engine down - it started getting late.Any ideas as to why the engine suddenly won't turn over completely anymore?
Ed
Ed
Im a newb but you gota get it apart to find what is stopping it. It could be a broken ring stuck in a port it could be a lump of carbon or spat a bearing even. Its only a 610 there comman as a rat in a cowshed so buy anouther couple and use the bits n make a runner. It could even be a washer stuck on the flywheel magnet. A few spares is handy if your going to run a 610. very reliable saw but the ignitions can fail with heat and the oilers can give trubble from what I've learnt. I dont own 1 yet just waiting for a nicer one to show up. There not really worth spending much on so if the p/c is munted put it in the corner and find anouther one and call it parts.
Nice old saw Brian. Whats going on with the bar?
Hi Ed,
Pull the starter cover and turn the crank over until it stops and see where the piston is in the stroke. That might help point to one of the defects that Jethro 21 pointed out.
Pulling the muffler to see if a broken piston ring is the culprit or maybe the module lamination is rubbing on the flywheel etc. Try with the spark plug out as well.
That was me painting out another company's name on it...lol
Ed, Have you taken the spark plug out and see if it turns over then. Could be hydro locking or something in the cylinder. The 610 is a great saw and should give you many years of service.
Brian
Ed, Have you taken the spark plug out and see if it turns over then. Could be hydro locking or something in the cylinder. The 610 is a great saw and should give you many years of service.
Brian
Ed - Is it a mechanical hard stop, or is it more like excessive compression? The 600 Series saws were particularly prone to bar oil seeping into the crankcase so it may be a simple matter of removing the spark plug and spinning it over to clear the cylinder.
Mark
Mark
yep. no decomp. fixed rope & spring to find no fire. guess I be filin points tomorrow...
in pretty nice shape, lotta comp. mc carb.
I don't think that a 610 has points.
Brian
Brian
nope its ''solid state'' CDI electronic ignition,even the first ones introduced in 1978
How bad is the vibration on the power Mac 6? Wondering how it compares to a 10-10 in that respect. I would like to get one but wouldn't be able to use it if the vibes are extremely high.
Certainly a lot less vibration than a 10-10, but being a top handle saw, it take a bit more effort to push it through the larger cuts.
Mark
Mark
Thanks Mark. I've read good things about them on here.
The one I'm looking at has the "ram's horn" type front handle bar. Any major diff between that and the other models?
