10-24 x 2-1/4" I believe, you probably need to buy 2-1/2" and cut it down. Fillister head is preferable.
Mark
Mark
McCulloch Chain Saws
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Thank you gentlemen.
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Did McCulloch use primarily SAE hardware throughout production? They seem to use a lot of 10-24, 10-32, and 12-24 screws.
Also, unless I'm mistaken, I'd swear some Macs have a mix of metric and SAE on the flywheel nut and the clutch nut.
Also, unless I'm mistaken, I'd swear some Macs have a mix of metric and SAE on the flywheel nut and the clutch nut.
All of mine are SAE but Jethro might be able to shed some light on the International saws.
The 800 has metric bar nuts. The DE80 has metric bar nuts and intake screws. I believe all else is S.A.E.
Ron
Ron
Yup I found out the hard way about the bar nuts. I dropped 1 off the 800 and shrugged the shoulders aww well ill borrow this here 7-10 nut aaaaand nope what the heck head scratch and headed back and groveled around in the chips and managed to find it haha. Stole the 44 off the 7-10 that day though. Still wearing it now actually.
As for international all mine appear to be states saws all the labels say that anyway. I have a poulan thats from Canada. It seems we were such a small market we just got stuff straight from the factory and this seems to apply to all sorts even cars. Eg Australia got Japanese cars assembled there to Australia spec meanwhile we got direct Japanese domestic cars and were flasher models.
Anyway enough waffling haha its hard to get screws here and they cost. When I walk into the shop n say can i please have a 10-24 they scratch there head. 1 guy at one shop sees me a scoots away as he knows I'm after some obscure thing hahaha he must have a bald patch from the head scratching.
A guy a while back was on here an aussie chap was restoring a 7-10 for his wall and had done and old stihl oops I mean off brand
very nicely a powder coater well he stripped down a dead pm60 for its exhaust and was very kind he sent me all the screws and some other bits. Faaaar out give a man a gift of life wow I still dig screws out of that box. Thank you again if your reading.
My 800 has metric starter screws but I did that
As for international all mine appear to be states saws all the labels say that anyway. I have a poulan thats from Canada. It seems we were such a small market we just got stuff straight from the factory and this seems to apply to all sorts even cars. Eg Australia got Japanese cars assembled there to Australia spec meanwhile we got direct Japanese domestic cars and were flasher models.
Anyway enough waffling haha its hard to get screws here and they cost. When I walk into the shop n say can i please have a 10-24 they scratch there head. 1 guy at one shop sees me a scoots away as he knows I'm after some obscure thing hahaha he must have a bald patch from the head scratching.
A guy a while back was on here an aussie chap was restoring a 7-10 for his wall and had done and old stihl oops I mean off brand
very nicely a powder coater well he stripped down a dead pm60 for its exhaust and was very kind he sent me all the screws and some other bits. Faaaar out give a man a gift of life wow I still dig screws out of that box. Thank you again if your reading.My 800 has metric starter screws but I did that
Hey Ron I got that little FJ45 running it needs a little 10 series on the back
Fantastic little toy really well built highly impressed
it needs a little 10 series on the back Fantastic little toy really well built highly impressed
If I had a helper like that I would probaly own one too. Come to think up it I have a 10 day old grandson.
Not as cool as yours and only 2wd - my girls and I used to aggravate their mother with this little FJ40:
Ron
Not as cool as yours and only 2wd - my girls and I used to aggravate their mother with this little FJ40:
Ron
Wow 10 days hope all is going well.
Ahh the classic Nikko good times. They were good old toys and still are now
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Had the SP81, the PM700, and the 1-52 out making some chips today.
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Awesome. I wish I had an abundance of large logs like thatHad the SP81, the PM700, and the 1-52 out making some chips today.
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Mark
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Time to play good news/bad news (gn/bn) !
gn: got a 7-10 and 10-10 over the weekend (mostly focused on 7-10, no tag unfortunately)
bn: 7-10 doesn't pull over and 10-10 appears to be scored up (somewhat expected on both)
gn: 7-10 seems to be in decent overall shape
bn: has some white death starting to creep in, peek down carb hole looks kinda crusty
gn: everything moves fine, it was just the pull start shaft that was locked up!
LOL ok enough nonsense because I have questions. Fortunately, despite looking nasty, it seems to be in good shape, however...
More than coincidence that the major issues seem to be on the PTO side(?), except for the ignition stuff of course.
The strangest part is the scuffs on the crank counterweight and housing. So before putting this back together I'm trying to figure out what happened (and open to suggestions). At first I thought it was just left for dead after the ignition wires melted and grounded out, but the PTO seal and slightly melted points box, along with the scuffs have me wondering what's really going on. Cylinder and piston look good, minimal carbon, no scoring to speak of, it doesn't appear that anyone was in there as it had what appeared to be the factory silicon sealant on the halves.
