McCulloch Chain Saws

Rugged made
Wesspur
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McCullochKid said:
I have an update! Some good and bad news.
The good news is, I got the 10-10A running. My second carb kit doesn't arrive until monday, but while I'm waiting, I got thinking today and decided to pull off the carb from one of the other 10-10 saws that also uses an SDC and inspect it.
I noticed right away that the carb didn't noticeably smell like bad old gas, so I carefully took the cover off the diaphragm side and felt that it still appeared to be relatively soft and supple.
At that point I figured I had nothing to lose, so I stuck it on the saw I've been working on, got everything connected in(used the heat gun and needle nose plier trick for the fuel line), filled the tank, primed it a little, and a few pulls later it roared into life with a triumphant cloud of white smoke before settling down into a steady idle. The automatic and manual oil pump works great. Feels good.

After that I got the brand new bar and chain that I bought for the saw on, which was trickier to do than I anticipated, followed by taking it out to a big downed alder for some test cuts.
I thought it cut wonderfully, these old saws are no joke. My >>>limited
The bad:
I noticed right away that my cuts are curving off to the right, the saw also has a tendency to rattle/chatter a bit when this is happening once it's about halfway into the log. The bar is new, so I know it's not worn out, and I made sure to match the gauge of the chain with the bar. The chain is facing the correct direction. The chain was admittedly fresh out of the box. I don't know how sharp chains generally are new from the box, but I wanted to get a feel for how it cut as-is before I start attempting to learn the art of sharpening myself. I realize that this could very well be the source of the problem right there, but I'd like to hear other thoughts and advice before I proceed.

Second, I noticed that after I had gotten the bar and chain on and went to put the clutch cover/chain brake back on, that it would appear the rim of the clutch drum or something has been grinding into the clutch cover at some point in the saws past. See pics:
View attachment 850229
View attachment 850230
I couldn't figure out why it might have been doing this, so instead of potentially making things worse I decided to use the older style, no brake clutch cover off of one of the other saws for now.
By the way, using a saw without a chain brake for the first time amazed me at how safe having one makes you feel, which is probably a bad thing. I was extra alert and cautious when I was making my test cuts.

Also, how do you find the sweet spot for a carb? When I swapped the carb over I left the adjustments the way they were, but I'm really curious how one knows when everything is just right. When it's too low or too high, or how you know if it's running lean or rich, etc...
Please forgive my inexperience when it comes to this area of saw tuning/maintenance. I might have some bucking experience, but these things like sharpening and carb tuning are all new territory to me.

I've really appreciated the helpful and kind comments and advice from everyone so far. Thanks!
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Make sure the bar is flush against the saw. A little debris between the bar and saw can make it cut crooked

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Super 250, 250, 1-51, 380 parts interchange.

I have acquired various front tank 80-87cc McCulloch parts saw and a number of them are near complete so I am keen on getting a couple going to go with the 3-10e, 2-10 automatic, 250 and Super 250 that I have already got going. For the remaining saws I will need some bearings, rings and seals. The saws I have are 1-51, 380, 250 and Super 250 with doubles of some. Across the models which share the same rings, bearings and seals? I know some part numbers have been listed here before as well as some sellers, but if someone could assist me further with any details as well as an online seller who will have all the bits would be great. I am in Australia so postage kills me, hence wanting to buy it all at once. I would like to have parts here before pulling the saws down as I hate leaving stuff a part. For one of the saws I would like to build a "mini hotsaw" and a MC-49e lookalike powered saw, but some standard parts would be a start. Thanks in advance!
 
svk said:
This is the cap I have on the 35 and it pees out the top.
Click to expand...
We will need to compare notes on Mini Macs, I just acquired a MM30 that looks like the one you just found but i think the wrap handle was painted black... Is yours bare metal?
 

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svk said:
I believe that was Mac’s attempt at textured grip? Lol
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It's "textured" alright, I can see someone's fingerprints molded into it, haha. The handle looks like trash, I will definitely strip the black paint. I also need to determine if the bar was painted at some point.

If there's one thing I hate, it's sh---y paintjobs on saws with a rattle can .
 
matt_lamb_160 said:
Super 250, 250, 1-51, 380 parts interchange.

I have acquired various front tank 80-87cc McCulloch parts saw and a number of them are near complete so I am keen on getting a couple going to go with the 3-10e, 2-10 automatic, 250 and Super 250 that I have already got going. For the remaining saws I will need some bearings, rings and seals. The saws I have are 1-51, 380, 250 and Super 250 with doubles of some. Across the models which share the same rings, bearings and seals? I know some part numbers have been listed here before as well as some sellers, but if someone could assist me further with any details as well as an online seller who will have all the bits would be great. I am in Australia so postage kills me, hence wanting to buy it all at once. I would like to have parts here before pulling the saws down as I hate leaving stuff a part. For one of the saws I would like to build a "mini hotsaw" and a MC-49e lookalike powered saw, but some standard parts would be a start. Thanks in advance!
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This publication may help somewhat. The file is 9MB for some reason and too large to attach here, but you should be able to download it from this link.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/19M5rqwm9ls8VeMgJ3qnhoHu44zLwbbiI/view?usp=sharing
It's organized by ascending part number. If you've already obtained IPLs somewhere it will be a simple matter of cross-referencing for commonality and hoping McCulloch's publications folks were accurate in their transcription of the information. Finding all your parts from a single source may be a challenge, but @heimannm and Bob Johnson in NY (607-638-9297) would certainly be good places to start if your regional resources are limited.
 