Mag bearing not pressed on all the way and offset the crank a hair? I've never had to remove/replace one, but I assume there is a shoulder or something on the crank that the bearing stops on? Or maybe someone was just a gorilla with this thing and then walked away after overworking it and melting the ignition wires? I'd be surprised if someone could wrench on it enough to pull the crank into the case though... Dropped on the PTO side while running and the counterweight smacked the case on the way by?
gn: got a 7-10 and 10-10 over the weekend (mostly focused on 7-10, no tag unfortunately)
bn: 7-10 doesn't pull over and 10-10 appears to be scored up (somewhat expected on both)
gn: 7-10 seems to be in decent overall shape
bn: has some white death starting to creep in, peek down carb hole looks kinda crusty
gn: everything moves fine, it was just the pull start shaft that was locked up!
LOL ok enough nonsense because I have questions. Fortunately, despite looking nasty, it seems to be in good shape, however...
- The PTO seal looks kinda roached/cooked, whereas the mag seal seems to be in great condition, bearings look good
- Both rings were stuck on one side, but in good shape otherwise and move freely now (need to clean the grooves) - not sure if this is indicative of a larger issue, but I want to say they were stuck on the PTO side
- Scuffs internally on the PTO side as well (more on that below)
- Ignition wires were melted, as was a spot on the back of the points box.
More than coincidence that the major issues seem to be on the PTO side(?), except for the ignition stuff of course.
The strangest part is the scuffs on the crank counterweight and housing. So before putting this back together I'm trying to figure out what happened (and open to suggestions). At first I thought it was just left for dead after the ignition wires melted and grounded out, but the PTO seal and slightly melted points box, along with the scuffs have me wondering what's really going on. Cylinder and piston look good, minimal carbon, no scoring to speak of, it doesn't appear that anyone was in there as it had what appeared to be the factory silicon sealant on the halves.
Mag bearing not pressed on all the way and offset the crank a hair? I've never had to remove/replace one, but I assume there is a shoulder or something on the crank that the bearing stops on? Or maybe someone was just a gorilla with this thing and then walked away after overworking it and melting the ignition wires? I'd be surprised if someone could wrench on it enough to pull the crank into the case though... Dropped on the PTO side while running and the counterweight smacked the case on the way by?
Well I think the good news of the good 7-10 cylinder definitely trumps all the bad news
Back to post 38,083 - later saws like the 300 Series, 600 Series, and even some late models of the Mini Mac's had a mix of SAE and metric. The 600 Series use some very special fasteners, 10 mm across the flats and 10-24 thread for the mufflers...and 12-24 for the bar adjust screw...4 mm for the recoil starter and oil pump, 5 mm oval head for the flywheel cover, 5mm pan head for the skid plate and cylinder shroud, 5mm hex head for the airbox, 12-24 for the crankcase, but some oddball 6 mm pitch for the oil tank. Some bar nuts on late model Mini Mac saws are also an oddball 6 mm pitch.
Mark
Mark
Theres dents on that counter weight of the crank shaft , my guess is someone else has been in that saw. At the very least maybe disassembled it and replaced the oil tank possibly. It would take a pretty good wack with a hard object to put a dent or nick in that counter weight, if the saw had a bearing failure in the past and ingested some metal into the crankcase to be beaten around for a minute its still been apart to remove the material.
Thanks for reminding me not to bother with a 600 series
id be stripping threads left right and center. At least with a 10 series if it fits its probably the right 1 or too short or long
Good eye! I was just out messing with this after bead blasting some of the corrosion off various pull start pieces and was looking at this exact thing. Your theory would explain why the mag bearing and seal are in such good shape and the PTO seal is shot to s**t. e.g. the mag side failed and was replaced, but chunked out in the bottom end when it failed. That counter is no joke, that's some super hard stuff, and like you said it would take a lot to ding it up.
I loosely put the halves back together with the crank, and there's no way the counter just randomly swiped the case. I couldn't even get it close while having it apart and trying to force it to touch. Looks like I'll just put her back together and see how it acts. After replacing the PTO seal...
I did confirm that the mag bearing is seated all the way down the crank too.Definitely - I've got a couple here that are in bad shape cylinder wise, so I'm happy to see one that survives now and then. That chrome plating is no joke! Another I'm rebuilding had a fragged piston and rings, and not a scratch on the cylinder. Amazing.
It seems like every Mac I work on I'm switching back and forth between SAE and metric sockets... now it makes a little more sense. The only thing I really hate is trying to figure out if an allen head is SAE or Metric, trial and error until you find one that feels right...
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