PogoInTheWoods said:
This publication may help somewhat. The file is 9MB for some reason and too large to attach here, but you should be able to download it from this link.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/19M5rqwm9ls8VeMgJ3qnhoHu44zLwbbiI/view?usp=sharing
It's organized by ascending part number. If you've already obtained IPLs somewhere it will be a simple matter of cross-referencing for commonality and hoping McCulloch's publications folks were accurate in their transcription of the information. Finding all your parts from a single source may be a challenge, but @heimannm and Bob Johnson in NY (607-638-9297) would certainly be good places to start if your regional resources are limited.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the help. I will have a look at the attachment.
 
Super 250 seals
On this site it was mentioned that for a Super 250:
Flywheel side seal is MCCulloch number 50663. The clutch side seal is McCulloch number 104432.

From a kart forum I found equivalent SKF (not double lip) and Timken numbers:
SKF, Timken, McCulloch: Application
6763, 474261, 50663: All flywheel except Mc10
6816, 471553, 104432: 49MC, 91MC, 92-93-101 pto Mc10 mag/pto
7414, 254270, 104128, Mc5-9, 49, 90-91 pto

I found this on another saw forum (CR = Chicago Rawhide now part of SKF):
"-PTO side seal for ball bearing saws: 104432. SKF 6640. CR/SKF 6816. These would be the 87-103cc saws in the series. They have ball bearings on both ends of the crank."
" -PTO side seal for needle bearing saws: 104128. SKF 7414. These would be the non-Super 250, the 200, the 1-40 series, and most if not all of the other 80.5cc saws in the series. "
 
Thanks @svk for the sweet Power Match bar!!! I love the old school look! It looks great on the PM700!!
1d46c9e02baa8345eb5554328bad4611.jpg


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Picked these up a few days ago for $20, a Mini Mac 30 and a Mac 160S. The guy actually just threw in the 160 for free. The 160 is partially canabalized but has good parts. The MM 30 is very clean and appears to have extremely little use. He said the MM30 had spark and compression ( compression is definitely good) but wasn't pumping gas.

Once i got home i took the bar and chain off the 30 to start inspecting it...f'in crank bearings are shot, way too much radial play. I'm at a loss of how the crank bearings are so worn when the rest of the saw is so clean. My only guess is some idiot ran the chain far too tight?? I'd estimate at least .010"-.020" of radial play on the clutch bearing. The MM30 even has the original McCulloch branded chain on it!

On the bright side, I have a real solid engine from a Mini Mac 35 that needs a home, and now I have the rest of a saw to house it.

The 160S i'll keep around for parts....it does have a nice 16" bar on it
 

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MacAttack said:
Picked these up a few days ago for $20, a Mini Mac 30 and a Mac 160S. The guy actually just threw in the 160 for free. The 160 is partially canabalized but has good parts. The MM 30 is very clean and appears to have extremely little use. He said the MM30 had spark and compression ( compression is definitely good) but wasn't pumping gas.

Once i got home i took the bar and chain off the 30 to start inspecting it...f'in crank bearings are shot, way too much radial play. I'm at a loss of how the crank bearings are so worn when the rest of the saw is so clean. My only guess is some idiot ran the chain far too tight?? I'd estimate at least .010"-.020" of radial play on the clutch bearing. The MM30 even has the original McCulloch branded chain on it!

On the bright side, I have a real solid engine from a Mini Mac 35 that needs a home, and now I have the rest of a saw to house it.

The 160S i'll keep around for parts....it does have a nice 16" bar on it
Click to expand...
Wow that’s extremely mint. I’m surprised that it could have worn out with such little use but you never know people!
 
svk said:
Wow that’s extremely mint. I’m surprised that it could have worn out with such little use but you never know people!
Click to expand...
Exactly, I don't think it was due to ingesting dirt or loss of lubrication because the top end seems perfect.

My guess is something weird happened, but I need to disassemble it further to see what I'm dealing with. Have you seen a tight chain ruin crank bearings?
 
MacAttack said:
Exactly, I don't think it was due to ingesting dirt or loss of lubrication because the top end seems perfect.

My guess is something weird happened, but I need to disassemble it further to see what I'm dealing with. Have you seen a tight chain ruin crank bearings?
Click to expand...
I personally have never seen it. Granted I don’t work on many saws that were plumb worn out either. A few of the longer term guys on here talk about it.

I guess the good news is you’ve got that Mac 35 engine to slap in there and you’ll have a beautiful runner.
 

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